2 stupid Qs related to Fuel Filter replacement on A8, 4.2 FSI (BVJ), 2007
#1
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2 stupid Qs related to Fuel Filter replacement on A8, 4.2 FSI (BVJ), 2007
Good morning everyone!
I have few stupid questions. I hope someone put some light on each of my Q.
1.I bought the MANN fuel filter for my car from the web page for $36 + tax (I have Audi A8, FSI 4.2, BVJ, 2007). Fuel filter has pressure regulator inside and has one input and 2 outputs (I assume input from fuel pump + return on one side and the output to the engine on other side). It happened I was @ Audi dealership and they told me I absolutely cannot install it as to get the right filter they need to know VIN number. They want to sell it to me for $46. Can someone confirm there is a variation of fuel filters for 4.2 FSI BVJ engine? I thought it is only one.
2.The second Q is more theoretical. I do not have the Bentley, so I assume first I need to disconnect the final output pipe (at this moment the gas will start leaking… first under pressure then with no pressure), then disconnect input and return and then connect the final output and the other two. The question is how can I make sure the air from the system will go away? I looked at ETKA and it does not look like there is a return house from the engine! That’s mean the air from the Filter will be in the pipe! Do I just start the engine hoping it will go through the injection? Do you think any errors will appear in the car after that process (like miss fire and etc)? Can someone explain the process?
Thanks a lot everyone!
I have few stupid questions. I hope someone put some light on each of my Q.
1.I bought the MANN fuel filter for my car from the web page for $36 + tax (I have Audi A8, FSI 4.2, BVJ, 2007). Fuel filter has pressure regulator inside and has one input and 2 outputs (I assume input from fuel pump + return on one side and the output to the engine on other side). It happened I was @ Audi dealership and they told me I absolutely cannot install it as to get the right filter they need to know VIN number. They want to sell it to me for $46. Can someone confirm there is a variation of fuel filters for 4.2 FSI BVJ engine? I thought it is only one.
2.The second Q is more theoretical. I do not have the Bentley, so I assume first I need to disconnect the final output pipe (at this moment the gas will start leaking… first under pressure then with no pressure), then disconnect input and return and then connect the final output and the other two. The question is how can I make sure the air from the system will go away? I looked at ETKA and it does not look like there is a return house from the engine! That’s mean the air from the Filter will be in the pipe! Do I just start the engine hoping it will go through the injection? Do you think any errors will appear in the car after that process (like miss fire and etc)? Can someone explain the process?
Thanks a lot everyone!
#2
AudiWorld Super User
If they do not know your VIN how do they know your filter is not right?
Actually there are two filters. One you bought has three pipes, pressure regulator and it is more expensive. The other has two pipes and it is cheaper (~$20). You actually need the VIN, or have to take a peek under the cover in front your right rear wheel in order to know which one you need.
Procedure wise, you are overthinking it. Disconnect hoses in any order you want. Be prepared for a leak. Longer your engine was off less leak you get. Problem is with that bolt and the plastic bracket (if it is plastic). Nut is inaccessible and tend to rotate with the bolt. The only way, if that happens, is cutting it and it is not easy. Don'r worry about the air. It will find it's way out trough the return hose. Just your first cranking will be a bit longer.
Actually there are two filters. One you bought has three pipes, pressure regulator and it is more expensive. The other has two pipes and it is cheaper (~$20). You actually need the VIN, or have to take a peek under the cover in front your right rear wheel in order to know which one you need.
Procedure wise, you are overthinking it. Disconnect hoses in any order you want. Be prepared for a leak. Longer your engine was off less leak you get. Problem is with that bolt and the plastic bracket (if it is plastic). Nut is inaccessible and tend to rotate with the bolt. The only way, if that happens, is cutting it and it is not easy. Don'r worry about the air. It will find it's way out trough the return hose. Just your first cranking will be a bit longer.
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