MP4.2+6.0

The upper front right arm bushing. Again, not as bad as the same side rear, but on its way to deep cracking on one of the two sides.

MP4.2+6.0

This is the upper rear right arm bushing. I would rate it as fully gone. Again, it is in worse shape than its identical miles same side front. Unlike the others, this one is apparently completely torn out internally. When It was still bolted firmly into the car on the bushing end but undone on the ball joint end, I could rotate it around the bushing axis and it would not spring back (the others would). From my C5 experience the only step left to the deterioration is when the inner metal area through which the bolt passes starts to physically settle as the lower rubber breaks out and away. That's when it shifts from just some creaking to some metal on metal noises if it gets really bad.

lso notice the dealer did not fit the bushing in whee it is supposed to be. The felt pen black marks are at the correct vertical relative to where the two perforations are supposed to be placed.

Pre start of job, it was this one that was what told me I should get going on it, and just do the whole job.

haggisuk

Could I ask what your thoughts are on replacement bushes.

I have an S8 that needs the bushes replaced along with the drop links.

The manual says to drop the strut out along with the UCA's

Is that the best way or is there any cheats that you guys can pass on.

Also if the bushes are shot on the front end what's the rear end going to be like do they need looking at around the same kind of intervals.

the cars done 60k miles.

Also i noticed there is a TSB about the UCA's with a part number of 4E0 498 998 for a complete set of UCA's should one wish to go that route but from the googling I have done on that number its for A8's not S8's

Is there an equivalent set for the S8

mishar

You need to drop whole assembly just a bit (less then those big bolts length) so you can take out rear bushings bolts. At your millage I would replace just bushings. Ball joints must be good. Rear end is much better. No need to do anything now, unless you have some alignment , tire wear, or handling problems.

MP4.2+6.0

If you go down deeper into this same post, look for my further reply that has pictures of the area. It is illustrating there what misha is talking about--you just loosen the strut assembly but never fully drop it. Also with an S8, read what I said about the W12 ABS unit carefully; you may have the same issue since they had to squeeze in the twin air boxes on both motors. I'm LHD though and presumably you are RHD in UK, so how they place the ABS from side to side I wouldn't know, but am guessing it is likely symmetrical/mirror image.

Yes, part numbers on S8 bushings are different. I have them somewhere if needed, but they were in the parts diagrams I attached further below if you look for the 2MB (aka S8) suspension option. Later edit: from one of the replies below, S8 bushing # should be: 4E0 407 515D The ONLY place to get those bushings is Audi; there is no Lemforder OES alternative for the S8 level bushing (or complete control arm). Not that you need the whole arm, but as I discuss at length below (or elsewhere), the dealer S8 arms are actually somewhat less in the U.S. than the A8 dealer arms. Odd, since the S8 bushings in turn cost somewhat more than the A8 bushings from a U.S. dealer.

BTW, and also as I posted if you wade deep into the post, do NOT rely on the part number on the bushing if you can make it out. Having worked with audiusaparts (the Portland OR area dealer), they called Audi North America parts, who in turn confirmed from prior inquiries and checking that while both A8 and S8 bushings have the same part number embedded in the rubber, it arises because they use the same mold set but nonetheless are supposedly different in the rubber compound. Choose whether to believe it or not, but that is the official Audi story. I can confirm the S8 numbered control arms I bought had the A8 bushing part numbers, as did the S8 bushings I also bought to re do the OE A8 arms I pulled out for the future. Hence why I called to track it down carefully with Audi. Also never mind that literally that failure to distinguish part numbers and revs was a big part of the GM ignition switch debacle; a no no with OE parts.

Also, yes I found front and rear uppers both had similar wear. Actually contrary to sometimes prior sense of the board, if anything the rears showed marginally more wear than the fronts; its in the pics from my earlier posts below.

Finally, I would do the lower sway bar links if you are doing the upper bushings. Links are really easy to install. They are also subject to wear/bushing distortion. I also use S8 bars on my W12 for what its worth and I have seen distortion or minor tearing for two change cycles by now; dealer did first one under CPO warranty. If you buy Lemforder (the OES), you can get them for about ⅓ of the dealer price, at least here in U.S. For U.S. pricing, they cost me about $65 total for both, shipped to my door.

haggisuk

I did read most of your replies further down, I too had a bit of head scratching in regards to pr numbers 2ma and 2mb, along with the part numbers on bushes.

Glad you cleared that one up.

You are correct about the Abs unit on cars with two air boxes, I noticed how tightly packed it all is on that side, as I had them out yesterday after the dealer made a mess of servicing the car but that's another story.

Interestingly the abs unit location is the same side as yours.

From my inspections the ball joints all looked good and I couldn't feel any play in them, and steering all turns freely with no stiff sports or funny noises.

The only other thing that needs attention on the front end is the links from the roll bar, as far as I can find they are the same part number as A8's?

Does Mishars trick with the lowering of the strut on the bolts need the lower mounting point of the strut removing or is the enough movement in everything?

Also would longer bolts put in place of the strut mounting bolts assist in anyway to let the strut hang lower?

Thanks again, appreciate your time and thoughts.

Del

1Wasserwerks

Haggisuk,
When I did my upper front control arm bushings, I removed the inner two most bolts on the bracket, loosened the outermost bolt to let the rest hang low. The removal of the two inner bolts allowed the upper bracket to swivel further than normal in order to remove the upper bushing bolt. If I remember I did unbolt the strut from the lower arm and moved that out of the way as well.

mishar

Lift both sides or disconnect the sway bar first so you don't have to wrestle it all the times. No need for a longer bolts. You need just a bit more space in order to take that stupid bolt out. Put it back the opposite way so next time you don't need to loose the top at all. No need for unbolting the bottom of the strut. All this if you can take that pinch bolt out. If not you will have to take knuckle with upper links to the bench. Much more work.

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, 2MB is Audi's option code for the S8 level suspension. I don't have the S8, but suspect if you look at your build/options sticker (in trunk/boot or in original manuals for car) you would see it in the long list of three digit/letter items.

From all parts listings I have looked at in the past, the sway (roll) bar links are the same no matter which suspension version you have; the bar itself is what varies (S8 bars basically have a thicker sidewall to the tubular construction and are relative large diameter). Thus practical to go with the Lemforder links that are OES but a lot cheaper than Audi OE.

Strut bolts: I just loosened mine way up. I did not fully remove any of them. I would hesitate to go much lower given that key connection you see coming in from above at the center of the shock tower from above. I did not need to remove any main attachment point from below (strut, lower arms) though along the way I did replace the sway bar links. I did unbolt the tie rod (steering) ends so I could move the whole strut assembly around to any position.

haggisuk

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have yet to order the parts and it will probably not get done till after May with other things going on but its good to prepare.

Del