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Old 12-03-2013, 08:25 AM   #1
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Default i know another stinking led ?

I have changed out my daytime running bulbs and also the parking light bulbs. replaced them with leds from superbright leds the canbus kind. still getting error codes are there any bulbs available from anywhere that will work and not throw codes it is a 2006 a8. I really like the look of the leds
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:50 AM   #2
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There is no such thing as CANBUS bulbs.
You have to recode for LED DRLs and then join the +ve from the sidelights to the +ve on the DRLs, then they don't make error codes and dim at night like the originals.

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=7192
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Last edited by snapdragon; 12-03-2013 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:24 AM   #3
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is there no way to just replace the bulb to not get the error. I cannot afford a vag com at the moment to do this plan on getting one in the spring.
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:09 AM   #4
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Default Do it right and enjoy the LEDs

This is how I did mine, no codes, no burn out, no warning, 6 months already. You're right, there is no way to just replace bulbs and NOT getting errors.

Cheers,

Louis
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:25 PM   #5
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I guess I must be a dumb*** I have no clue what you are talking about doing with all that the ptc rload. do you care to elaborate for me step by step thx
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwilly1 View Post
I guess I must be a dumb*** I have no clue what you are talking about doing with all that the ptc rload. do you care to elaborate for me step by step thx
PTC is just a little reset-able fuse - You can search and find the cheap ones, I think radio shack may have them.
Every PTC has its own specs, when the current is over the designed specs, it will get hot and pop open. The good thing is when the voltage is not there, it's just a fuse = .5 to 3 ohms just like a resistant of a tungsten bulb.
In the circuit I'd drawn, 3 things are connected parallel, the PTC, Rload and the LED bulb.
Here is how a tungsten bulb resistance behaves, cold = 3ohms, hot = 30-60 ohm, so when no voltage applies, PTC sits as .5-3ohms (the sensor detects that and happy), then when the light switch turns on, PTC gets hot 12.5v/3ohms = 4A current over the design current of .1-.2A, and pops open (high resistance), at this time the Rload of 30-35ohm takes over maintain the 250mA to your LED, the sensor is happy and your LEDs are on without over current also.
As soon as the switch is off, the PTC reset and becomes a fuse again (.5-3ohms).

Parallel resistance of all three components is less than the lowest resistance which is the PTC//Rload//LED.

The sensor sees PTC resistance when cold, when it's open (hot), it sees the Rload//LED ~ Rload (30-35ohms) because the LED resistance is about 80 ohms. The reason it doesn't throw a code even if LED is burned out, because it always sees RLoad 30-35ohms.

For 5w parking bulb 2825 I used RLoad = 60 ohms 10W.
For 26w DRL bulb 1156 I used Rload = 35 ohms 50W.
For License plate LEDS, I don't use Rload, just PTC.

"Current and resistance
The actual resistance of the filament is temperature-dependent. The cold resistance of tungsten-filament lamps is about 1/15 the hot-filament resistance when the lamp is operating. For example, a 100-watt, 120-volt lamp has a resistance of 144 ohms when lit, but the cold resistance is much lower (about 9.5 ohms)"

I don't know if it makes sense, but that's how the circuit works.

Cheers,

Louis
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Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 12-03-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
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something like this http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Euro-Audi-H...=Y&Search=Audi
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:22 PM   #8
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Default half of the circuit - some work - some don't - throw a dice

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwilly1 View Post
So, the Rload they use must be very small 3-6ohms and it better be mounted to the car frame for heat dissipation. Ask them how many ohms those resistors are, if they're less than 5 ohms, chances are warning light will come on after being on for a while because it draws too much current 12.5v/5 > 2A, again P = VI = 25W for the 5w & 25w bulbs- the system will think there is a short between terminals. If they're more than 6 ohms, the warning will come up as an open because it's greater .5-3 ohms.

There is no way of getting away from my circuit.

Cheers,

Louis
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:11 PM   #9
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do you have anything showing how to do this on what to buy where to buy and how to hook everything up pics would be great
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:05 PM   #10
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I got sick of dealing with it. I just bought Polarg M-4 B1 Hybrid Hyper White 194 Bulb | 12v 5w which are basically the same color range. No more issues. No more LEDs in the DRL location. All others are LEDs on the exterior and those show no errors. Seems like a lot of work and I got sick of dealing with it. So I just got a regular bulb that was whiter and brighter than the ugly halogen.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:05 PM
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