scooterfree62

Yes I did check the air intake duct again the connections they install correctly and clamps are tight. I did change the air filter earlier this fall and I did notice the tube from the air box to the secondary air pump wasn't connected. unfiltered air was going into the engine.

I have some new spark plugs I was going to install too. just haven't yet and was going to wait for warmer weather.

I did take a video of measuring block 32 and 33 I will see if I can down load it on here. if you like to see the real time operation of them.

I did spray some starting fluid all around the intake gasket areas and air intake duct connections with no increase of engine RPM"s. Other than the area which was a very very little lowering of RPM's drivers side where intake mounts to the head area. Not sure with this direct injection system how the starting fluid would make the engine run.

I was running out of daylight to clean the map sensor I will try this weekend and double checking the air tube ducts connections and clamps once again when I reinstall it.

I also check oil fill cap and oil dip stick and all ok.

I will run some fuel cleaner though it as well.

I did happened to talk with the previous owner about the car. Because he had the original wheels that I wanted. but it was in the late summer and didn't have the issues with the car at that point. but he did say he had put a lot of money in the car and he did mention he had the injectors replaced. By a independent shop but I didn't ask him why. I will see if I can find his number and see if can remember what else was replaced and what was the problem in the first place.

scooterfree62

Here is how the engine acts on starting a cold engine 26 degrees
and also Measuring blocks 32 & 33

https://www.dropbox.com/s/25e632oi5i...15110.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1hu96spkyq...21324.mp4?dl=0

scooterfree62

Update with issues with the car. I removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it ETC. also checked the intake piping and clamps for any issues for vacuum leaks couldn't find any.

the next cold day I went to start temp around 15 degrees and it started and continued to run. ran a little rough for about 3-5 seconds then continued with the warm up cycle. So the MAF sensor is the issue at the moment. I did start it once again with temps around the same as before and started as before.

After the engine was at operating temps. I went through all the basic functions which all passed but a few.

One: was the kick down switch didn't show any continuity when pressed. Hadn't had the chance to remove the switch and test it with a multi meter

Two: Fuel injection (fuel pump adaptation) if I did this when engine wasn't warmed up completely it would pass the test. If It was warm it wouldn't pass the test.

Three: Fuel injection (Fuel supply system) when I did this test the both values would go to 25 and stay there and not move and the test would fail.

The two above tests are they suppose to be done with engine running at a idle?

Four: wouldn't pass the readiness code (automatic End of the line test)

I have ordered a new MAF sensor will replace. there was a difference in ambient temp and MAF sensor temp before I started the engine around 15 degrees.

I did mentioned when I replaced the air filter this summer I had found a hose had come off that connects to center of the bottom part of the air filter housing. and goes to the secondary air pump? Which was allowing unfiltered air into the engine and across the MAF sensor and air pump system too. Not sure if this could be causing some issues too.