A8 Quattro 4.2 V8 (2005) Transmission Oil
07-24-2016, 07:11 AM
#11
+1. Just a fluid (do a double flush) and filter change should sort your issue. Use ZF Lifeguard 6, or one of the cheaper alternatives available these days. Such as Redline D6, Ardeca Matic +Z6, Mercon SP as a few examples, or any product that meets Shell M-1375.4 oil specs.
I'm running Mercon SP on two D3's and an '04 Phaeton. The Phaeton had major torque converter issues so it received an additional bottle of leak sealer (Bar's) and it worked wonders.
07-24-2016, 09:59 AM
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
Phaeton tranny
I used LG 6 in my Audi. But I think other will work. The previous owner of my XJR agreed to have the pan/filter and fluid changed prior to sale.
He told me LG 6 was not available locally and used Pentosin ATF 1. They left it draining overnight and said it took 9.5 quarts to fill back up. I ordered some LG6 to swap back.
The tranny has worked fine for over a year running the ATF 1. I get the feeling that fluid is not so critical. There is no mention of the Shell spec on the Pentosin jugs.
10-06-2016, 05:41 AM
#13
Audiworld Junior Member
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05 A8 Filter/Gasket Kit ?
Looking at changing the trans oil and filter in our 4.2 A8 ( has 170K on original fluid ).Going to use the forum recommended ZF Lifeguard 6 Gold fluid.
Can this be done without dropping any of the exhaust system? And should I buy the factory filter and gasket or purchase one of the Meyle kits I've seen on ebay.
Just changed the spark plugs: as far as I can tell this car had the original NGK branded " AUDI " 4 electrode plugs in it. Car seems to run much better now or is it just me...
Any info apreciated
Can this be done without dropping any of the exhaust system? And should I buy the factory filter and gasket or purchase one of the Meyle kits I've seen on ebay.
Just changed the spark plugs: as far as I can tell this car had the original NGK branded " AUDI " 4 electrode plugs in it. Car seems to run much better now or is it just me...
Any info apreciated
10-06-2016, 06:40 AM
#14
AudiWorld Member
So other than dealing with the chirp/hoot (which is kind of annoying), is there any technical reason to change the fluid, is the chirp causing any issues inside? The dealer quoted me an exorbitant amount to change the fluid per the TSB, but told me it is a "sealed system" and recommended against it.
10-06-2016, 06:53 AM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Yes. Transmission fluid degrades over time and with use, never mind the particulate that it collects. It's recommended to swap the filter and fluid, and about 500 miles later swap the fluid again. When you drain the fluid, you are really only getting about half of it, so a second change makes an appreciable difference. After that, diminishing gains make it not worth it. Audi calls it a sealed system, but the transmission manufacturer recommends replacing the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles, IIRC. Changing the fluid on schedule helps to minimize the risk of clogging up the mechatronix with gunk, which can profoundly affect shift quality. It also helps minimize particulate that can wear all internals and the better lubrication properties of fresh fluid can't be denied.
So, in short, you should absolutely do it.
So, in short, you should absolutely do it.
10-06-2016, 07:28 AM
#17
AudiWorld Super User
Hoot fix was a 3x flush from Gold to Blue and a reflash of ECU. Some have done it with more like a 2x flush sticking with Gold (ZF6) and no reflash. Hoot or other noises (but especially any rough shifting) may also be tied to a worn gasket between valve body (Mechatronics) and trans. case. Search my prior posts.
Net, yes, try a flush to start as the easiest. You would do a multi cycle flush anyway if you do something internal, so first flush should tell you directionally if you are having any effect. First flush gets you about 45-50% w/ no pan drop, or about 55-60% with pan drop and filter change. Second cycle, assuming a pan drop either first or second time but not both, gets you about 80%.
Do an adaptation cycle too. May help. Need VCDS to trigger it. Search for hoot TSB for how to.
Net, yes, try a flush to start as the easiest. You would do a multi cycle flush anyway if you do something internal, so first flush should tell you directionally if you are having any effect. First flush gets you about 45-50% w/ no pan drop, or about 55-60% with pan drop and filter change. Second cycle, assuming a pan drop either first or second time but not both, gets you about 80%.
Do an adaptation cycle too. May help. Need VCDS to trigger it. Search for hoot TSB for how to.
10-06-2016, 08:24 AM
#20
AudiWorld Super User
I would say 4.5 to 5.5 w/ no pan drop, thus buy 6. If pan drop, can go to 6.5, so 7. Allow for a little spilling out during refill.
Be sure you know procedure. Car has to be flat but you need to be underneath to pump in more post start up. Then need to get to 40-45C or so and either top it up, or let run out if you pumped it to max right after cold start. Car being flat but getting underneath while motor running can be a challenge for many DIY'ers. Need (safe) jack stands, ramps plus jack stands on opposite end, or sloped driveway in lieu. Or, a lift. I have sloped driveway, and have also done ramps on front and jacked up in back on flat garage floor.
Be sure you know procedure. Car has to be flat but you need to be underneath to pump in more post start up. Then need to get to 40-45C or so and either top it up, or let run out if you pumped it to max right after cold start. Car being flat but getting underneath while motor running can be a challenge for many DIY'ers. Need (safe) jack stands, ramps plus jack stands on opposite end, or sloped driveway in lieu. Or, a lift. I have sloped driveway, and have also done ramps on front and jacked up in back on flat garage floor.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 10-06-2016 at 08:27 AM.