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Old 08-02-2014, 08:46 AM   #1
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Default A Fault Code Mess Ugh on my D3 S8

Newer member here and appreciate all the forum input. Has saved me so many times. Pretty much in learning mode still on my 2007 S8. Fabulous car but man my new best friend is my independent audi shop…… here's the CEL mess we are currently dealing with. Love my guys but not experienced with S8's (they are a high performance Audi, VM, Porsche shop but...) so I am trying to prioritize the potential problems:

Codes thrown as read via VAG-COM:

P1577-004 Open Circuit (005495-Right Engine Mount solenoid Valve (N145)

reco: replace mounts (engine mounts collapsing)

P2189-004 MIL ON (Bank 2, system too lean at idle- too much air intake at idle)

reco: checked vacum hoses and y connector for leaks (none), maybe needs new MAF?

P1647- 001- Intermittent (Check coding of ECU's (2) on power train Data Bus
reco: at a loss here, Bentley Manual says it could be coding issue on ECU's, brake electronics power train coding related to airbag control module adaptor, check brake electronics and ABS module.

reco: no f'n idea where to start

Mileage on car is about 52,300. Car is almost all original except all new gaskets and a colon blow at 45,000 miles LOL.

Go easy on my guys I have looked around the forum and have read up on just about everything I could but would like to get some confirmation (or not) on if the recommended fixes sync up with diagnosis.

Any thoughts would be appreciated………

Thanks from Atlanta

Last edited by dcc1433; 08-30-2014 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:58 AM   #2
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Re. Engine mount code: Ignore it. I've ignored mine for almost nine years. However, if engine mounts look like they are leaking brown goop, they need to be replaced. Just the code means nothing. Even a dealer once told me this.
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Bally View Post
Re. Engine mount code: Ignore it. I've ignored mine for almost nine years. However, if engine mounts look like they are leaking brown goop, they need to be replaced. Just the code means nothing. Even a dealer once told me this.


Thanks that's one I can "check off"!! But I will check the leaking goo. Much appreciated.
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:06 PM   #4
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Default On mounts, also...

look at the front torque support mount. That is a third mount for the motor, which should be far forward on the (US) passenger side. It is forward of the main mount. It has no solenoid or sensor in it, but at least for several of us with W12 and the same higher HP and torque has bee n known to crack. Likewise if it does, the brownish goo comes out and you will find it down the side of the mount area. On a W12 you can actually just barely see the mount from above without even pulling the air box. Loo near the front lower valve cover corner.

Bank 2 on the intake should be the drivers side, though its is a bit confusing when you deal with the O2 sensors, where B2S1 is the pre cat O2 sensor for the rear cylinders on the passenger side. In any case, check all your intake connections--the rubber boots from the air box to the throttle plate especially are the work of an extremely pissed off "Art" in Engineering when he had to shoehorn the twin boxes in. Also, another guess--if this is the drivers side and it is the same basic set up as the W12, the air pump takeoff for the hose is in the bottom of the drivers side air box. Unless you or the mechanic has dealt with it before, if anyone fooled with that air box and tried to get the bottom half out, it is a recipe for a broken hose or fitting below. That could drive a code like this I suppose, though it would still be pre-MAF. To get to that hose, you have to pull away the drivers side fender lining toward the front and then reach in and squeeze the plastic clamp fitting to un do it, or to snap it back together. Figure by now that air box has been out at least once. You would likely pull at least the top half to do the plugs at the first change (35K), and you have to pretty much take the whole box to get at the power steering reservoir to check it during service. If you want to check the hose without pulling everything out, take the upper half of the box out. Take the screws out that hold the lower half in--there are two or three around the sides. Then pull up. If it comes clear, of course the hose was not attached correctly. If it is basically stuck, don't use too much force. Just put it back together, with better comfort that hose is attached as it should be.

Failing this stuff, look at throttle body gasket and MAF. If the S8 is like the W12 again, there is also a Y type connector back behind the intake boot that plugs into it. On the W12 it is T shaped actually. Called the suction or "suck" valve or Y. On mine, I pulled by air box one day and the thing literally broke open on the base side of the T. Huge and very audible vacuum leak when I restarted without noticing. I managed to epoxy it back while I ordered a new one and changed it out. All those hoses are vacuum if there is an issue with anything in that set up.
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Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt)
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 08-03-2014, 04:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0 View Post
look at the front torque support mount. That is a third mount for the motor, which should be far forward on the (US) passenger side. It is forward of the main mount. It has no solenoid or sensor in it, but at least for several of us with W12 and the same higher HP and torque has bee n known to crack. Likewise if it does, the brownish goo comes out and you will find it down the side of the mount area. On a W12 you can actually just barely see the mount from above without even pulling the air box. Loo near the front lower valve cover corner.

