engine surge
#11
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When the converter lock is engaged and engine is doing that all car would do the same. So, either converter lock is not fully engaged or that particular gear (probably 6th) clutch is not holding properly. Could be low ATF level or lazy solenoid, but it could be just instrument cluster or some other electronic gremlin. Can you hear that pulsing?
Now you know why MP is irreplaceable.
Now you know why MP is irreplaceable.
i'll dig threw the service records and see what i can find on fluid replacements / levels. i got lucky, the car came with a complete history in a folder
#12
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If the engine is not actually varying in RPM's (You'll need calibrated ears to detect) then your crankshaft position sensor could be on its way out. I noticed this a few weeks prior to when mine went bad resulting in a no-start condition with the engine hot. My variance was much less though. About 200 RPM's at most.
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If the engine is not actually varying in RPM's (You'll need calibrated ears to detect) then your crankshaft position sensor could be on its way out. I noticed this a few weeks prior to when mine went bad resulting in a no-start condition with the engine hot. My variance was much less though. About 200 RPM's at most.
#15
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When the converter lock is engaged and engine is doing that all car would do the same. So, either converter lock is not fully engaged or that particular gear (probably 6th) clutch is not holding properly. Could be low ATF level or lazy solenoid, but it could be just instrument cluster or some other electronic gremlin. Can you hear that pulsing?
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#17
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A few ideas...
Yet another thread BTW where it was harder to follow and participate in using linear mode, so just remembering a few things here as I respond:
Yes, as Misha first flagged, could be torque converter lock up. In turn, fluid check or even drain/refill might help. Could also simply try running a fresh tranny module (TCM/TCU) adaptation via VCDS to have it "relearn" shifting. From doing it once or twice now, adaptation can smooth things out in a meaningful way you wouldn't expect.
Mister Bally might also be on to something about a vacuum leak, particularly at a heat sensitive part/joint. Something like the combi valves (EGR side post warm up; pre warm up is air pump side) could be in play here too. But, I would expect the always (not) fun codes lean type codes if combi valves or vacuum is flaking. Or for another twist, something in the multistage intake system, though the first to second stage cut over point is supposed to be a lot higher RPM wise than OP is noting.
Yes, as Misha first flagged, could be torque converter lock up. In turn, fluid check or even drain/refill might help. Could also simply try running a fresh tranny module (TCM/TCU) adaptation via VCDS to have it "relearn" shifting. From doing it once or twice now, adaptation can smooth things out in a meaningful way you wouldn't expect.
Mister Bally might also be on to something about a vacuum leak, particularly at a heat sensitive part/joint. Something like the combi valves (EGR side post warm up; pre warm up is air pump side) could be in play here too. But, I would expect the always (not) fun codes lean type codes if combi valves or vacuum is flaking. Or for another twist, something in the multistage intake system, though the first to second stage cut over point is supposed to be a lot higher RPM wise than OP is noting.
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#19
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Make sure you do the whole driving cycle part of it
First you trigger the adaptation via VCDS. Then you do a driving cycle that takes about half an hour with some quiet roads (night is good!). It is laid out at the end of the "hoot" tranny TSB.
On mine, only right near the end of the 30 minutes was it becoming apparent to me it was smoothing out (post a fluld change I did and ultimately solenoid and a seal change out) and not just wishful thinking. It did take a seal and solenoid deep dive change out to resolve mine, and then on adaptation drive it went from still not right feeling at start to right there right now, shift like no tomorrow forever new car feel post adaptation. I think dealers may not do the adaptation by the book or kind of short cut it, but pre and post I could feel a real difference when I ran into the other issues.
On mine, only right near the end of the 30 minutes was it becoming apparent to me it was smoothing out (post a fluld change I did and ultimately solenoid and a seal change out) and not just wishful thinking. It did take a seal and solenoid deep dive change out to resolve mine, and then on adaptation drive it went from still not right feeling at start to right there right now, shift like no tomorrow forever new car feel post adaptation. I think dealers may not do the adaptation by the book or kind of short cut it, but pre and post I could feel a real difference when I ran into the other issues.
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