Inner tie rod DIY list
#1
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Inner tie rod DIY list
Just knocked the front left mine out this weekend, here's a list of things that will make this a 45min job:
TRW tie rod, part no W01331795388TRW:
37mm crow's foot wrench to bread the inner tie rod lose off the rack:
Assorted crow's feet to loosen up the outer tie rod nut and get the inner off it (need 22 and 23mm iirc):
Replacement 58-75m clamp for the boot on the rack:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1892459/
Replacement 20-32mm clamp for the boot on the inner:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2939/
Pretty simple to do with the above tools, essentially just pull the oem clamp off the boot on the rack (screwdriver and lots of swearing), pull the boot back towards you and then use the 37mm crows foot to break the inner tie rod nut lose. Remove the outer tie rod off the hub and then just unscrew the inner off the rack. Measure the distance on the outer (so you don't throw off your alignment), replace the inner and put it back in.
The 58-75mm hose clamp makes it a lot easier to put the boot back on, there's literally zero space for hose clamps. I ended up using an 8mm wrench to turn the clamp screw about 45 degrees at a time.
Edit: I should add that i used liberal amounts of blue threadlock on anything threaded on the inner.
TRW tie rod, part no W01331795388TRW:
37mm crow's foot wrench to bread the inner tie rod lose off the rack:
Assorted crow's feet to loosen up the outer tie rod nut and get the inner off it (need 22 and 23mm iirc):
Replacement 58-75m clamp for the boot on the rack:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1892459/
Replacement 20-32mm clamp for the boot on the inner:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2939/
Pretty simple to do with the above tools, essentially just pull the oem clamp off the boot on the rack (screwdriver and lots of swearing), pull the boot back towards you and then use the 37mm crows foot to break the inner tie rod nut lose. Remove the outer tie rod off the hub and then just unscrew the inner off the rack. Measure the distance on the outer (so you don't throw off your alignment), replace the inner and put it back in.
The 58-75mm hose clamp makes it a lot easier to put the boot back on, there's literally zero space for hose clamps. I ended up using an 8mm wrench to turn the clamp screw about 45 degrees at a time.
Edit: I should add that i used liberal amounts of blue threadlock on anything threaded on the inner.
Last edited by halik; 07-11-2014 at 09:24 PM.
#3
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Thnks, Halik
Just knocked the front left mine out this weekend, here's a list of things that will make this a 45min job:
...
Pretty simple to do with the above tools, essentially just pull the oem clamp off the boot on the rack (screwdriver and lots of swearing), pull the boot back towards you and then use the 37mm crows foot to break the inner tie rod nut lose. Remove the outer tie rod off the hub and then just unscrew the inner off the rack. Measure the distance on the outer (so you don't throw off your alignment), replace the inner and put it back in.
The 58-75mm hose clamp makes it a lot easier to put the boot back on, there's literally zero space for hose clamps. I ended up using an 8mm wrench to turn the clamp screw about 45 degrees at a time.
...
Pretty simple to do with the above tools, essentially just pull the oem clamp off the boot on the rack (screwdriver and lots of swearing), pull the boot back towards you and then use the 37mm crows foot to break the inner tie rod nut lose. Remove the outer tie rod off the hub and then just unscrew the inner off the rack. Measure the distance on the outer (so you don't throw off your alignment), replace the inner and put it back in.
The 58-75mm hose clamp makes it a lot easier to put the boot back on, there's literally zero space for hose clamps. I ended up using an 8mm wrench to turn the clamp screw about 45 degrees at a time.
I've never "tagged" a post but I might try this one. Needs to be at the top of search for inner tie rod ends ( inner TRE)
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#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
What are you replacing
THIS is a useful post. I'm doing my outers just 'cause I have them disconnected while I do everything else that's replaceable; have a feeling I might need to bookmark this.
I've never "tagged" a post but I might try this one. Needs to be at the top of search for inner tie rod ends ( inner TRE)
I've never "tagged" a post but I might try this one. Needs to be at the top of search for inner tie rod ends ( inner TRE)
What are you replacing in the front end?
I had read the front upper control arm bushings and the lower are the same. I dropped the belly pan last weekend and looked them over. The lower look larger. But never hear of the lowers failing. Same with the rears. My sway bar bushings look perfect front and rear.
I am getting some use out of the Rhino ramps. With a sloping drive it is easy to get it level.
#5
AudiWorld Member
Some questions:
1) Did you adjust the steering rack valve to give some stiffness back to your handling? I read that there is a nut which is reachable after the inner/outer tie rod has been pulled. I plan to play with that a little before putting the new parts back on.
2) How long of an extension did you use for the crows foot? Will a breaker bar be sufficient or am i going to need more leverage?
