PapaDeltaAlphaUK

Hi Guys and Gals, does anyone know what type of oil and how much oil I will need to drain down and replace my automatic transmission oil. I am going to drain down, refill with a mixture of oil and seal softner, run it, drain down and replace with fresh oil again.

Thank you for any assistance you can provide

Torsion'sA8

Is there any reason why you want to do that? I highly recommend you don't put any additives in the transmission.

the_duke

Do not put anything but the recommended fluid in your transmission. Most have used factory fluid. Many have used Redline or other trusted brands. Many threads out there on this subject.

mishar

You need 6 liters of Lifeguard6. I wouldn't recommend any additive, unless you know something we don't.

richard-tx

If it was mine, I would take it to the dealer and ask them if they have transmission oil. They will ask for the VIN number of the car. According to the dealer, the correct oil for my car (2006) is dependent on the VIN number as 2006 was a split year. Your car could be as well. They might have to query the transmission via VCDS to be sure which oil you need.

Put the wrong oil in it and all manner of problems can arise.

MP4.2+6.0

Not following actually. On D3, 4.2 is always "Gold" (ZF LifeGuard 6) W12 is always "Blue" to start. If 4.2 tranny TCU was flashed per the TSB and had fluid changed, it then has Blue in it too. I think few actually were, but maybe you are referring to this? Some confusion on D3 S8's, but fill there was apparently Gold there originally. Further confusion in that ZF discontinued Blue (6+), and then it was only sold by them as "Green", aka ZF Lifeguard 8. Further confusion because Lifeguard 8 is used in some Aisin knock offs of six speed found in Q7s and maybe some others, including Q7's with 4.2's. Normally Green/ZF8 is the eight speed fluid, but it also comes up for the Aisin six speeds and when used to supersede Blue.

At highest level, absent specific service info to contrary involving the TSB, any D3 4.2 should use LG6/Gold AFAIK. Other ZF 8 choice comes in from the reflash scenario or if someone just wants to do multi cycle drain and replace as discussed in TSB and then go with what ZF regards as successor to Blue. Also a nuance is found in the later versions of TSB, where is says if you are dealing with the hoot in a W12, then you go the other way from Blue to Gold. Thus, Blue isn't apparently always "better than" or needed, even in esoteric W12.

PapaDeltaAlphaUK

Thanks everyone. Some good info. To answer your questions on why the additive. I The car has don 120k miles and I am the third owner so I have no doubt is has been looked after, last owner towed his caravan to the south of France with it for many years. I have a slight squeek between 3rd and fourth and I suspect it holds onto one of the gears as when driving in sports mode you can sometimes get the feeling the engine has stalled as it changes down and holds onto the 3rd.

MP4.2+6.0

So, from your description, you actually do have the "hoot" per the Audi USA TSB. Symptoms seldom actually fit real TSB, but yours does (3-4). Not the final version of TSB, but link I quickly found. http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/Transmiss...ween%203-4.pdf You are not in U.S. so tranny computer (TCU/TCM) flashing versions are apparently different from some prior posts. Given age of cars now, what some are doing is simply drain and replace using existing fluid spec. That is, just use Gold (ZF6) again. "Blue" (6+) or Green (8) fluid is like twice as expensive as the baseline Gold (6) fluid, and you use a lot if you flush it thoroughly (as much as 19L for 3 x change cycle TSB discusses).

Net, with mileage on yours anyway, I would change fluid and filter. Then I would do at least a second drain of fluid. First drain, pan drop and filter change will get about 60-65% of it out, second one without filter or pulling pan will get another 20-25% incrementally. Forget any additives; just get clean fluid into it, much more so with prior history of pulling a trailer which puts it in the extra duty/severe service category in general. ZF spec. in this case goes from the pretend "lifetime" to around 100K kilometer change interval IIRC.

dvs_dave

+1. Just a fluid (do a double flush) and filter change should sort your issue. Use ZF Lifeguard 6, or one of the cheaper alternatives available these days. Such as Redline D6, Ardeca Matic +Z6, Mercon SP as a few examples, or any product that meets Shell M-1375.4 oil specs.

PapaDeltaAlphaUK

Thank you all again.