d3 fog lamp wiring?
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
d3 fog lamp wiring?
Taking out the crappy HID system the PO had in there. i see the original green and brown on driver side wires, and the brown, grey wires on passenger side.
Thats where the aftermarket was cut and tapped into, so no original h11 connector. I cut the aftermarket stuff out,
However only get 0.5 volts across the two pairs of wires with the fog lights turned on. The rear fogs turn on but the fronts only get 0.5V.
Then, with switch off the voltage across the pair of wires returns to 0.
Am I missing a ground somewhere?
Figure id ask before i start to completely remove the wiring from the lower core support.
Thats where the aftermarket was cut and tapped into, so no original h11 connector. I cut the aftermarket stuff out,
However only get 0.5 volts across the two pairs of wires with the fog lights turned on. The rear fogs turn on but the fronts only get 0.5V.
Then, with switch off the voltage across the pair of wires returns to 0.
Am I missing a ground somewhere?
Figure id ask before i start to completely remove the wiring from the lower core support.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Taking out the crappy HID system the PO had in there. i see the original green and brown on driver side wires, and the brown, grey wires on passenger side.
Thats where the aftermarket was cut and tapped into, so no original h11 connector. I cut the aftermarket stuff out,
However only get 0.5 volts across the two pairs of wires with the fog lights turned on. The rear fogs turn on but the fronts only get 0.5V.
Then, with switch off the voltage across the pair of wires returns to 0.
Am I missing a ground somewhere?
Figure id ask before i start to completely remove the wiring from the lower core support.
Thats where the aftermarket was cut and tapped into, so no original h11 connector. I cut the aftermarket stuff out,
However only get 0.5 volts across the two pairs of wires with the fog lights turned on. The rear fogs turn on but the fronts only get 0.5V.
Then, with switch off the voltage across the pair of wires returns to 0.
Am I missing a ground somewhere?
Figure id ask before i start to completely remove the wiring from the lower core support.
So, normal operation. There are very few direct switch circuits on a D3.
#3
AudiWorld Super User
As in, you cannot really test it with a voltmeter, correct? That's what I found w/ rear trailer wiring--you actually had to load (and run it) it w/ incandescent type resistance or the readings didn't compute.
#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
interesting, however i tried to quickly wire up that incandescent bulb had by twisting the wires together, and it also did not light up..unless both sides need to be loaded? Would it only shine 1 light or no lights at all if 1 bulb is burn out?
Last edited by Greg5OH; 10-01-2016 at 07:21 PM.
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
It's weird that they spliced the connector since most aftermarket use the same connector as the H11. All I had to do was reverse the polarity on my HID system and it was plug and play. Will always rather have HID fogs than halogen for me.
Last edited by TSHong; 10-03-2016 at 10:38 PM.
#9
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
it was strange indeed. 2008 HID systems were nit as robust and compact as they are now days.
Just to confirm, there is the green and brown on driver side, brown adn grey on pass side which plug directly into the lights. I believe the brown wire is the ground , goes to connector 203 which states it is a ground connector in fog light harness. which shares a common ground with the side marker lights (which work), so then it simply HAS to be the case that I can just run both of the cut wires to a new H11 connector and onto a new fog lamp bulb, especially if I am seeing 0.5V with the circuit active..?
Connectors wont be in till tomorrow, so I will attempt to do them then.
Just to confirm, there is the green and brown on driver side, brown adn grey on pass side which plug directly into the lights. I believe the brown wire is the ground , goes to connector 203 which states it is a ground connector in fog light harness. which shares a common ground with the side marker lights (which work), so then it simply HAS to be the case that I can just run both of the cut wires to a new H11 connector and onto a new fog lamp bulb, especially if I am seeing 0.5V with the circuit active..?
Connectors wont be in till tomorrow, so I will attempt to do them then.
#10
AudiWorld Super User
In general, yes brown or brown w/ some stripe is ground for Audi's--has been all the way back to my 73 100LS. Not black in particular like one might think from household or other wiring.
Probably doesn't matter inside the fog light assembly anyway--if the facelift (rectangular) ones are the same as the older round ones w/ notch in top like mine. If so, it's all plastic anyway and shouldn't ground to body there or via attach points that are themselves yet more plastic (beyond any reinforcement that is). Then in turn for incandescent with a filament it shouldn't matter which "end" you feed the power signal through. Nonetheless best to keep it per factory.
As you get this straightened out, you probably also notice the adjustment screws for the lens assemblies. You can find some dark wall at night to dial them in optimally but w/out unnecessary glare.
Probably doesn't matter inside the fog light assembly anyway--if the facelift (rectangular) ones are the same as the older round ones w/ notch in top like mine. If so, it's all plastic anyway and shouldn't ground to body there or via attach points that are themselves yet more plastic (beyond any reinforcement that is). Then in turn for incandescent with a filament it shouldn't matter which "end" you feed the power signal through. Nonetheless best to keep it per factory.
As you get this straightened out, you probably also notice the adjustment screws for the lens assemblies. You can find some dark wall at night to dial them in optimally but w/out unnecessary glare.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 10-03-2016 at 07:29 AM.