Andyray

Hello, wanted to get some opinions on this.

Last week I hit "down" on my front drivers side window, and nothing happened. So it's stuck in the "up" position. (luckily)

When I hit "up", I can hear a click so there are signals getting to the motor. Also the switches are lighting up fine so they're getting power. But when I hit down, I hear nothing.

I took the door panel off, and pulled the motor away from the regulator. The motor works great and the gear turns when I hit "up", but when I hit "down" I hear a little click but nothing happens.

I'm thinking this is a bad window motor? Is there any easy way to rule out the switch, and check the regulator?

Thanks!

mishar

VCDS scan is the way.

MP4.2+6.0

A hunch is the switch, but only a hunch. Driver's door is hardest, since unlike the others you have only one switch point instead of both driver's switch set and the local door.

But wait...there effectively can be another "switch." Try using the remote up feature (if programmed/enabled) with your key fob. Hold the remote buttons and see if it goes up and down that way. If so, std. automotive diagnostics say its the switch. If it still acts the same as when you use the switch, probably the motor unit. Back on D2/C5 when Audis still had a "normal" key lock, you could do it with the lock cylinder even if the remotes weren't enabled for it via VCDS. Now basically impossible to get the key in the angled lock and twist it without pulling door handle open.

Your description is enough BTW to rule out generally broken window guides. When those broke on older Audis the window would tend to **** to one side (usually when going up) and then bind.

Andyray

Thanks guys!

I think the lesson here is I need to accelerate a VCDS purchase, was sort of holding out on that one until I needed it.

I'll try the key fob trick, although I don't think it is currently enabled. Will do some searching to see if I can enable without VCDS.

03_AR_CO

Cannot be enabled without VCDS, also search for the how to program the window open and close with key fob. Its a little involved and there are multiple modules to program.

Andyray

Got VCDS in the mail today....this thing is cool.

Fault that keeps coming back after it's cleared:

02111 - Motor for Window Regulator
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 0
Reset counter: 92
Mileage: 148352 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.20
Time: 22:33:08

Going to read a bit more since VCDS is new to me but I'm assuming if it says it's the motor it's the motor.

Question -- the drivers side window motor is part #4E1959801F. That part supercedes the 4E1959801B, 4E1959801C, etc. Can I use a used B or C motor? Probably end up ordering new, but I think I can source a used B or C part for $50 which is very attractive compared to the $350ish cost for a new one....

MP4.2+6.0

I can't be sure on the fault without searching it directly on line, which you can of course just do yourself. Notice it says "fault in circuit," not specifically fault in motor. See if Googling that code invariably points to motor.


Meantime, since you now have the tool, program the key fob so you can raise the windows (and close the sunroof) by holding down lock button. Same for opening if you want. Now use the remote and see if all four windows go up, or only three. Then you will know definitively that it isn't in switch or other wiring which are part of the "circuit."

Not sure on part #'s, but a fair guess is the 2009's used the final rev or so. If my car was early, I suppose, but not so much on a late build one, especially the most used window in the car.

Andyray

Thanks guys -- had trouble configuring the windows on the remote, but found the "output testing" for the drivers door which triggers the window motor from VCDS. Same behavior as with the switch, so now I know it's the motor.

Now just to try and find a deal on one... seems like $350ish is the going price for a new one.