2009 Audi A8 Battery replacement questions
#12
AudiWorld Member
My experience
1: Using VCDS - Audi A8 (4E) Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki
Most usually use increment the serial # by one if you aren't using an OEM battery.
2: no, I think you basically want to minimize the draw from the battery when you initially connect, but from my experience, the car will basically "wake up" once you connect a good battery, so expect a slight spark.
3: I don't have a vent hose on my battery
4: If you have to charge, remember to either charge the battery out of the vehicle or make sure to use the negative post above battery instead of the post on the battery.
Most usually use increment the serial # by one if you aren't using an OEM battery.
2: no, I think you basically want to minimize the draw from the battery when you initially connect, but from my experience, the car will basically "wake up" once you connect a good battery, so expect a slight spark.
3: I don't have a vent hose on my battery
4: If you have to charge, remember to either charge the battery out of the vehicle or make sure to use the negative post above battery instead of the post on the battery.
Battery is completely dead
Do you recommend the ones they have at Pep Boys?
Removal questions:
1In regards to coding the battery management control unit: how is this done?Does it have to be completed by dealer? Can it be done on your own or at PEP BOYS and then you install yourself?
2In the manual it states: when installing the battery make sure the ignition and all electrical consumers are turned off." The battery is completely dead so should not have to worry about this correct?
3 What is the ventilation hose and how does it connect?
4 Any other important notes to keep in mind when replacing the battery?
Cheers and thanks!
Audi-os82
Do you recommend the ones they have at Pep Boys?
Removal questions:
1In regards to coding the battery management control unit: how is this done?Does it have to be completed by dealer? Can it be done on your own or at PEP BOYS and then you install yourself?
2In the manual it states: when installing the battery make sure the ignition and all electrical consumers are turned off." The battery is completely dead so should not have to worry about this correct?
3 What is the ventilation hose and how does it connect?
4 Any other important notes to keep in mind when replacing the battery?
Cheers and thanks!
Audi-os82
#13
AudiWorld Super User
The best charging is by connecting to the plus terminal of the battery and to the shiny post above the negative terminal. Unfortunately in the most cases charging the battery won't help on the long run. Regular led/acid batteries (not a deep cycle ones) don't like to be completely discharged. Once that happens they are permanently damaged and it is just a matter of time to the complete failure.
Measuring tension (voltage) means almost nothing. Damaged battery can get above 12V very fast but still has very low capacity. Basically just like a way smaller battery.
Last edited by mishar; 01-24-2015 at 12:53 PM.
#14
AudiWorld Super User
And on vents, it depends and is important
If you used an AGM battery, those typically have no vent by design. If a conventional flooded starter battery--what comes originally in the D3's and is normally cheaper replacement--the vent is very important. It will be there on the one that comes out if it was OE or most replacements. A similar fitting will be on one that goes in if it is the proper size (two different ones/options--both fit) in conventional flooded construction.
If the flooded/non-AGM type, letting acid vapors float around in a quasi sealed space back there--or if acid ever runs out with overcharge and high water level--is not good for the metal to say the least. BTDT on older Audis where they were still under the back seat. Same drill on old Bugs. Far rear of trunk has same basic issues conceptually. Even when they were underhood in the plenum area like my 2000 C5 4.2, they had a vent hose, as does my under plenum Mini. All were std. flooded type. Basically no worries on the typical AGM since those are sealed; on boats sometimes even mounted non-vertically.
If the flooded/non-AGM type, letting acid vapors float around in a quasi sealed space back there--or if acid ever runs out with overcharge and high water level--is not good for the metal to say the least. BTDT on older Audis where they were still under the back seat. Same drill on old Bugs. Far rear of trunk has same basic issues conceptually. Even when they were underhood in the plenum area like my 2000 C5 4.2, they had a vent hose, as does my under plenum Mini. All were std. flooded type. Basically no worries on the typical AGM since those are sealed; on boats sometimes even mounted non-vertically.
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