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Old 01-29-2014, 05:05 PM   #1
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Default D3 Transmission won't cooperate! What am I missing?

Hi all, long time lurker and now I need advice. I bought a used D3 and have been sorting out its issues over the past month. So far I've been able to answer just about every question I come up with just by searching these forums, but this time I've hit a wall.

First a little car history-
It's an 04 D3, that was in a minor accident a couple of years ago, it damaged the front bumper and nothing else. Then it sat for two years before I came along to rescue it.. I've replaced the bumper (fog lights, parking sensors etc..) Bought a VAGCOM and worked my way through the fault codes that first showed up.. Now I have a couple still showing up-(rear brake pads that need to be replaced, eng mount open to ground, bad battery in telematics) but nothing I'm worried about.

Problem-
My issue is with the transmission, and I think specifically with the transmission controller.
It sat for long enough that the battery died. I've replaced it and coded the new battery and after a few run cycles most things have come back to normal except the trans.. At first it would go into limp mode right away after starting up and trying to drive(had a D2 also, so I know what that's like) and it would just act like crap, throw trans output mismatch codes etc.Until the trans warmed up and then it would drive fine. Also after warming up, it would not throw any trans codes. Weird right?
I've checked the trans fluid level (it's fine) and thinking it might be a viscosity issue, I was thinking of just upgrading the fluid and adding a new filter. Then getting the updated trans flash from the dealer. While searching this option I read on the Ross tech wiki that a Throttle body alignment (TBA) is recommended when the battery is disconnected. SO I just did that & it went fine..
The Ross Tech wiki also recommend setting the kick-down basic settings for the transmission control module after it is disconnected from the battery.. So I do that too..

And now it shifts like crap,, at first I thought is was fine as it seemed to go into gear at start-up when cold. But soon it was revving finding first gear. chunking from gear to gear, and not smooth at all. I stopped it at the end of the block and ran another self test, but no fault codes from the trans..

So I just walked back here and signed up to AudiWorld just to ask: does anyone know what is going on? Did I screw things up doing the TBA and kick-down procedures? If so is there a way to undo those changes? Or are there other procedures I still need to do to get it to play nice?

Any advice would be appreciated..
Thx
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:31 PM   #2
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That is very weird. That's generally a very solid transmission, so I'm figuring it could easily be an engine/transmission adaptation issue. I would try the special procedure for aligning them and see if that helps. Sometimes the MAF can act up and make the trans malfunction without throwing a code, but failing to engage first doesn't fit with anything like that. I would think that the mechanical aspects of the transmission are ok.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
That is very weird. That's generally a very solid transmission, so I'm figuring it could easily be an engine/transmission adaptation issue. I would try the special procedure for aligning them and see if that helps. Sometimes the MAF can act up and make the trans malfunction without throwing a code, but failing to engage first doesn't fit with anything like that. I would think that the mechanical aspects of the transmission are ok.
I agree, I think the trans is fine. I suspect a software issue.. The changes in behavior were noticeable after I did the updates from the wiki..

Can you refer me to how I would go about aligning the trans/eng? Or where I find the special procedure your referring to? I did a quick search for that and found nothing..

Thx,
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:59 PM   #4
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You checked the ATF level. How exactly?
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:29 PM   #5
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Default +1; my question too

I don't want to just assume it was checked in the correct way. Unless one in familiar with the procedure, it's easy to do at least a couple of things wrong--even if seemingly reasonable--that can lead to the fluid level being anywhere from slightly off to way off, particularly on the low (too little) end.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt)
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 01-29-2014 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:18 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mishar View Post
You checked the ATF level. How exactly?
I had a '99 before this, so I did it the same way:

Jack up and level car> start and let trans fluid warm up to 30C> Open filler hole and check for fluid level, which should be around the top of the filler neck.

I just used my finger (sticking it up through the filler hole & bending it over the top) to check the atf oil level, so admittedly its a bit unscientific. But it was fine, the level is near the top of the filler neck where I thought it was supposed to be.. If I did something wrong or there is a correct/better way to check it please let me know.

The weird thing is I was playing with it again tonight (had to move it off the street), and this time I let it get to operating temp before even shifting to D. And it worked fine (not perfect, but fine) no hunting through gears, or racing on first. No problems shifting up through the gears or limp mode. It drove fine coming home.

I did a scan before I started the car & no problem codes w the trans, did another while it was warming up- nothing. Another after turning it off, nothing coming up. I know that sounds fine, but I bet if I go out in a few hours after it cools down it will act weird again..

If anyone has suggestions or pointers I'm all ears. At this point I'm still thinking I should change out the trans fluid & filter, have the dealer recode it & hope for the best. It's all I can think of doing to fix it.
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:27 PM   #7
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Default Sounds basically right

On the check, IIRC the temp is now 40C, plus you should overflow it at the opening rather than reach in. But those two probably roughly offset--the fluid volume expands a bit as it warms. Also supposed to shift it through the gears; I know that's hard in a non-lift scenario though. FWIW, I at least shift into D and R and load it just momentarily. But again, yours does sound close enough, particularly if it's about to get changed anyway where you can do it more accurately.

Then as far as next steps, I tend to agree. Drain fluid and change filter. You aren't describing anything that would indicate specifically the bigger bucks "blue" fluid--which also takes several drains to get the fluid type changed out). Thus I would just use the same "gold" it came with. There are a few other long shots I can think of, but fluid change would be a next logical one under the circumstances.
__________________
Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt)
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 02-02-2014, 08:33 AM   #8
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Default 6hp24a Shift SOLUTION

Quote:
Originally Posted by BerkNut View Post
Hi all, long time lurker and now I need advice. I bought a used D3 and have been sorting out its issues over the past month. So far I've been able to answer just about every question I come up with just by searching these forums, but this time I've hit a wall.

