CMS062407

well, I knew this was coming for a few months now..cause my breaks have started to squeal very often. however, my brake pads indicator came on yesterday. What brand of pads does everyone recommend I go with? Should I just go to autozone, oreilly, etc and pickup w/e they have or go with a better aftermarket brand from online?

Also, I have a VAG-COM..but, I am very new to the VAG...i am assuming it will tell me which brake pads need to be replaced?? I will hook the VAG up once i get off work, today..

Lastly, I haven't changed brake pads in about 10 years..but I am familiar with how to do it...but, are there any special tools I will need for the Audi? I know the front brakes use dual pistons..so, i can't just use a standard large pliers..what should i use?? Thanks

JohnnyJ A6Q

check out some post from Louis.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...sport-2849517/

And get the tool that Misha linked.


https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...6-a8l-2866173/


Johnny J J

Bobbymireless

I have a 2007 A8L Quattro. My senor on the dash prompted me too. My brakes don't squeak (fingers crossed) yet. I did run my fingers over the rotors (Front and back) to see if there was a lip at the edge and low and behold, there was.

I just got these in the mail this week. They have the senors too
(Audi D3 A8 Quattro 4.2 Braking Pads - HB687Z.750 - Front Performance Ceramic Brake Pad Set - ES#2627846)



It's recommended to replace the rotors too.
(Audi D3 A8 Quattro 4.2 Braking Rotors - 4e0615301pKT - Front Brake Rotors - Pair (360x34) - ES#2823225)

I've found some youtube videos on how to replace the pads. You could use regular tools but you can also use these:
(Audi D3 A8 Quattro 4.2 Braking Tools - PBK-11PCS - Brake Caliper Piston Tool Kit - 11 Pieces - ES#9747)

or the 18 piece set

You could do some research on cheaper prices on pads, rotors, or upgrades all together (slotted and dimpled)

I am doing it myself since the dealership would charge me $200 just for labor.Parts not included. VAG-COM i think is for the rear and E-brake... I think. I know I guy with a VAG-COM so I will be using his.

Hope this helps

MP4.2+6.0

1. Do the wise thing. Search the board--per the sticky above; it applies to more than just "noobies". Even in the last screen or two of recent posts and replies the subject came up. And honestly, I'll do you a favor and not even respond to the pad type question until you look into it more. You can go with today's random input (to today's repetitive question), or you can look into it more deliberately. Heck, they're only brakes after all...

2. Ummm, yeah you might want to be sure which end it is first... Besides the obvious, also nuanced in that it could affect pad choice/factors to weigh more or less some. Again, I'll hold the reasons why for now until you have better basic data on which end and some searching. Yes, VCDS would tell you via the codes which end it is, though usually a visual is pretty good. But, work smart too. Check both ends in case other one is predictably just around the corner wear wise before it throws a light or otherwise has issues.

3. What about the rotors? You didn't ask, but rule of thumb since it won't just be in the last week's posts and replies is rotor change every other pad set to stay in spec. So statistically at least 50-50 you probably need them, even assuming maintenance was done prudently in past. You should get your hands a bit dirty here with some old school pre-work checking, not just assume the electronics tell you everything. They absolutely will not about rotor wear. Same principle is true any time you touch a mechanical/prone to wear part on the car. Again, endless posts about rotor choices, both shorter and longer term. So if you find those are needed too, a search first will pay dividends, and you again can avoid some of the possible random votes du jour. In simplest terms (and assuming no prior rotor surfacing which is rare now) for the appropriate first questions (not brands, but rather what do I need): If lip is up about 1mm one one side, its maybe okay but should be mic'ed. Beyond a mm they are likely at or below min. spec, and certainly by 1 ½ to 2 they are done. A good or even reputable shop wouldn't even do that work with a rotor below (or just at) min spec., and would always mic the rotors.

Fronts just need piston compressor or block of wood and C clamp. Rears need VCDS and sometimes/quasi often wind in + tool. Decent ones--that are still easily available and don't cost big bucks--do that and apply inward force at same time.

carl viking

First - go to Zeckhausen.com. Excellent vendor with outstanding cust service. They even answer the phone...

