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D3 Transmission won't cooperate! What am I missing?

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Old 01-29-2014, 05:05 PM   #1
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Default D3 Transmission won't cooperate! What am I missing?

Hi all, long time lurker and now I need advice. I bought a used D3 and have been sorting out its issues over the past month. So far I've been able to answer just about every question I come up with just by searching these forums, but this time I've hit a wall.

First a little car history-
It's an 04 D3, that was in a minor accident a couple of years ago, it damaged the front bumper and nothing else. Then it sat for two years before I came along to rescue it.. I've replaced the bumper (fog lights, parking sensors etc..) Bought a VAGCOM and worked my way through the fault codes that first showed up.. Now I have a couple still showing up-(rear brake pads that need to be replaced, eng mount open to ground, bad battery in telematics) but nothing I'm worried about.

Problem-
My issue is with the transmission, and I think specifically with the transmission controller.
It sat for long enough that the battery died. I've replaced it and coded the new battery and after a few run cycles most things have come back to normal except the trans.. At first it would go into limp mode right away after starting up and trying to drive(had a D2 also, so I know what that's like) and it would just act like crap, throw trans output mismatch codes etc.Until the trans warmed up and then it would drive fine. Also after warming up, it would not throw any trans codes. Weird right?
I've checked the trans fluid level (it's fine) and thinking it might be a viscosity issue, I was thinking of just upgrading the fluid and adding a new filter. Then getting the updated trans flash from the dealer. While searching this option I read on the Ross tech wiki that a Throttle body alignment (TBA) is recommended when the battery is disconnected. SO I just did that & it went fine..
The Ross Tech wiki also recommend setting the kick-down basic settings for the transmission control module after it is disconnected from the battery.. So I do that too..

And now it shifts like crap,, at first I thought is was fine as it seemed to go into gear at start-up when cold. But soon it was revving finding first gear. chunking from gear to gear, and not smooth at all. I stopped it at the end of the block and ran another self test, but no fault codes from the trans..

So I just walked back here and signed up to AudiWorld just to ask: does anyone know what is going on? Did I screw things up doing the TBA and kick-down procedures? If so is there a way to undo those changes? Or are there other procedures I still need to do to get it to play nice?

Any advice would be appreciated..
Thx
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:31 PM   #2
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That is very weird. That's generally a very solid transmission, so I'm figuring it could easily be an engine/transmission adaptation issue. I would try the special procedure for aligning them and see if that helps. Sometimes the MAF can act up and make the trans malfunction without throwing a code, but failing to engage first doesn't fit with anything like that. I would think that the mechanical aspects of the transmission are ok.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
That is very weird. That's generally a very solid transmission, so I'm figuring it could easily be an engine/transmission adaptation issue. I would try the special procedure for aligning them and see if that helps. Sometimes the MAF can act up and make the trans malfunction without throwing a code, but failing to engage first doesn't fit with anything like that. I would think that the mechanical aspects of the transmission are ok.
I agree, I think the trans is fine. I suspect a software issue.. The changes in behavior were noticeable after I did the updates from the wiki..

Can you refer me to how I would go about aligning the trans/eng? Or where I find the special procedure your referring to? I did a quick search for that and found nothing..

Thx,
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:59 PM   #4
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You checked the ATF level. How exactly?
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:29 PM   #5
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Default +1; my question too

I don't want to just assume it was checked in the correct way. Unless one in familiar with the procedure, it's easy to do at least a couple of things wrong--even if seemingly reasonable--that can lead to the fluid level being anywhere from slightly off to way off, particularly on the low (too little) end.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [pics now only in picture poster] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to C6 MMI and various other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 01-29-2014 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishar View Post
You checked the ATF level. How exactly?
I had a '99 before this, so I did it the same way:

Jack up and level car> start and let trans fluid warm up to 30C> Open filler hole and check for fluid level, which should be around the top of the filler neck.

I just used my finger (sticking it up through the filler hole & bending it over the top) to check the atf oil level, so admittedly its a bit unscientific. But it was fine, the level is near the top of the filler neck where I thought it was supposed to be.. If I did something wrong or there is a correct/better way to check it please let me know.

The weird thing is I was playing with it again tonight (had to move it off the street), and this time I let it get to operating temp before even shifting to D. And it worked fine (not perfect, but fine) no hunting through gears, or racing on first. No problems shifting up through the gears or limp mode. It drove fine coming home.

I did a scan before I started the car & no problem codes w the trans, did another while it was warming up- nothing. Another after turning it off, nothing coming up. I know that sounds fine, but I bet if I go out in a few hours after it cools down it will act weird again..

