ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Alright, I've done it and after reading all these warnings from people, I just followed the video from VCDS and use simple logic to change my brake pads. As long as you have the $350 VCDS and a laptop, you can get it done pretty quickly. If the brake jobs out there are less than $350, then you may just let them to do it if you don't want to spend the $350 + laptop. People are reluctant to buy the VCDS because they're afraid to use the laptop and not the money (my experience with some of my friends and family members).
Again, this is the way I did mine, I'm sure there are many ways to skin a cat.

BTW, the tires are almost 30k miles, I think I have to replace them soon, on a 19", is it normal?


Cheers and enjoy,

Louis

aTOMic

Thanks for posting this. Where did you get the pads?(for $40)?
I'm curious as to why you did the brakes when the warning light wasn't on. Good thing you did, though.
Did the warning come on for the front ones when you did them @77k?

-Tom

Galco

On rear tires, 30K miles is pretty good. My soft summer Hankooks only got about 20K. Newest set are all season Hankooks in hopes to get closer to warrantied 40K miles. Will see.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

at 77k, but not the rear. So the rear can last 15k miles longer than the front.

Here is the link for the Bendix I bought
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063T02U0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&cre ativeASIN=B0063T02U0&linkCode=as2&tag=dognmonkey-20&linkId=UNDSBGTELR5WHPAR">Bendix MKD1018 Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Set</a><img src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dognmonkey-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0063T02U0" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

wheel, worn out from the inside a little more. Anyhow, 20k miles is too fast. I'm going to see if these will last 35k.

Cheers,

Louis

SoCalJ

Thank you for the post. Did you ever try it with the non-rosstech cable?

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Here is my take about non-rosstech ($30) vs rosstech ($350):
-If you plan to keep the car and fix the brakes yourself - tools are required - must pay - Not just this version but my next Audi will also be eBrakes and $350 will be there (I hope) and supported.
-When it comes to messing around with signals controlling modules and stuff - I preferred the original - I'm sure the signal integrity is much cleaner than the cheaper version. When the signals communication serially and if a bit is missing due to noisy signal and change the outcome of the output and causes damage to my car computer... No thank you.
-Do it right so I don't have to worry about side effects of cheaper versions.
-I can afford it because when I bought this A8L with EPB brakes, I calculated the total cost of my car with this cable in it.

I read your other posts and you're having problems without and VCDS, and still procrastinate about getting cheap or full version while your car is sick - I would just get a $30 for now to scan the problems to fix the current problems - then when the time comes, buy the $350 if have to do the brakes if finance is the concern.
With all the money I've been saving by buying tools, fixing the house, the cars, I've been taking family to vacations and stuff.

Cheers,

Louis