It's my turn... low rider
#11
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Before I jump the gun and buy stuff for my 2006 A8L suspension
I read all these posts and most of them have shock leaks, pump errors on the scan, but mine doesn't seem to have any of those except the electronic control level stuff. Hopefully mine is still OK and a fuse or a block that's bad. On the way home at night, I hit a pot hole and the warning lights were off and the car seems to rise (or just my imagination) and after a few bumps, the warning lights were back again. Anyhow, what fuses should I be checking? Where is this distribution block? I'm lazy, haven't read the ElsaWin yet or the Manual, if you know off hand, please tell, if not I'll do the reading. Here are the scan of suspension related stuff. Hate to paste everything, looks like a broken car -LOL.
And my trip home from when it's broken - My wife did feel the pain when we went over bumps - She really cares for this car.
Cheers,
Louis
And my trip home from when it's broken - My wife did feel the pain when we went over bumps - She really cares for this car.
Louis
Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 03-22-2017 at 10:23 AM.
#12
AudiWorld Super User
Valve block is under the drivers side fender liner if you pull it out. On a W12 it is toward the rear (nearest driver's door), but may be positioned a little differently in a 4.2--though still in the liner area.
#13
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Thanks MP4.2, just ordered a relay 373 and the orange fuse regardless if they're the problem or not. $7 for the relay and $3 for the fuse, the shipping is $9, amazing.
Can't believe it's raining this SAT, may be Sunday... I don't even know how to drive it up the drive way without destroying the front bumper? Can't do it on the street as it sits right now.
How should I start to troubleshoot?
1- Open the dash, check the fuse and the relay? Hope they're bad - but if they're good.
2- Check to see if the pump is running? By feeling it vibrating or piston sounds?
So if the pump is not running, the back is up on the reservoir? Should they're down too? It must be airtight from the rear to the valve block?
I need 2 jacks, jack from the rear high enough for the front jack to go under? Hate to work on the street.
Reading material
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_292.pdf
Cheers,
Louis
Can't believe it's raining this SAT, may be Sunday... I don't even know how to drive it up the drive way without destroying the front bumper? Can't do it on the street as it sits right now.
How should I start to troubleshoot?
1- Open the dash, check the fuse and the relay? Hope they're bad - but if they're good.
2- Check to see if the pump is running? By feeling it vibrating or piston sounds?
So if the pump is not running, the back is up on the reservoir? Should they're down too? It must be airtight from the rear to the valve block?
I need 2 jacks, jack from the rear high enough for the front jack to go under? Hate to work on the street.
Reading material
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_292.pdf
Cheers,
Louis
Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 01-31-2017 at 09:08 PM.
#14
AudiWorld Super User
Thanks MP4.2, just ordered a relay 373 and the orange fuse regardless if they're the problem or not. $7 for the relay and $3 for the fuse, the shipping is $9, amazing.
Can't believe it's raining this SAT, may be Sunday... I don't even know how to drive it up the drive way without destroying the front bumper? Can't do it on the street as it sits right now.
How should I start to troubleshoot?
1- Open the dash, check the fuse and the relay? Hope they're bad - but if they're good.
2- Check to see if the pump is running? By feeling it vibrating or piston sounds?
So if the pump is not running, the back is up on the reservoir? Should they're down too? It must be airtight from the rear to the valve block?
I need 2 jacks, jack from the rear high enough for the front jack to go under? Hate to work on the street.
Reading material
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_292.pdf
Cheers,
Louis
Can't believe it's raining this SAT, may be Sunday... I don't even know how to drive it up the drive way without destroying the front bumper? Can't do it on the street as it sits right now.
How should I start to troubleshoot?
1- Open the dash, check the fuse and the relay? Hope they're bad - but if they're good.
2- Check to see if the pump is running? By feeling it vibrating or piston sounds?
So if the pump is not running, the back is up on the reservoir? Should they're down too? It must be airtight from the rear to the valve block?
I need 2 jacks, jack from the rear high enough for the front jack to go under? Hate to work on the street.
Reading material
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_292.pdf
Cheers,
Louis
Owners with relay issues seem more commonly to have them fusing shut if I remember the posts correctly in general over the years--as in the pump keeps running and eventually burns up. But yes I have certainly had relays on older Audis fail to switch and thus hang open too.
Once/if you establish pump is working, you can move to the air, shock and reservoir side. Pump (and/or relay) failure is often a symptom though from the posts over the years, rather than root cause issue. That is, they get overworked from a leak somewhere and then fail.
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I just don't know how the struts can leak so fast in 30-45 minutes. Normally it should show a sign of leaking slowly for days? The heights were fine all day. Can't wait to find out what the problem is. Some guy had the compressor died and the symptoms are the same as mine. Hopefully after driving on these bad roads knocked the components and blown the fuse.
Cheers,
Louis
Cheers,
Louis
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
It wasn't raining today, I think I found the problem
I think I found the problem, but the scan doesn't show the leak like everyone else. Right side is leaking. The question is buying Arnott, RMT or CarID... or tear it apart and fix it. I need to confirm by finding the leaks before doing anything.
Cheers,
Louis
Cheers,
Louis
Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 03-22-2017 at 10:26 AM.
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S8gr (10-25-2020)
#17
AudiWorld Super User
I think I found the problem, but the scan doesn't show the leak like everyone else. Right side is leaking. The question is buying Arnott, RMT or CarID... or tear it apart and fix it. I need to confirm by finding the leaks before doing anything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alF86sQBAWE
Cheers,
Louis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alF86sQBAWE
Cheers,
Louis
I used dealer OE, but it was a couple of years ago and on a W12 w/ more resale value. FWIW, these days sense of posts I get would be RMT. Folks have issues with either choice sometimes though. Best may be send your own in if you can afford the down time.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-04-2017 at 04:24 PM.
#19
AudiWorld Super User
#20
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Like this one
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...05-d3-2913654/
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4E0-910-553.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 553 H HW: 4E0 907 553 F
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC H06 4480
Coding: 0015510
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 28558BBB9B177702A1-807C
4 Faults Found:
01583 - Leak in System Detected
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 131
Mileage: 216947 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.01.29
Time: 15:22:51
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...05-d3-2913654/
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4E0-910-553.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 553 H HW: 4E0 907 553 F
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC H06 4480
Coding: 0015510
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 28558BBB9B177702A1-807C
4 Faults Found:
01583 - Leak in System Detected
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 131
Mileage: 216947 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.01.29
Time: 15:22:51