If anyone has suggestions or pointers I'm all ears. At this point I'm still thinking I should change out the trans fluid & filter, have the dealer recode it & hope for the best. It's all I can think of doing to fix it.
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:27 PM   #7
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Default Sounds basically right

On the check, IIRC the temp is now 40C, plus you should overflow it at the opening rather than reach in. But those two probably roughly offset--the fluid volume expands a bit as it warms. Also supposed to shift it through the gears; I know that's hard in a non-lift scenario though. FWIW, I at least shift into D and R and load it just momentarily. But again, yours does sound close enough, particularly if it's about to get changed anyway where you can do it more accurately.

Then as far as next steps, I tend to agree. Drain fluid and change filter. You aren't describing anything that would indicate specifically the bigger bucks "blue" fluid--which also takes several drains to get the fluid type changed out). Thus I would just use the same "gold" it came with. There are a few other long shots I can think of, but fluid change would be a next logical one under the circumstances.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [pics now only in picture poster] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to C6 MMI and various other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 02-02-2014, 08:33 AM   #8
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Default 6hp24a Shift SOLUTION

Quote:
Originally Posted by BerkNut View Post
Hi all, long time lurker and now I need advice. I bought a used D3 and have been sorting out its issues over the past month. So far I've been able to answer just about every question I come up with just by searching these forums, but this time I've hit a wall.

First a little car history-
It's an 04 D3, that was in a minor accident a couple of years ago, it damaged the front bumper and nothing else. Then it sat for two years before I came along to rescue it.. I've replaced the bumper (fog lights, parking sensors etc..) Bought a VAGCOM and worked my way through the fault codes that first showed up.. Now I have a couple still showing up-(rear brake pads that need to be replaced, eng mount open to ground, bad battery in telematics) but nothing I'm worried about.

Problem-
My issue is with the transmission, and I think specifically with the transmission controller.
It sat for long enough that the battery died. I've replaced it and coded the new battery and after a few run cycles most things have come back to normal except the trans.. At first it would go into limp mode right away after starting up and trying to drive(had a D2 also, so I know what that's like) and it would just act like crap, throw trans output mismatch codes etc.Until the trans warmed up and then it would drive fine. Also after warming up, it would not throw any trans codes. Weird right?
I've checked the trans fluid level (it's fine) and thinking it might be a viscosity issue, I was thinking of just upgrading the fluid and adding a new filter. Then getting the updated trans flash from the dealer. While searching this option I read on the Ross tech wiki that a Throttle body alignment (TBA) is recommended when the battery is disconnected. SO I just did that & it went fine..
The Ross Tech wiki also recommend setting the kick-down basic settings for the transmission control module after it is disconnected from the battery.. So I do that too..

And now it shifts like crap,, at first I thought is was fine as it seemed to go into gear at start-up when cold. But soon it was revving finding first gear. chunking from gear to gear, and not smooth at all. I stopped it at the end of the block and ran another self test, but no fault codes from the trans..

So I just walked back here and signed up to AudiWorld just to ask: does anyone know what is going on? Did I screw things up doing the TBA and kick-down procedures? If so is there a way to undo those changes? Or are there other procedures I still need to do to get it to play nice?

Any advice would be appreciated..
Thx
First I have and currently own 04 A8L, 01 S8 and 02 A8L and painstakingly researched all things ZF and I personally wrench on these MYSELF.

You need a REBUILT VALVE BODY. No fault codes in VAG = no electronic control issues. Do your own due diligence of course fisrt then Do yourself a favor and Take my advice. I used RevMax for my rebuilt valvebody. I worked with Frank.

http://www.revmaxconverters.com/inde...alve-body.html

You must replace the Trans adapter seal that is literally responsible for the seal of in and out flow of fluid/pressure between the pump and the valve body. To avoid confusion just go to dealer and get the right part the first time (around $30) this is difficult to find.

The fluid type issue has been beat to death in other forums. Problem is that many less informed enthusiasts try to fix their Transmission woes with fluid and filter when they really need rebuilt valve body. In The LAST 7 D2s that I have owned and my current 04 A8L daily driver. I PERSONALLY use Valvoline MaxLife (This is FULL SYNTHETIC). If Valvoline Guarantees compatibility good enough for me and proven with flawless shifting and many many 10s of thousands of miles in many cars. My 01 S8 has 199k miles and original ZF 5hp24a transmission with rebuild valve body.