3) I like that you went with normal hose clamps. I have heard the normal CV compression clamp is a pain in the butt. I ordered a few of them and was going to try it, but ill get these as a backup.
4) did you put the whole car on jack stands or just jack up one side? If you put the whole front end up, can you describe a bit of where you hdad your jack points for the safest lift? Did you jack one side, put the jack stand, then jack the other, and put another jack stand? I have never had to lift both wheels off the ground and am a bit anxious.
1) Did you adjust the steering rack valve to give some stiffness back to your handling? I read that there is a nut which is reachable after the inner/outer tie rod has been pulled. I plan to play with that a little before putting the new parts back on.
2) How long of an extension did you use for the crows foot? Will a breaker bar be sufficient or am i going to need more leverage?
3) I like that you went with normal hose clamps. I have heard the normal CV compression clamp is a pain in the butt. I ordered a few of them and was going to try it, but ill get these as a backup.
4) did you put the whole car on jack stands or just jack up one side? If you put the whole front end up, can you describe a bit of where you hdad your jack points for the safest lift? Did you jack one side, put the jack stand, then jack the other, and put another jack stand? I have never had to lift both wheels off the ground and am a bit anxious.
#6
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Tom,
What are you replacing in the front end?
I had read the front upper control arm bushings and the lower are the same. I dropped the belly pan last weekend and looked them over. The lower look larger. But never hear of the lowers failing. Same with the rears. My sway bar bushings look perfect front and rear...
What are you replacing in the front end?
I had read the front upper control arm bushings and the lower are the same. I dropped the belly pan last weekend and looked them over. The lower look larger. But never hear of the lowers failing. Same with the rears. My sway bar bushings look perfect front and rear...
I think that covers it.
Some questions
...
4) did you put the whole car on jack stands or just jack up one side? If you put the whole front end up, can you describe a bit of where you hdad your jack points for the safest lift? Did you jack one side, put the jack stand, then jack the other, and put another jack stand? I have never had to lift both wheels off the ground and am a bit anxious.
...
4) did you put the whole car on jack stands or just jack up one side? If you put the whole front end up, can you describe a bit of where you hdad your jack points for the safest lift? Did you jack one side, put the jack stand, then jack the other, and put another jack stand? I have never had to lift both wheels off the ground and am a bit anxious.
I'm thinking of measuring the radius of the factory jack's socket in the car's body and making one out of wood; then I could just jack it up at the easier-to-access factory points and skip a step. I suppose the area around the factory jack receptacle could support the car without the round thing but I'd rather not take the chance.
Also I recommend chocking the wheels securely; I use a dead-blow hammer to get the 2X4 pieces under the tire somewhat.
Wait til you need all FOUR wheels off the ground!
-Tom
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Some answers from when I did it:
1. Yes, I adjusted the rack. Yes it is accessible. Can only turn an open end wrench like 1/10 turn at a time, but do-able. Didn't take much to firm it up--actually had to back it off when I got it too tight at first.
2. Std. breaker bar was fine on mine, though as a CA (non snow belt) car, it might not have been as hard as some.
3. Yes compression clamps a pain. Do-able w/ effort. May take an extra one before you get the crimping acceptable.
4. I just did one side at a time. The one part that doesn't work well for is the rack tensioning (question 1). You really need the rack free to move on both wheels to feel when the steering is either still loose or starting to bind as you turn the nut. As a possible work around, with a floor jack and the car on an uphill slope (ALWAYS w/ a block behind the diagonally opposite rear tire) like my driveway has, I find I can get both front wheels off the ground if I jack it up aggressively with the floor jack. Either that, or I would pull the belly pan and look for places to place jack stands.
2. Std. breaker bar was fine on mine, though as a CA (non snow belt) car, it might not have been as hard as some.
3. Yes compression clamps a pain. Do-able w/ effort. May take an extra one before you get the crimping acceptable.
4. I just did one side at a time. The one part that doesn't work well for is the rack tensioning (question 1). You really need the rack free to move on both wheels to feel when the steering is either still loose or starting to bind as you turn the nut. As a possible work around, with a floor jack and the car on an uphill slope (ALWAYS w/ a block behind the diagonally opposite rear tire) like my driveway has, I find I can get both front wheels off the ground if I jack it up aggressively with the floor jack. Either that, or I would pull the belly pan and look for places to place jack stands.
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#8
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#9
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My other big question is why not remanufacture this part as well as the control arms? In my career in industrial supply I've learned a lot about rubber and it would seem to be an easy job to replace the old rubber with new. Ball joints, I dunno.
I know aluminum is infinitely recyclable but c'mon, there's a business opportunity there one would think SOMEone would exploit!
The bar connects one side to the other, no? Otherwise why not have a short one on each end?