mishar

+1

I would also bleed the system. Air can interrupt heating. Bleeder valves are under the plenum trim just to the right of the cabin air filter.

alh3010

I had the same problem, firstly the heater valves were replaced and that cured the cold hoses, but still no hot air to the cabin. Audi checked it and found out that it was the defroster motor which is in the middle of the dash. the whole dashboard had to be removed at a cost of 958 pounds. They had the car in and out of the garage for a total of 6 weeks as they broke parts. I now have hot air but it was at a cost. Audi are good at servicing but when it comes to work like this they had never done it before! I hope this info helps

Mister Bally

for my D3, the motor was pretty easy. Windshield wiper motor and linkage had to come out but all in all, less than 3 hours for my son & I to do.

Now, my '87 5000CSq (200tq in Great Britan), that is a huge PITA.

Amiko Tsanava

Hello.

I'm trying to repair 4E0959617A heating valves.
Has anyone tried to do it?
I have disassembled the whole item and cleaned it. After assembling back again, I can clearly see that those valves wont open anyway, though everything is clean there now.
May be rubber gaskets or soles need to be replaced. I don't know. But I know that this item can be repaired.
any advice would be appreciated so much.
I think that this item is not replaceable and it can be repaired.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Can you remove the valves and let the water free flow to see if it's the culprit?

Amiko Tsanava

I can clearly see that the reason is in those valves. They won't open at all. That's the reason I removed this item and trying to find some way to fix it.

those valves have some rubber soles inside. They block (when not pushed by the electromagnets) or release (when pushed by the electromagnets) coolant from flowing into the HVAC (climate control) radiator.

When those valves are closed, you won't get any heat in the saloon. That's the reason I removed it and tried to manipulate them with my hands to exclude the electromagnets issue. Trying to push those valves with hands but still no result.

Disassembled the whole item, cleaned it, assembled back but still no result yet. Those rubber soles are blocking coolant flow anyway. They won't let me push those valves and move them downwards to open the channels for coolant to flow inside the heat radiators.

The only thing I can think about is that those rubber gaskets/soles on the valves itself became thicker (I can't imagine how that could happen) and now the valves are unable to move up/down.





I have cleaned there everything.
But when I put back together those valves housing, they remain blocked.
Mystery. But that's the truth.

I was thinking about taking off one of the rubber soles and cut them to make thinner to make there more space for valves for moving and that would give me the result.

I just wonder how did thay change in size. They are supposed to be heat resistant and remain unchanged and do their up and down moves, unless they are clogged.

In my case, I have cleaned every detail but still valves are blocking the coolant from flowing into the HVAC radiator.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Sometimes we break the system because we can open them up without understanding how things work. Solenoid is controlled electrically, if you apply the signal and it actuated, then it works. The more you modified, the worst it will get. I had no heat before and I didn't have to do all this to get it working. Let the control system manage itself.

Amiko Tsanava

The main thing is that those solenoids work.
problem is not in solenoids.