That said I would recommend the kit from BlauParts because it has everything else you need (gasket, filter, extra hardware, transfer pump and fluid). Should satisfy the purest with its "golden honey colored German fluid". You should have At least 10 quarts/liters available. You will drop a lot more fluid by removing valve body than just filter change.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F2A1023-B


Final advice. I do a transmission fluid drain and fill on my cars EVERY YEAR regardless of miles. If you spend extra money on synthetic fluid for the most expensive part of your car (the engine) then why would you cheep out on the second most expensive part on your car(the Transmission)? I can do a drain and fill on my transmission faster than change my oil!
FACT even ZF admits that the fuild is spent at 70k miles. A drain and fill only changes 50% of fluid so you are really freshening up the fluid.

LOL at myself for using "cheep fluid from Walmart" less than $40 for 2 gallons of Valvoline MaxLife. Results speak for themselves.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by win72010 View Post
The LAST 7 D2s that I have owned and my current 04 A8L daily driver. I PERSONALLY use Valvoline MaxLife (This is FULL SYNTHETIC). If Valvoline Guarantees compatibility good enough for me and proven with flawless shifting and many many 10s of thousands of miles in many cars. My 01 S8 has 199k miles and original ZF 5hp24a transmission with rebuild valve body.
Now I totally agree with the red valvoline maxlife fluid on the old five speed 5hp24. I use that in my bimmer ever since I rebuilt the transmission and I've had great results so far. Now are you saying that you also use that fluid in a ZF 6HP26 six-speed?
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:09 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
Now I totally agree with the red valvoline maxlife fluid on the old five speed 5hp24. I use that in my bimmer ever since I rebuilt the transmission and I've had great results so far. Now are you saying that you also use that fluid in a ZF 6HP26 six-speed?
I'll second this. I've used Max Life in 5HP boxes with great success, but I personally wouldn't think of it in a 6HP.

Also, while clean fluid is certainly good, I think once a year is a bit excessive, unless you're driving 50k in said year.
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Old 02-02-2014, 06:49 PM   #11
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Default The merging of the ZF 5HP & 6HP seems anti-universe to me

1. Having owned one, the 5HP24A was a lemon basically, at least until late 2000 builds. When it was in top shape, it shifted nicely. It operated near the top of its torque capacity in many of the Audi apps. But as noted, finicky valve body (coupled with a lot of crap in the fluid, presumably from faster internals wear), and that's just for starters. Then there was the whole clutch basket (fiasco), quietly revved by ZF along with a bunch of internals, the not infrequently failing torque converters, and the blah blah blah many other known issues. The older boards that used the 5 speed are full of how to fix, what broke, what's wrong type posts. Did my own valve body swap and later had it rebuilt along the way--early 2000, before the rev's ZF and Audi chose not to discuss in general. The checkered history is not the situation with the six speed in general.

2. ZF has separate fluids for the 5 and 6 speeds. Audi supplied fluid tracks the same way. There is some merging from the 6 to the 8's with the ZF sourced Lifeguard 8 fluid, but not back to the 5 speeds. Thus, I won't be using a 5 speed spec. fluid in any ZF6 or 8 I own. Nor am I particularly a believer or user in either one size fits all fluids when the manufacturer specs otherwise, nor in a hundred different ideas on wonder juices. These trannies, and the labor for any R&R let alone rebuild, are just too many $$$ to stray off the known spec. fluids.

3. IIRC, 5 speed and 6 speeds really aren't very close design wise. Sure they have parts with the same names and have inevitably similar designs common to any modern automatic. But, my net is I wouldn't take ZF 5 learning and just assume it applies. Frankly given #1, the less they connect to each other, the better by me and my experiences with them.
__________________
Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [pics now only in picture poster] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to C6 MMI and various other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-02-2014 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:10 AM   #12
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The valve body is the single most important and most complicated assemblies in any transmission REGARDING SHIFT CHARACTERISTICS. The pressure control valves are subject to falling out of tolerance because they are constantly in motion. There are many known problems with the 6HP26 valve body just look at the upgrade/updates that go into the valve body that RevMax sells. Also do some diligence into the SONNAX repair update kits. SO many known issues with this 6HP26 valve body. My personal problem with my D3 04 A8L was the common 1-2 clunk and harsh 2-1 shift at 114k miles. Now sifts flawlessly and because of the upgrades, I fully expect this 6HP26A tranmission to last well into the 200ks

PLEASE understand that I am not relying my experience with the 5HP24A in my D2s. The 6HP26A is a completely different animal! The reason for recommending the Valvoline MaxLife is VALVOLINE says they meet or exceed ZFs requirements. I am TOTALLY relying on the vast resources of a major manufacturer of SYNTHETIC FLUIDS. The 5HP24A original fills would not be synthetic! The original fill of the 6HP26A was a semi synthetic. ZF replaced the original semi synthetic fluid with a new FULL SYNTHETIC fluid and recommended some tweaks in the form of Mechatronic updates. Here is the RossTech info on my car:

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09E-927-156.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 156 E HW: 09E 927 156 A
Component: AG6 09E 4,2L5V USA 0120
Revision: 00000001 Serial number: 0013434
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 244CF1A4E77F4F38643

No fault code found.