Second - absolutely get a spreader tool. I use this one, works great om most calipers.
Spreader tool - there are many variants

Except Audi/VW standard rear calipers of course, then you need a special tool that turns the piston while pressing on it. But for the A8 you use VCDS instead.

MP4.2+6.0

FWIW, so I thought universally on the D3, and used to post to that effect as well. Until my most recent rear brake pad job, where the caliper loosened up enough to get it off/over the rotor lip, but did not fully open like it has in the past. Might just be increasing age of the unit and some incremental friction to large movement like the opening step. Since I had the winder+expander tool from my prior A6 4.2 rear set up, it did the trick with no fuss at all. Could be I could have pushed straight in (beyond finger pressure and without opening bleeder that I tried), but I didn't want to risk it. Of course C clamp approach on the rears if that stickiness comes up immediately destroys the (plastic housing) parking brake set up right behind the piston area, as one or two posters over the years figured out the hard way.

carl viking

Hmm - I read your post three times - not sure I get it?
:-)
"the caliper loosened up enough to get it off/over the rotor lip" Was that meant to say "didn't" somewhere in there?
Also don't understand part two - C clamp presses breaks what plastic? On the normal Audi rears you can't push it in without the twist tool?

[confused]

MP4.2+6.0

With VCDS the parking brake motor kicked in on mine when i triggered the pad open cycle and it did its winding noise thing. But it did not fully open. I cycled it a second time BTW just in case it was a fluke. It was enough to pull the caliper off the rotor--once you undo the 13mm bolts that attach it to the sliding pins. But the piston was not fully retracted like you need in order to fit brand new pads. As in thicker new pads than the worn out ones I pulled off, so it has to be opened fully any time new pads go in, especially with fresher rotors. And in turn the caliper has to be off the rotor to get at the piston side using any normal technique to try to get it back in; other than prying on the old pad with a big screwdriver to force it.

C clamp: even though they are somewhat off axis to each other, if you try going at the piston in the back caliper with a C clamp, particularly from the side of the caliper farthest away from the hub, that plastic housing that contains the parking brake motor is going to get munched. Again, this ignores even the question of whether you have to also turn it as you push it in if/when the piston hangs up like mine did. It may look like shiny aluminum (not great for clamping force either if thin cast) if it hasn't yet been scuffed up from prior work. But it is really just foil noise insulation to pretend to muffle the periodic motor winding noise when it periodically readjusts itself. C clamps work great in front like for most calipers, but not the back, again piston winding need aside. Or, if pads and rotors are both getting tossed, I just stick the big screwdriver in between them and pry until the pistons are fully retracted. In front you also have to block across the two pistons for the (single) C clamp method, or simply use the old pad if it is being tossed to seat the C clamp on the piston side. The back of the caliper casting is plenty robust enough for the clamp. If you don't block across the pistons, as fast as you push in on one, the other of course wants to pop out whack a mole style unless the bleeder is open.

Finally, the old way (pre D3) way I sometimes did it in back if I used the total cheap *** < $10 6 sided square universal tool with pins sticking out was you would put that universal tool against the piston face where those detents are and then clamp it. Then you would tighten the clamp while trying to fit a crescent wrench in there to turn the cheap square tool. Total kludge and kind of needed three hands, especially with brake line still attached. Hence I broke down and bought the $40 better set at some point. Turn an hour of improvising into 5 minutes of straight forward steps. The purpose built tool set I think we both mean that has the dies with various locking pin configurations to lock into the piston detents together with the threaded expander type set up to work the piston back in easily and seamlessly. That is what I used on the D3 when the motor retract step didn't retract the piston fully.

CMS062407

Well, after doing research...it looks like a lot of people go with hawk or ebc pads..I am still trying to figure out if it is wise to use a ceramic pad on an OEM rotor....some people have said it is fine while others say it isn't wise...

CMS062407

On a side note....do you all even think my rotors need to be replaced? They feel smooth and my 07 A8L car is currently at 39k miles....I wouldn't imagine the rotors would need to be changed until the next brake job....thanks for the helpful replies.