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I did my first spark plug change last weekend, and it more or less went ok, at least the first 4 did. Then on #5, I put the flat head screwdriver in the little black plastic clip, to unlock the harness from the coil, and it broke right off.
Moved on to #6, same procedure, another broken clip. Why oh why did they make these clips so "thin"? The remaining 2 came off without incident.
The harness seemed to clip back on to the "broken" clips securely and the car is running fine.
Basic general rule: screwdrivers or similar pry tools and Audi plastic wire clips, connectors and latches of ANY type don't get along, except when you basically want to break them/pry them out. Almost doesn't matter which specific one or type it is or how much experience you have. Even more so if it is heat soaked plastic, especially anything on top of or behind motor. BTDT, quite a few times over several modern Audis now. Thus, figure out the lock mechanism with only your fingers and fingernails, using one that is easier to see.
For plug coils specifically, there is a tool, if you mean where the coil pushes into the valve cover. The poor man's alternative is just slip a wire tie around it and fasten in a big open loop. Then pull on that.
If you mean the plug from the harness to the coil pack (like it sounds) and you now have some wounded ones, you can buy those as piece parts and replace them. What you basically do is crush and shatter the existing one with big pliers while not bending up the contacts/terminals. If the plastic is heat soaked brittle, they tend to shatter. If needed you can sometimes cut at the plastic with a utility knife. Then once you free up the terminals from the now destroyed connector, they just fit in to a replacement plug end you get from dealer. I've done that with O2 connectors, MAF connectors, coil pack connectors and various other assorted sensor connectors. What you don't want to do is either try to remove terminals individually (almost impossible and it tends to mess up the terminals from staying in securely) or splice in new ones (a bunch of work and maybe incremental issues; unless you have a known bad wire).
Yes, the broken ones will likely still stay on, but I wouldn't want to depend on it for 60K miles. When I break one and don't have a back up to re fit, if I have any doubts it will come loose I try to figure out a way to secure the connector with a wire tie somehow.
Thanks for the great info MP4.4. Attached pic is the black clip that broke on me.
Any suggestions where I could buy these?
Well looks like I spoke too soon yesterday, this morning driving in, the EPC light came on and the engine feels like I have a cylinder misfiring... Maybe I didn't push down one of the coils properly... or maybe these clips I broke are the issue. Will take a look tonight.
Thanks for the great info MP4.4. Attached pic is the black clip that broke on me.
Any suggestions where I could buy these?
Well looks like I spoke too soon yesterday, this morning driving in, the EPC light came on and the engine feels like I have a cylinder misfiring... Maybe I didn't push down one of the coils properly... or maybe these clips I broke are the issue. Will take a look tonight.
You want part 40. 4B0 973 724 (third digit in Audi numbers that is often "0" is always a zero FYI). $16.41 at audiusaparts--the Sunset Audi place in Portland I usually use; I'm in Bay Area like you. Two days almost always if simple/cheap USPS; as fast or faster than UPS. I can see part # at ECS, eBay, Europa and other places, but may be cheapest via the web dealer.
Pictures BTW from ECS site; they often have good close ups. Notice that purple U shaped thing in connector. 4B0973724 - Electrical Connector Housing - 4 Pin - ES#10979 You pull that out the side where that open area is before shattering connector. Starts to free up terminals. Do it w/ small watch/jewelers screwdriver blade; simply slides out. Likewise, when fitting new one, that retainer clip goes back in AFTER terminals refit--the terminals just slide in and softly lock w/ the tiny bent tab on terminals. Note color coding of each wire and position. Connector has #'s on it from 1 to 4 to help.
I have always used a 90* pick to undo them, as shown to me by an Audi tech. As long as you are gentle and understand how they work I've never had one break on me.
As to breaking the connectors, and how to avoid it:
Push the connector housing towards the coil (means pushing it from the cable end towards the coil), THEN with your FINGER, NOT with an tool, pull the retainer backwards towards the wiring harness.
If you want to be 99,9% sure not to break the housing retainer, take a securing needle (ones you used in old times for clothing), bend the end 1/4" / 5mm of the needle 90º, and undo the retainer from the COIL end of the plug with it. 99,9% sure you won't break anything. And here too of course, first push the connector towards the coil, then unclip.
As for the part number, here's a cheaper alternative:
8K0973724 costs 2,5€ on the parts list, while the
4B0973724 costs 11€
1J0973724 costs same 11€
Both exactly same as you can see, the first is meant for the 4B (A6 1995-2003) chassis, and the other for 8K (A4 2008-2015). The 1J part costs same as the 4B. All should be exactly same part, as you can see that the 6 last digits are the same.
07-07-2015, 02:59 PM
First Spark Plug Chage