I recommend the kit from BlauParts with RAVENOL fluid. The point is not to debate fluids.

I did say that that I was laughing at myself for using "cheep fluid from Walmart" no disrespect to Valvoline intended.
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:49 AM   #13
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Thanks for all the great replies. Personally I'll leave the "what kind of oil to use question" off the table for the purpose of my transmission. I have a "do it once and do it right approach" to most things I take on, and I think every member of this board does too. Otherwise why would we be here, spending our time learning about these cars?

In my real life job (construction) I see people skimp on materials all the time but the cost for the labor is always the same. So they end up living with compromises, when for X% more they could have what they really wanted. Yet if they ever change their mind and decide for the better materials, nicer thing etc., the cost is no longer just X, its X + new labor + old material + old labor + time lost doing it wrong the first time. And honestly I see it all the time..

I really understand thealso want to save cash since my pockets are not as deep as I would like. That's why I'm here on this board and under my car saving the $$ I can when I can. But if the cost of the ZF recommended fluid is $20 and the alternative is $5, saving $15 per liter is not the biggest concern. Even the $150 or so savings is for the whole replacement is not worth the peace of mind of having done it right the first time..

Now back to my trans-
Thanks for the advice win72010, do you know if there is any way to test the valves before having them rebuilt? Are there any other symptoms I should be looking for? Have you had the software flash as detailed by the TSB?

What about my original notion of having the software flash from the dealer along with fluid change? AND if I do the fluid change to prep for the software flash, the TSB seems to recommend the upgraded fluid (8) and no one is even talking about that.

Finally, since I checked my trans fluid in the old school luddite way, I was thinking of starting over and checking again. warming to 40 deg and putting in gear before checking, as recommended by MP4.2+6.0. anyone have the proper technique to check it handy?

Again thx for all the help..
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:08 AM   #14
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thanks for the quick reply,, ill look into those kits tonight..
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BerkNut View Post
I was thinking of starting over and checking again. warming to 40 deg and putting in gear before checking, as recommended by MP4.2+6.0. anyone have the proper technique to check it handy?
Shift it to D and R, add ATF until it start to overflow, wait a bit and close it. Engine is running all the time.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by mishar View Post
Shift it to D and R, add ATF until it start to overflow, wait a bit and close it. Engine is running all the time.
Thx, Mishar.
Then that is my first step... Will do and report back. & congrats on the upgrade to Guru,, its well deserved!
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:17 PM   #17
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Default 6HP26A Mechatronic software update

First you should have access to a VAG or RossTech to pull info from the Mechatronic. This is attached to the valve body and if you decide to install a rebuild valve body, It should be protected like it is your first born son! LOL. It is part of the immobilizer system. Should you damage the Mechatronic, you can not buy a used Mechatronic without a DEALER ONLY immobilizer adaption. So add the cost of tow to local stealer and the mercy of their creative billing to the cost of your project. RevMax has a PDF that makes it simple. This should not be confused with resetting the adaption to zero out learned driver preferences or soft codeing.

So lets look at my Ross Tech readout.

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09E-927-156.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 156 E HW: 09E 927 156 A
Component: AG6 09E 4,2L5V USA 0120
Revision: 00000001 Serial number: 0013434
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 244CF1A4E77F4F38643

In this line:
Part No SW: 4E0 910 156 E HW: 09E 927 156 A

"4E0 910 156 E" is the software and original factoy revision would have been 0070(not visible). From the chart I would be able to conclude Transmission code "GQF" and that is confirmed by reading my green build tag on the transmission. ALWAYS confirm before trying to order parts.

Component: AG6 09E 4,2L5V USA "0120"

On this line the "update" revision of "0120" indicates the latest update. nothing for the "stealer to FLASH" You would hope that the proper "fluid flush" associated with this update was completed but certainly not a given.

The first revision is the original and the second is the latest.

