I have changed out my daytime running bulbs and also the parking light bulbs. replaced them with leds from superbright leds the canbus kind. still getting error codes are there any bulbs available from anywhere that will work and not throw codes it is a 2006 a8. I really like the look of the leds
There is no such thing as CANBUS bulbs.
You have to recode for LED DRLs and then join the +ve from the sidelights to the +ve on the DRLs, then they don't make error codes and dim at night like the originals.
I guess I must be a dumb*** I have no clue what you are talking about doing with all that the ptc rload. do you care to elaborate for me step by step thx
PTC is just a little reset-able fuse - You can search and find the cheap ones, I think radio shack may have them.
Every PTC has its own specs, when the current is over the designed specs, it will get hot and pop open. The good thing is when the voltage is not there, it's just a fuse = .5 to 3 ohms just like a resistant of a tungsten bulb.
In the circuit I'd drawn, 3 things are connected parallel, the PTC, Rload and the LED bulb.
Here is how a tungsten bulb resistance behaves, cold = 3ohms, hot = 30-60 ohm, so when no voltage applies, PTC sits as .5-3ohms (the sensor detects that and happy), then when the light switch turns on, PTC gets hot 12.5v/3ohms = 4A current over the design current of .1-.2A, and pops open (high resistance), at this time the Rload of 30-35ohm takes over maintain the 250mA to your LED, the sensor is happy and your LEDs are on without over current also.
As soon as the switch is off, the PTC reset and becomes a fuse again (.5-3ohms).
Parallel resistance of all three components is less than the lowest resistance which is the PTC//Rload//LED.
The sensor sees PTC resistance when cold, when it's open (hot), it sees the Rload//LED ~ Rload (30-35ohms) because the LED resistance is about 80 ohms. The reason it doesn't throw a code even if LED is burned out, because it always sees RLoad 30-35ohms.
For 5w parking bulb 2825 I used RLoad = 60 ohms 10W.
For 26w DRL bulb 1156 I used Rload = 35 ohms 50W.
For License plate LEDS, I don't use Rload, just PTC.
"Current and resistance
The actual resistance of the filament is temperature-dependent. The cold resistance of tungsten-filament lamps is about 1/15 the hot-filament resistance when the lamp is operating. For example, a 100-watt, 120-volt lamp has a resistance of 144 ohms when lit, but the cold resistance is much lower (about 9.5 ohms)"
I don't know if it makes sense, but that's how the circuit works.
So, the Rload they use must be very small 3-6ohms and it better be mounted to the car frame for heat dissipation. Ask them how many ohms those resistors are, if they're less than 5 ohms, chances are warning light will come on after being on for a while because it draws too much current 12.5v/5 > 2A, again P = VI = 25W for the 5w & 25w bulbs- the system will think there is a short between terminals. If they're more than 6 ohms, the warning will come up as an open because it's greater .5-3 ohms.
I got sick of dealing with it. I just bought Polarg M-4 B1 Hybrid Hyper White 194 Bulb | 12v 5w which are basically the same color range. No more issues. No more LEDs in the DRL location. All others are LEDs on the exterior and those show no errors. Seems like a lot of work and I got sick of dealing with it. So I just got a regular bulb that was whiter and brighter than the ugly halogen.
2007 Audi A8 L
Blacked out emblems
Debadged trunk (A8L and 4.2 emblem)
Blacked out D3 Grill
Gloss Black Calipers
MRR HR4 20x9 rims with Kuhmo ASX tires
Vag Com lowering mod (20 front 10 rear)
35% tint in rear/ 50% tint in front
BLACK on Amaretto Leather
LED Plate bulbs (rear)
LED Door bulbs (Puddle lights)
Adams Dimple/Slot Gold Zinc Rotors
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
DENSON Audio MP3 install
PIAA Yellow Plasma fogs
do you have anything showing how to do this on what to buy where to buy and how to hook everything up pics would be great
I can get a hold of a few PTCs and Rloads, tell me what bulbs you want to replace, I make a set for you, just have to splice to the bulb wires using speaker wires. Run the wires to the metal box and never have to worry about the LEDS ever again. I should drill a hole on the plastic cover and run wires through a rubber grommet, but I didn't have time and it worked fine even being pinched.
I have changed the drls and the small parking lights that mount right beside them if you pm me and help me get this fixed I will pay you for your trouble and whatever material we need thank you much
Show me your DRL & Parking, yours must be 06 because 05 lights are different. Post the pictures of your bulbs here, either on the car or outside.
It takes time and work to install these, make sure the bulbs are not the cheapo with tons of little LEDs on them like Mishar's DRL. Avoid millions of tiny SMD LEDS mounted on a bulb, the brightness comes from Quality LEDS and not the Quantity of LEDS, it doesn't work.
These 2 types I bought from these guys have been working for months without a hitch. They're inexpensive and proven working.
The only problem is they take a few weeks to ship to the US.
You will need:
4-PTCs - 250mA = $3 x 4 = $12.
2-Rload 50-60 ohm 5w for parking bulbs = $2.5x2 = $5.
2-Rload 25-35 ohm 50W for DRL bulbs = $4 x 2 = $8.
I'll solder the PTCs and Rloads with stripped wires, all you do is to splice them to your socket wires.
I run the wire from the driver side to the box - passenger side.
The reason for doing this is if I need to change the PTC or RLoad, I don't have to mess around with the light assembly, and if anything happens, it's isolated to a metal box, NO FIRES :-) I'm just a careful/paranoid guy.
I hate shipping, I do everything online these days. Shipping these with USPS is about $5-7.
Again, I do this for fun and help people in the forum, I'll test and make sure they work and I don't send untested stuff. Please don't ask for money back or complain about the failure due to operator errors. If they work for me, they should work for you, I will help to get your LED system work just like mine (like it never exists).
Anyhow, if they're on and work for you is fine. I'll start on it today and you may have them in a few days. I'll see if I still have some speakers wires laying around, I know I used up the last roll. Do you have speaker wires 16-18 gauge? The smaller number is "fatter" but minimum is 18.
If you have the speaker wires, I'll just make the PTC and Rload for you.