Bank 2 on the intake should be the drivers side, though its is a bit confusing when you deal with the O2 sensors, where B2S1 is the pre cat O2 sensor for the rear cylinders on the passenger side. In any case, check all your intake connections--the rubber boots from the air box to the throttle plate especially are the work of an extremely pissed off "Art" in Engineering when he had to shoehorn the twin boxes in. Also, another guess--if this is the drivers side and it is the same basic set up as the W12, the air pump takeoff for the hose is in the bottom of the drivers side air box. Unless you or the mechanic has dealt with it before, if anyone fooled with that air box and tried to get the bottom half out, it is a recipe for a broken hose or fitting below. That could drive a code like this I suppose, though it would still be pre-MAF. To get to that hose, you have to pull away the drivers side fender lining toward the front and then reach in and squeeze the plastic clamp fitting to un do it, or to snap it back together. Figure by now that air box has been out at least once. You would likely pull at least the top half to do the plugs at the first change (35K), and you have to pretty much take the whole box to get at the power steering reservoir to check it during service. If you want to check the hose without pulling everything out, take the upper half of the box out. Take the screws out that hold the lower half in--there are two or three around the sides. Then pull up. If it comes clear, of course the hose was not attached correctly. If it is basically stuck, don't use too much force. Just put it back together, with better comfort that hose is attached as it should be.

Failing this stuff, look at throttle body gasket and MAF. If the S8 is like the W12 again, there is also a Y type connector back behind the intake boot that plugs into it. On the W12 it is T shaped actually. Called the suction or "suck" valve or Y. On mine, I pulled by air box one day and the thing literally broke open on the base side of the T. Huge and very audible vacuum leak when I restarted without noticing. I managed to epoxy it back while I ordered a new one and changed it out. All those hoses are vacuum if there is an issue with anything in that set up.
Fabulous input thanks…will get this to the shop right away. Hope it's not related to any catalytic converter issue, even though no concerns mentioned here. Again, big thanks!
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:23 AM   #6
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Default You're welcome. Also, O2 sensors...

One more thought: you don't really have the codes for it that I see/have run into, but the lean reading that drove your car to send the fault code has to come from somewhere--which should be from the forward (pre cat) O2 sensors. Folks with both W12's and S8's have had codes that seem to come from things as simple as finicky O2 connectors but no real problem otherwise. If I read yours right to be coming from the drivers side generally, look at the O2 connectors for that side. If the lock tab is broken by chance (BTDT), that's a give away the sensors have been unplugged before. Other folks-- and I--have had luck simply unplugging the sensors and putting some DeOxit type compound on the little terminals and then plugging them back in again. On the W12 all those connectors are by the (US) side passenger air box, but I think on the S8 people have said at least some driver's side ones are over on that same side.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt)
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 08-30-2014, 04:39 AM   #7
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Well, had to take the s8 to audi and it's been there a week with no update call. India shop just didn't have the time. Fear something bad is brewing ugh! First day they said worn engine mount leak, vac hose leak, said they had to drive it for awhile to check, then all went dark LOL. At least I am getting my worth on the $135 diagnosis charge!! More when I find out what's up.
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:20 AM   #8
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P1577-004 Open Circuit (005495-Right Engine Mount solenoid Valve (N145)

reco: replace mounts (engine mounts collapsing)

P2189-004 MIL ON (Bank 2, system too lean at idle- too much air intake at idle)

reco: checked vacum hoses and y connector for leaks (none), maybe needs new MAF?[/QUOTE]


The engine mounts are common to go on the S8 and W12 models.

As for the air intake code, I had the same issue I believe. I removed the intake on my 4.2 while changing the spark plugs. Hooked it all back up and slowly had a loud air noise in the engine after driving it for a bit. Turned out the intake that hooks to the back of the engine wasn't fully secured. Secured it and tightened it down properly and haven't had an issue since.
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Old 08-31-2014, 03:02 PM   #9
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Possible that the air intake tube is loose or compromised on the pass side causing the lean condition?
Also, after much searching, I found the proper diagram with placement for the 4 catalytic converters and related 02 sensors. Of course now I cannot find it. Bank1 is rearmost cat on pass side, bank2 is front cat pass side. Bank3 is rearmost cat on driver's side, Bank4 is the front cat on driver's side.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:23 PM   #10
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Default Thanks everyone

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Wasserwerks View Post
Possible that the air intake tube is loose or compromised on the pass side causing the lean condition?
Also, after much searching, I found the proper diagram with placement for the 4 catalytic converters and related 02 sensors. Of course now I cannot find it. Bank1 is rearmost cat on pass side, bank2 is front cat pass side. Bank3 is rearmost cat on driver's side, Bank4 is the front cat on driver's side.
Wanted to reply to all, thanks so much for the tremendous input. Well, the dealer had to call in AOA techs to figure out what's going on. Still no answer after 2 weeks. Vacuum hose leak was found but the other codes are baffling even the ATeam. I will pass along the latest comments and see if they have checked for them.

Worst thing is I got a stripped down A6 and it drives like a Lexus! Grateful for a free loaner but what a yawner! I bet this will be at least a 4 week visit perhaps with not a good fix or solution ugh!

Will keep all posted. Big thanks.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:23 PM
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