A8 4.2
GCF or GNU
4E0910156
0070
4E0910156
0100

GQF
4E0910156E
0070
4E0910156E
0120

HHV
4E0910156S
0010
4E0910156S
0030

HKT or HZA
4E1910156E
0020
4E1910156E
0110
A8 W12
HLM
4E1910156J
0050
4E1910156J
0060

HKV or JBU
4E1910156G
0020
4E1910156G
0120

GUN
4E0910156T
0080
4E0910156T
0090

HKW
4E1910156H
0020
4E1910156H
0110

Also see SVM Action Code NA4E37AA01
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:38 PM   #18
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Default Transmission Fluid 101

Any one jumping in should read full thread for this to make sense

You have to place your faith in someone. The safest bet is ZF and the LifeGard line of fluids. Certainly the Ravenol fluids from BlauParts are a solid choice. Then Mobile One. I personally use the Valvoline MaxLife. So witch team of engineers you decide to trust is obviously debatable.

That said lets look at one of the basic functions of Transmission fluid.

HOLD CONTAMINATES IN SUSPENSION!

Yes the detergents in transmission fluid is by design holing parts of clutch and metal (measured in NM) and carrying them for a ride as the circulate throughout the transmission.

You could use the analogy of a sponge. The fluid can only hold so much before it drips. In this case settle on parts and in the bottom of the pan. Many metal particles will be collected by the magnets. Also know that only so much metal can be effectively held by the magnets than we have the "FLUID SCREEN" to catch some contamination. Notice how it is called "SCREEN" and not a "FILTER"

These contaminates will eventually clog your SOLENOIDS and change their flow characteristics. The first domino falls.

INCORRECT PRESSURE damages your transmission. Too high, too low and spikes.

Now factor in wear on valves in conjunction with VARNISH. Varnish is a by product of Fluid that is too "FULL OF CONTAMINATION"

I change my transmission fluid to LITERALLY REMOVE some of the contamination along with some fluid. I am not trying to test the upper limit of how much contamination my transmission can endure.

For less than $40 I can refresh approximately 50% of my total transmissions circulating fluid.

You can not test the "valves" to see if they are good. You must remove valve body to measure tolerances and use flow bench to test circuits etc.

After you are satisfied with your due diligence. JUST BUY A REBUILT VALVE BODY or HAVE YOURS REBUILT

Final thoughts. I bought my D3 04 A8L knowing that the 1-2 and 2-1 shift was not right. All other shifts were perfect. I found that the pan had several fasteners loose and dripping fluid. I called Valvoline and they confirmed that the MaxLife meets ZF and Audis specs. I properly filled the transmission and could not believe that it needed 2 QUARTS! Are you kidding not even a code in Ross Tech! CLEARLY the FLUID LEVEL is not as short term critical as many have believe. All other sifts were perfect even being down 2 quarts. If I was driving my car hard into corners and creating high lateral Gs, I am sure it would have shifted stupid. After the top off, I drove the car and if anything it was worse. I practically issued a brick into my shorts. What have I done? I did a drain and fill to prepare for my rebuilt valve body and just to see if it changed anything. As expected CHANGED NOTHING. By doing a drain and fill I did a "first flush" then when I changed the valve body an extra 10 quarts. Total of 18 quarts.

As part of the Flash update Audi uses 16+ liters of fluid.

If you don't want to cheep out on you materials you better plan on full flush.

You have to place your faith in someones engineering team. I have placed mine in Valvoline. I personally don't believe in "Magic Fluid"

Let us know on YOUR SOLUTION
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:27 PM   #19
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Default Here is the relevant TSB--why the expensive blue fluid isn't called for here

Here is the TSB relating to the use of the blue fluid and the recoding: http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/Transmiss...ween%203-4.pdf

If you read it, it is only relevant if as a starting point you have a "hoot" going into fourth gear. Your symptoms aren't applicable from your descriptions, hence no use of the bigger bucks blue fluid is called for. The same issue exists for BMWs and Jags that use the RWD version of the same tranny, and likewise they call for similar procedures.

Note that there is a later version of the TSB, discussed in this thread for example: http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=24260333 I couldn't pull it on line easily, but I recall finding it before. The changes are minor apparently.

Meanwhile, note from the TSB I linked directly you can find the service procedures for the tranny fluid change discussed directly by Audi technical folk, regardless of the fluid used. It also has the table with the software rev. levels if you decide to get it recoded anyway (some have done that if you search thru archives). With VAG COM you can read your tranny part # and software rev level and match it up to the table.
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helpful cross reference to C6 MMI and various other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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