ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Do you have a limit on how much money to throw after bad money? I say, just drive the car until it's dead, then get a new transmission. Look at your options right now, $5k doesn't even guarantee anything.

tozoM8 is transmission expert in D2 forum I believe.


Cheers,

Louis

2k6blacka8

Well I don't see the point throwing 5k at one time to any car. That's a down payment or just a good used car. Heck even over 1200 won't guarantee anything let alone 5k. The damn dealer is just money hungry. I will just take it to my trans shop. I just called them and they know me and he thinks it might be a possible bad shift solenoid. I'm not putting 1200 on something that might not fix it. I'll take it there and see what they think. Theyre shop is state of the art and a very good reputation and family owned. I should've went there originally but I had other stuff for the dealer to look at. That's why I call them stealer ships.

MP4.2+6.0

But for now just to say I think you are wasting money and some time without running down some other scenarios. My prior advice was seemingly ignored in various regards, but you might want to read it again and then ask me when you find what's relevant. Hint: it's not all about the tranny.

I think you/dealer are also headed down the wrong path (another probable waste of money) on the "blue fluid" idea. Do yourself a favor there and get the original TSB for it that discusses the hoot and the shift issue at much higher gears. Same for Jag and BMW TSB's as I recall; the Audi one has the most detail. Tozo definitely knows D2's/the 5HP24A. The six speed is a pretty different animal AFAIK--and not the lemon the five speed proved to be--and I don't know what his experience or interest is with them. Some of the non-tranny related learning still applies.

2k6blacka8

Well I was able to dig up the estimate that the service advisor emailed me. Here it is:


Our technicians recommend the following services for your vehicle.
Recommended Services
Original Customer Requests Status Cost Declined Approved
A. CUSTOMER STATES TRANSMISSION SHIFTS
HARD IN LOW GEARS WHEN COLD $0.00 X
ADAPTATION DRIVE (SHIFTING HARD IN LOW
GEARS) $79.95 X
TCM SOFTWARE UPDATE, FLUID AND FILTER
CHANGE (SHIFTING HARD) $1,255.84
REPLACE MECHATRONICS UNIT (IF STILL
SHIFTING HARD) $4,026.75
B. WILL PICK UP LOANER THURSDAY NIGHT $0.00 X
C. AUDI MULTI-POINT VEHICLE INSPECTION $0.00 X
Subtotal $5,362.54 $79.95
Totals, Taxes and Fees Cost Declined Approved
Estimate Subtotal $5,362.54 $0.00 $79.95
Shop Supplies $10.00
Sales Tax $348.57
Estimate Total $5,721.11

I know it's BS. These are the exact charges. I can buy 5-7 cars for $5700. I know you guys will comment about this one lol.

TSHong

I would not do either one of those repairs. The blue fluid will not do anything for you. For the total price of that estimate, you can get an quality reman transmission. My advise is to drive it. Mine took a while but it adapted back. You are going through exactly what I went through last year.

2k6blacka8

Yea probably not. I don't want to throw away money on something that probably won't work. It bothers me quite a bit. I'm so used to smooth shifting on this tranny. This stuff is getting old. Not supposed to be like this on a 70K+ car new. I don't know what I'm going to do.

MP4.2+6.0

Some obvious stuff has now been done/tried/checked. As next ideas without spending a mint consider:

1. Go to your tranny shop and have them do a REGULAR fluid change using the OE (or ZF6) gold stuff. Just the regular, nothing super big bucks, exotic, "just as good as," "better than", etc. It won't cost a lot big picture, doesn't need the level of flushing a change to "blue" does, fits ZF recommended maintenance for "severe duty" anyway, reasonable by 10 years out certainly, etc. I would also be doing this (and maybe a filter change), long before replacing the valve body unit. And BTW if you ever went there, you can probably get the valve body component rebuilt through a ZF shop for much less; cost me about $500 to get the assembly rebuilt (which I pulled) when I did my 5 speed valve body 6 or 7 years ago.

2. Don't scope lock that it's just the tranny as I suggested before. In particular look hard at the MAF as one of the other overlapping areas. Run the measuring blocks on it with VAG COM by recording the output while in motion. If it comes up short, the MAF is faulty--should be at least 80% of rated HP measured in grams/second of flow as the rule of thumb (e.g. a 300HP motor should be 240+ g/s peak flow, typically up near the 1-2 and 2-3 shift points). Or frankly, just consider replacing it. From another recent post/reply, MAF's have apparently fallen further in price if shopped carefully. Over time they can foul some anyway and then it throws off readings. BTDT on my C5 4.2 where the tranny shifting got really bad with hard clunks and stuff. Part of it was a bad MAF, which I also confirmed by the VAG COM readings. The MAF couples tightly with all of the ECU, TCU and throttle. so it can lead to ripple effects like you may be seeing elsewhere in the drivetrain.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

1. Never buy any Audi Quattro with transmission fluid replaced one time or another, especially just before selling the car.
2. Avoid buying cars from Audi Forum enthusiasts especially the ones that have VCDS... :-)

Cheers,

Louis

2k6blacka8

Well I just got a call from my transmission shop and did a diagnostics on it(free on their part) and they told me that the shift solenoids are commanding like they should and of course no codes so they told me for sure I have something going on mechanically in that tranny. They have a great reputation and they know their stuff. At least they did not take it apart and try to charge me. They are very honest unlike other tranny shops in my area. I asked them how much I owed them for diagnostic with the scanner and they simply told me nothing. I would have gave them something for their time.

The bottom line is, it will need a transmission and I know the guy pretty good and he wouldn't steer me wrong. To be honest, I'd rather take a 2K hit dumping it than putting 5K into it. So I pretty much lost my patience with this car. I don't want to put anymore money in it. There is no reason to.

mishar

And what about three reasonable and low cost advises you got here: to update software, to simply replace ATF, or/and to drive it as is, giving it some time to adapt itself?