disconnect battery overnight--now variant rpm...
#31
Ok, how to fix your problem(s):
1. Buy VCDS. Literally pointless continuing on without
2. Buy ElsaWin manuals for $15 off ebay
3. Listen to what we're telling you rather than just endlessly shotgun guessing about what it might be.
4. SAI has nothing to do with idle or vacuum control either. It's purely for emissions during warm up and essentially just blows air direct into the exhaust to speed up cat light off.
5. New MAF will very likely give strange throttle responses at low throttle openings as it's compensated over time to accommodate previously bad MAF.
6. System doesn't know MAF has been replaced so you need to re calibrate it by doing a throttle body alignment as detailed above.
7. Do all this and then report back to us.
1. Buy VCDS. Literally pointless continuing on without
2. Buy ElsaWin manuals for $15 off ebay
3. Listen to what we're telling you rather than just endlessly shotgun guessing about what it might be.
4. SAI has nothing to do with idle or vacuum control either. It's purely for emissions during warm up and essentially just blows air direct into the exhaust to speed up cat light off.
5. New MAF will very likely give strange throttle responses at low throttle openings as it's compensated over time to accommodate previously bad MAF.
6. System doesn't know MAF has been replaced so you need to re calibrate it by doing a throttle body alignment as detailed above.
7. Do all this and then report back to us.
but before that I want to get in there and clean it this weekend.
Question: should I be cleaning any other components in that area while I have it open. would there be anything to be done to the PVC while in the area in terms of cleaning or examining ?
the last tune up I did was at 140K/KM when thremo, belt, pump, plugs and filter were done. Now I am at 175K/KM.
As I said, all I seem to notice now is resistance on way up at 1000rpm and then and then a small fight to brake at 1000rpm (where it seems to push back on me trying to brake)
So until I clean the TB and scan I cannot give you final results.
#32
might have found the last part of this poor driving condition.
about 3 weeks ago I changed oil by just draining pan for 3 hours.
not knowing how much was left behind, I filled with 6L of Mobil1 10w-30
I was overfilled.
reading on symptoms of overfill, I began to realize that the issues could be some of those I was experiencing.
I felt I wasn't over by too much but I now think I was at about 1.5 L over....too much.
engine was running hot and acceleration was soft and weak. also had that needle jumping around 1000rpm.
so I drained again today via pan. gotta say the oil that came out didn't look only 3 weeks old. it was almost black but still had go viscosity imo.
went with 5w-40 instead.
result is the needle jumping around 1000rpm is gone and the sluggishness too. the rattle while climbing is also gone.
lesson learned and hope that nothing long term has occurred because of this.
never thought to much about it as I never saw oil burning from exhaust
about 3 weeks ago I changed oil by just draining pan for 3 hours.
not knowing how much was left behind, I filled with 6L of Mobil1 10w-30
I was overfilled.
reading on symptoms of overfill, I began to realize that the issues could be some of those I was experiencing.
I felt I wasn't over by too much but I now think I was at about 1.5 L over....too much.
engine was running hot and acceleration was soft and weak. also had that needle jumping around 1000rpm.
so I drained again today via pan. gotta say the oil that came out didn't look only 3 weeks old. it was almost black but still had go viscosity imo.
went with 5w-40 instead.
result is the needle jumping around 1000rpm is gone and the sluggishness too. the rattle while climbing is also gone.
lesson learned and hope that nothing long term has occurred because of this.
never thought to much about it as I never saw oil burning from exhaust
#35
#36
AudiWorld Senior Member
I have seen the results of using a non-approved weight oil on the v-8 engine. It isn't pretty. The cam shafts is what suffers most. That engine was designed for 5-40 synth oil. Using too thick an oil results in too little oil getting to places where it should.
Audi has a maximum mileage interval for oil changes. Changing the oil more frequently will result in cleaner engine internals.
Never overfill. It says so right on the dip stick.
Audi has a maximum mileage interval for oil changes. Changing the oil more frequently will result in cleaner engine internals.
Never overfill. It says so right on the dip stick.
#37
I have seen the results of using a non-approved weight oil on the v-8 engine. It isn't pretty. The cam shafts is what suffers most. That engine was designed for 5-40 synth oil. Using too thick an oil results in too little oil getting to places where it should.
Audi has a maximum mileage interval for oil changes. Changing the oil more frequently will result in cleaner engine internals.
Never overfill. It says so right on the dip stick.
Audi has a maximum mileage interval for oil changes. Changing the oil more frequently will result in cleaner engine internals.
Never overfill. It says so right on the dip stick.
I agree with the "40" part but in Canada with extreme temperature swings and an older hotter engine, the 0/5/10 are debatable (on the oil thread)
the 10-30 I used was rec by an indy. I didnt like how it felt and I had overfilled so drained it after 3 weeks.
put 5-40 syn in. feels good now.
splat!
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