First a little car history-
It's an 04 D3, that was in a minor accident a couple of years ago, it damaged the front bumper and nothing else. Then it sat for two years before I came along to rescue it.. I've replaced the bumper (fog lights, parking sensors etc..) Bought a VAGCOM and worked my way through the fault codes that first showed up.. Now I have a couple still showing up-(rear brake pads that need to be replaced, eng mount open to ground, bad battery in telematics) but nothing I'm worried about.

Problem-
My issue is with the transmission, and I think specifically with the transmission controller.
It sat for long enough that the battery died. I've replaced it and coded the new battery and after a few run cycles most things have come back to normal except the trans.. At first it would go into limp mode right away after starting up and trying to drive(had a D2 also, so I know what that's like) and it would just act like crap, throw trans output mismatch codes etc.Until the trans warmed up and then it would drive fine. Also after warming up, it would not throw any trans codes. Weird right?
I've checked the trans fluid level (it's fine) and thinking it might be a viscosity issue, I was thinking of just upgrading the fluid and adding a new filter. Then getting the updated trans flash from the dealer. While searching this option I read on the Ross tech wiki that a Throttle body alignment (TBA) is recommended when the battery is disconnected. SO I just did that & it went fine..
The Ross Tech wiki also recommend setting the kick-down basic settings for the transmission control module after it is disconnected from the battery.. So I do that too..

And now it shifts like crap,, at first I thought is was fine as it seemed to go into gear at start-up when cold. But soon it was revving finding first gear. chunking from gear to gear, and not smooth at all. I stopped it at the end of the block and ran another self test, but no fault codes from the trans..

So I just walked back here and signed up to AudiWorld just to ask: does anyone know what is going on? Did I screw things up doing the TBA and kick-down procedures? If so is there a way to undo those changes? Or are there other procedures I still need to do to get it to play nice?

Any advice would be appreciated..
Thx
First I have and currently own 04 A8L, 01 S8 and 02 A8L and painstakingly researched all things ZF and I personally wrench on these MYSELF.

You need a REBUILT VALVE BODY. No fault codes in VAG = no electronic control issues. Do your own due diligence of course fisrt then Do yourself a favor and Take my advice. I used RevMax for my rebuilt valvebody. I worked with Frank.

http://www.revmaxconverters.com/inde...alve-body.html

You must replace the Trans adapter seal that is literally responsible for the seal of in and out flow of fluid/pressure between the pump and the valve body. To avoid confusion just go to dealer and get the right part the first time (around $30) this is difficult to find.

The fluid type issue has been beat to death in other forums. Problem is that many less informed enthusiasts try to fix their Transmission woes with fluid and filter when they really need rebuilt valve body. In The LAST 7 D2s that I have owned and my current 04 A8L daily driver. I PERSONALLY use Valvoline MaxLife (This is FULL SYNTHETIC). If Valvoline Guarantees compatibility good enough for me and proven with flawless shifting and many many 10s of thousands of miles in many cars. My 01 S8 has 199k miles and original ZF 5hp24a transmission with rebuild valve body.

That said I would recommend the kit from BlauParts because it has everything else you need (gasket, filter, extra hardware, transfer pump and fluid). Should satisfy the purest with its "golden honey colored German fluid". You should have At least 10 quarts/liters available. You will drop a lot more fluid by removing valve body than just filter change.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F2A1023-B


Final advice. I do a transmission fluid drain and fill on my cars EVERY YEAR regardless of miles. If you spend extra money on synthetic fluid for the most expensive part of your car (the engine) then why would you cheep out on the second most expensive part on your car(the Transmission)? I can do a drain and fill on my transmission faster than change my oil!
FACT even ZF admits that the fuild is spent at 70k miles. A drain and fill only changes 50% of fluid so you are really freshening up the fluid.

LOL at myself for using "cheep fluid from Walmart" less than $40 for 2 gallons of Valvoline MaxLife. Results speak for themselves.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by win72010 View Post
The LAST 7 D2s that I have owned and my current 04 A8L daily driver. I PERSONALLY use Valvoline MaxLife (This is FULL SYNTHETIC). If Valvoline Guarantees compatibility good enough for me and proven with flawless shifting and many many 10s of thousands of miles in many cars. My 01 S8 has 199k miles and original ZF 5hp24a transmission with rebuild valve body.
Now I totally agree with the red valvoline maxlife fluid on the old five speed 5hp24. I use that in my bimmer ever since I rebuilt the transmission and I've had great results so far. Now are you saying that you also use that fluid in a ZF 6HP26 six-speed?
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:09 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
Now I totally agree with the red valvoline maxlife fluid on the old five speed 5hp24. I use that in my bimmer ever since I rebuilt the transmission and I've had great results so far. Now are you saying that you also use that fluid in a ZF 6HP26 six-speed?
I'll second this. I've used Max Life in 5HP boxes with great success, but I personally wouldn't think of it in a 6HP.

Also, while clean fluid is certainly good, I think once a year is a bit excessive, unless you're driving 50k in said year.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:09 AM
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18t, 1997, 199k, a4, a8l, adjustment, audi, body, d3, it, limp, mode, procedure, quattro, throttle


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