Having some problems with my car. This is what I got with the vagcom scan.
05-01-2016, 04:06 PM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Having some problems with my car. This is what I got with the vagcom scan.
Car runs very rough to the point that it stalls. It is a 2010 A8 with 70k miles. Could it be carbon build up? I will try and upload a video.
<a href="http://s55.photobucket.com/user/blazej01/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjj9cnf0t.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/blazej01/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjj9cnf0t.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zpsjj9cnf0t.jpeg"/></a>
<a href="http://s55.photobucket.com/user/blazej01/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswsccz3yx.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/blazej01/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswsccz3yx.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zpswsccz3yx.jpeg"/></a>
<a href="http://s55.photobucket.com/user/blazej01/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjj9cnf0t.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/blazej01/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjj9cnf0t.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zpsjj9cnf0t.jpeg"/></a>
<a href="http://s55.photobucket.com/user/blazej01/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswsccz3yx.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/blazej01/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswsccz3yx.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zpswsccz3yx.jpeg"/></a>
05-01-2016, 04:44 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Neither of those faults have happened recently, both were last recorded in December. Assuming the date in your car is set correctly, I wouldn't suspect those are related to your current problem. Did the rough running come on suddenly or has it been gradually getting worse? Does it still run rough with throttle applied or is it only at idle? Did any service, car wash, or fuel added precede the fault?
05-01-2016, 05:19 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
It does run rough with throttle applied. I have acquired this car from my brother that he bought at the auction. I don't know if it was a sudden thing or it got worse over time. Car was parked for a long time, and I had to replace the battery, so the date is incorrect. I have cleared the codes but they come back. Thanks.
05-01-2016, 05:39 PM
#4
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Trying to get those videos up. Hopefully they work.
http://vid55.photobucket.com/albums/...pszozwbzkq.mp4
http://vid55.photobucket.com/albums/...pspc7ledwb.mp4
http://vid55.photobucket.com/albums/...pszozwbzkq.mp4
http://vid55.photobucket.com/albums/...pspc7ledwb.mp4
Last edited by blazej01; 05-01-2016 at 05:49 PM. Reason: video link
05-02-2016, 08:39 AM
#5
A few thoughts
Make sure the battery is the correct one for the car and is fully charged. These cars develop strange issues when the voltage is low.
Looks like you are low on gas too. Get some fresh super in that tank who knows how old it is.
Start with the basics.
Are you friendly with a local Audi dealership? Would be valuable to get the service records if you can.
What motor is in the car? 4.2 right?
Looks like you are low on gas too. Get some fresh super in that tank who knows how old it is.
Start with the basics.
Are you friendly with a local Audi dealership? Would be valuable to get the service records if you can.
What motor is in the car? 4.2 right?
Last edited by RobertV; 05-02-2016 at 08:47 AM.
05-02-2016, 09:26 AM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
I know your post from the other board. I watched the videos too. Net, I don't think you have enough diagnostics to get anywhere here. As already noted, the light show you have going on in the video if anything is a distraction from getting to apparent issues.
As before, I'm suspicious of your codes because you have one suggesting ABS module is fried. Yet, you don't have the obvious lights on in the panel to tie to that.
Suggestions:
1. As noted, get battery fully charged. If it isn't, a lot of this stuff can be flaky. Have it charged BEFORE you do the code work I mention next, and have it on a charger.
2. Set clock. You want it accurate to read the scans. Note issues with date stamping folks have already caught.
3. Try again to clear codes. On the ABS one, run though all the possible modules. Better, do a scan for all modules and see what ones show codes. Save it but then clear. Clear modules one by one. The auto clear function does not clean them all in VCDS, from D3 specific experience. Minor note, but might as well turn off TPMS too if you aren't going to clean up sensors. At 6 years in, they are probably gone. Or, as an interim work around, you could go into MMI and do a reset for wheel change for now just to get rid of that dash distraction while trying to diagnose the more serious issues.
4. After that, standard diagnostic techniques. Think about things like big vacuum leak, bad throttle assembly (or loose connecting hoses post MAF), bad MAF or its connector or connection, problems with tank fuel pumps, problems with HPFP. As in, a lot of scenarios here that are all just guessing without better diagnostics, coupled with a code I think hardly exists/is seen on D3's.
As before, I'm suspicious of your codes because you have one suggesting ABS module is fried. Yet, you don't have the obvious lights on in the panel to tie to that.
Suggestions:
1. As noted, get battery fully charged. If it isn't, a lot of this stuff can be flaky. Have it charged BEFORE you do the code work I mention next, and have it on a charger.
