Mister Bally

So my blower motor has been working erratically for the past few weeks. Works fine on cold start up and then peters out. Then works for a minute or two and then nothing. Not an issue with highway driving (I had a '74 VW Beetle so I was used to this) but sucked in the city.

I bought a new motor since I have had previous Audi's and know that the brushes in their motors have a very finite life. The job was a PITA on my '87 5000CSq but surprisingly easier on my D3. Had Ballykid help. I wanted him to see how the ventilation system works and replace one of these motors so he will be able to in the future. All work is under the hood unlike my other Audi's.

Remove the cabin air filter and intake assembly below as well as wiper assembly. The aluminum crush zone thingy ($450.00 for a pound of aluminum) comes out first. That's what Ballykid is removing in the first photo.

It's not a German car repair unless blood is drawn!

Dr.Aronis

Sweet! Gloves?? LOL.

That blower is pretty large. Two fans.

I changed the blower in my RS last year. It's inside on the passenger side. Luckily no blood loss on the one.

But the new headlight bulbs was a different story. Too tight of a space to wear gloves. Much blood shed.

I keep an old model "cell saver" on hand for larger DIY jobs

Mike

Mister Bally

Look in the background of the first photo.... THREE boxes of nitrile gloves; Medium , heavy and super heavy duty versions. First time neither one of us wore them. In our defense getting at and holding on to some of the shroud screws would be a somewhat valid excuse for not wearing them.

Brozee

So is the motor that whole piece with the white fans? That is the whole assembly?

Also how much was the part? I will for sure take you for a spin in the W12 should I come up with any repairs on my 4.2 and need assistance!

MP4.2+6.0

1. Good to see in the flesh as it were, including the left and right sides really are separately fan driven instead of trying to compromise it w/ one actual blower (and single downstream heater panel) like most vehicles do where they try to use blend doors to get temp. control on the two sides.

2. BTDT like you on an old C3 5000--relative nightmare there having to pull the HVAC unit both underdash and underhood IIRC. C5 is easy from having BTDT too--drop glove box and you stare right at it...they learned from the C3.

3. Take a look again at that overpriced crush bar as you describe it. It may have that purpose as well, but it also looks like it is part of a very nicely thought out upper strut tie bar design; something often sold aftermarket for other makes for several hundred a copy, let alone that any of the aftermarket guys would ever even think of doing for a low volume Audi.

Mister Bally

The motor is only sold with both squirrel cage fans. $255.00

Photo is of the old assembly, note the discolored fan fins from the brush carbon dust.

Mister Bally

It is only one motor with a center mounted shaft so the separate fans spin at the same speed.

On my C3 I took it all apart and replaced the brushes in the motor (made my own by modifying power tool brushes) which lasted less than two years. Then took it all apart again and replaced the motor. At junkyards, you see that scrappers go in under the hood and tear out the motors destroying the flap-o-matic box.


Good thought on the aluminum piece as it does indeed bolt to the strut towers.

snapdragon

I've gone onto stretchy cotton gloves for many jobs that don't involve lots of fluids and can highly recommend them, similar to what curators wear.
I think they are mostly sold for severe exzema and burns. You can get them on ebay "cotton gloves".
They stop all the rash, cuts and scratches, kepp your hands clean, but they can still breathe. They also don't snag and rip like latex/nitrile/vynyl.
Sometimes I wear the former underneath. You can also wash them and reuse.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350598265072

MN-A8

That looks a lot easier than I thought it would be. My fan has developed a slight squeaking noise over the last week, and happens at random. Weirdly the noise goes away after a few minutes. Its been pretty cold in MN recently with lows down to -20F so that could be the cause as well.

I'm thinking something might need to be lubricated... It there any noticeable spot to do this on your old fan?

Mister Bally

Once the assembly is removed, you can see thebearing at the brush "end" of the motor. There is a hole at the other end of the motor that you may be able to spary a lubricant in as well. Keep in mind that whatever scent the lubricant has will be dispersed into the cabin of the vehicle.

The squirrel cage fans can be removed from the motor shaft, there are spring clamps that can be removed and then the fans slide off. Might need a puller as my motor shaft was rusted making it larger in size.

I'm a cheapskate as many here know. That said, If I was disassembling everything to get to the motor, I would replace it. Again, the brushes on these motors have a finite life.