ebi718

Having recently completed this upgrade in my C6, I decided to do same for the D3 this weekend. So far, I like the way it has turned out - same concept but slightly different configuration (at least for now).

First off, the obligatory disclaimer:
You assume sole responsibility for any any damage to your vehicle (or injury to self) if you follow this modification. Do your due diligence to understand the requirements + skills needed. As usual, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery BEFORE performing any electrical work on your car.


Parts List:
1 - Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block
1 - Blue Sea 100amp Circuit Breaker
5 - Bosch-style 30/40 Automotive relay
11 - M4 .7mm hex nut
3 - 4MM-.7x12mm cap screw (for relays)
25 - 5MM flat washers
11 - M4x20mm 3mm Hex Cap Screws
15' - 4AWG battery cable red and black each
Lot - 4 gauge, 10 gauge copper terminal connectors
Power distribution busbar
Cordless Drill



Mock-up:
I started out by making rough outline of how I wanted the fuse block + circuit breaker to be laid out. Given the placement of the battery and the lack of space in that right compartment, I chose to place the block within the trunk, making both easily accessibly both for adding accessories and to use the 'kill switch'.


Measure once, cut twice..


... I still managed to get the alignment way off...



4AWG Ground wire connected (to battery main negative cable).



Current Configuration:
This is how it looks at the moment. I thought of routing the cables through the blades of the vent; also considered drilling a 1.25" opening (with hole saw) for a grommet to route the cables through to the battery compartment. I will work on that next weekend.



With the circuit breaker (which also protects the fuse block), I can cut off power at any time. In the coming days I will be connecting a couple accessories (trunk LED, BlackVue 6502ch, Ham radio, Android TV box) to the the new fuse block.

Future updates:
1. Set up some of the circuits as switched using relays.
2. Modify the plastic/side vent cover so it has grommets to allow for easier routing of the cables.

ebi718

I did some minor updates today, installed a grommet to route the cables.


I also installed an LED strip (replacing the left trunk bulb); will switch out the one on the right to complete the look.



Last thing I did was install a tripple-function panel (USB charger, 12V outlet and Voltmeter). They all have their own (fused) circuits.



The USB charger is powered off the auxilliary fuse block, the Voltmeter is on the main busline left compartment (fed from the right compartment). The 12V outlet will go on the fuse block as well.

Greg5OH

really digging that power outlet panel with volt meter!
What about adding a hidden inverter and having a 120V plug back there too?

ebi718

I have one of these inverters (BESTEK 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Converter with 3.1A Dual USB Car Charger) but I'd rather NOT hard-wire it but plug (and unplug it) as needed - a minor inconvenience. I recall the reading somewhere you're not supposed to leave the power inverter in the ON position while your car is off).

awdinut

Just curious...instead of making your A8 look like the Back To The Future De Lorian why not install on the underside of the hat shelf where it wouldnt be seen and the cables could run out of sight over the top of the side panels and into the battery compartment? Or, if I remember correctly, one of the fuse blocks in the battery compartment is modular. I added an OEM fuse holder for the fridge to the fuse block by sliding it into place.

ebi718

Great point. However I chose this layout for specific reasons....plus I have other plans for the hat shelf.

Greg5OH

Can one retrofit a w12 refrigerator into an s8? I assume you jsut take it out and pop it into place, hook it up on its own dedicated circuit?

awdinut

I put in the a fore mentioned dedicated fuse holder. I had to scavenge a male and female plug set from a car in a salvage yard because I could not find the female plug to match the one on the fridge. The current draw is very small, I have a 6amp fuse for the fridge; its supposed to be a 5 amp but they would blow every now and then. Also, Audi wires the fridge to a circuit that is only hot when the car is running, but I wired mine to be hot all the time. That way if I am traveling and have the fridge going I can stop for something that may take several hours and I know that the champagne will stay chilled to the proper 43 degrees Fahrenheit. Even if one forgot to turn off the fridge at the end of the day I doubt the battery would run down by morning with the big-*** battery that an A8 has. The fridge has a low voltage cut off unit on the fridge itself.

The install of the unit is easy. There are four allen bolts behind the trim around the fridge door. They draw the unit tightly up to the bulkhead. If your car does not have the ski opening there will a knock-out panel beneath the carpet covering the bulkhead.

Mysviper1994

I am installing a factory audi fridge in a 2013 audi a8 and was going to hard wire it. Could anyone help with the wiring on factory plug. It has a purple,red , orange,yellow and black.
Any help is greatly appreciated