2. Set clock. You want it accurate to read the scans. Note issues with date stamping folks have already caught.
3. Try again to clear codes. On the ABS one, run though all the possible modules. Better, do a scan for all modules and see what ones show codes. Save it but then clear. Clear modules one by one. The auto clear function does not clean them all in VCDS, from D3 specific experience. Minor note, but might as well turn off TPMS too if you aren't going to clean up sensors. At 6 years in, they are probably gone. Or, as an interim work around, you could go into MMI and do a reset for wheel change for now just to get rid of that dash distraction while trying to diagnose the more serious issues.
4. After that, standard diagnostic techniques. Think about things like big vacuum leak, bad throttle assembly (or loose connecting hoses post MAF), bad MAF or its connector or connection, problems with tank fuel pumps, problems with HPFP. As in, a lot of scenarios here that are all just guessing without better diagnostics, coupled with a code I think hardly exists/is seen on D3's.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-02-2016 at 09:32 AM.
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05-02-2016, 06:07 PM
#8
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
1. Fuel added 6 gallons BP 93.
2. Unplugged the MAF. With it unplugged it would not even start.
05-02-2016, 06:20 PM
#9
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I know your post from the other board. I watched the videos too. Net, I don't think you have enough diagnostics to get anywhere here. As already noted, the light show you have going on in the video if anything is a distraction from getting to apparent issues.
As before, I'm suspicious of your codes because you have one suggesting ABS module is fried. Yet, you don't have the obvious lights on in the panel to tie to that.
Suggestions:
1. As noted, get battery fully charged. If it isn't, a lot of this stuff can be flaky. Have it charged BEFORE you do the code work I mention next, and have it on a charger.
2. Set clock. You want it accurate to read the scans. Note issues with date stamping folks have already caught.
3. Try again to clear codes. On the ABS one, run though all the possible modules. Better, do a scan for all modules and see what ones show codes. Save it but then clear. Clear modules one by one. The auto clear function does not clean them all in VCDS, from D3 specific experience. Minor note, but might as well turn off TPMS too if you aren't going to clean up sensors. At 6 years in, they are probably gone. Or, as an interim work around, you could go into MMI and do a reset for wheel change for now just to get rid of that dash distraction while trying to diagnose the more serious issues.
4. After that, standard diagnostic techniques. Think about things like big vacuum leak, bad throttle assembly (or loose connecting hoses post MAF), bad MAF or its connector or connection, problems with tank fuel pumps, problems with HPFP. As in, a lot of scenarios here that are all just guessing without better diagnostics, coupled with a code I think hardly exists/is seen on D3's.
As before, I'm suspicious of your codes because you have one suggesting ABS module is fried. Yet, you don't have the obvious lights on in the panel to tie to that.
Suggestions:
1. As noted, get battery fully charged. If it isn't, a lot of this stuff can be flaky. Have it charged BEFORE you do the code work I mention next, and have it on a charger.
2. Set clock. You want it accurate to read the scans. Note issues with date stamping folks have already caught.
3. Try again to clear codes. On the ABS one, run though all the possible modules. Better, do a scan for all modules and see what ones show codes. Save it but then clear. Clear modules one by one. The auto clear function does not clean them all in VCDS, from D3 specific experience. Minor note, but might as well turn off TPMS too if you aren't going to clean up sensors. At 6 years in, they are probably gone. Or, as an interim work around, you could go into MMI and do a reset for wheel change for now just to get rid of that dash distraction while trying to diagnose the more serious issues.
4. After that, standard diagnostic techniques. Think about things like big vacuum leak, bad throttle assembly (or loose connecting hoses post MAF), bad MAF or its connector or connection, problems with tank fuel pumps, problems with HPFP. As in, a lot of scenarios here that are all just guessing without better diagnostics, coupled with a code I think hardly exists/is seen on D3's.
1. I got a new battery from Advanced Auto Parts. I have a charger on it while I work on the car it is 100% charged.
2. Forgot to set the clock.
3. I did everything you have mentioned, but no luck.
4. Looked around for any leaks or loose plugs, but couldn't see anything out of the ordinary.
Few questions?
1. How would I check for fuel pump? If they are working correctly?
2. What is HPFP?
3. How can I do better diagnostics so we can narrow the problem down?
4. How are those cars with carbon build up? Could that be it?
Thank you guys for your time, and help!!!
05-02-2016, 06:25 PM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Have you looked at basics like air intake hoses all connected after MAF? Unplugged or broken big vacuum like the suck valve or the brake booster hose. Think of fuel as possible too--either main tank low pressure feed pumps, or high pressure pump. As you know, I really don't trust the quality of the scan you have and if the MAF unplugging is behaving like that I would expect fuel related codes and maybe misfire codes.
If you want to try one other old school diagnostic since scan doesn't seem to be much help so far, leave MAF unplugged and try some Ether. Assuming it starts and sort of runs if you keep goosing it with a quick spray of Ether every few seconds, it is also suggesting you have a big vacuum leak or a basic fuel problem.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-02-2016 at 06:28 PM.