sc80877520

just had my engine fixed, because of the extensive oil consuming. maybe need a liter of oil for 500-1000KM .
replaced all engine seals, piston rings, spark plugs, new oil water seperator(or EGR?)not sure how it called.
now
my car has about 190K km on the clock.
i put Castrol 03110-3PK GTX High Mileage 10W-30 Motor Oil in the car.
now its burning oil. when the revs are high, u can see clear blue smoking coming out the exaust.

any ideas?
my mechanic says it should take afew thousand miles for the new rings to adjust to the engine.
or is it the oil im used wrong??? maybe too thin???
he sujest me to use 0W-40 full sythetic.
any seggustion on the oil for oil burning???

GradecEngineering

You pretty much answered your own questions. Yes, it will take time before your piston rings seat. Also, the correct oil for the 4.2L is a VW502 5W-40 or 0W-40.

Mister Bally

Drain that 10w 30 oil immediately and replace with 5w 40 or 0w 40 thathas a VW 502 designator on the label. Otherwise, you are on your own.

Jack88

Never run conventional oil in a car designed to run synthetic. 'Part Synthetic,' as the Castrol you used calls itself, is still conventional oil. Audi, like many modern cars, have designed their engines assuming that they are using synthetic oil, which carries superior characteristics over conventional motor oil, to run with anything else carries all kinds of risks.


I've not done my own oil changes on mine, what separates synthetics with the VW502 designator from your usual, say, Mobile 1 synthetic?

Mister Bally

Ask VW /Audi. The owner's manual dedicates several paragraphs stressing the use of oil with the designator versus without it. Also, dealer parts & service department have a pamphlet that goes over this stuff.
Even I, a cheapskate, realizes this is important and step up. I keep my cars for a long time with high mileage.

Panelhead

In engines with looser tolerances the OEM recommendation was to run conventional oil for 20,000 miles before switching to synthetic. Bored cylinders and meetings are essentially new.
The reason was they said the rings might not seat if the car had synthetic put in too soon. This may have been a wife's tale. Today many come with synthetic from the factory.
Back when they did not recommend synthetic in as new engine, 100,000 miles was a lot. Many were burning oil before then. Today cars go 200,000 miles. Most with zero oil consumption.
The golden age muscle cars, 60's and 70's used oil from day one. Just more every year.
I think your oil consumption will not go away. New engines do not smoke.

richard-tx

My feeling is that the fellow that did the ring job didn't do it right. New engines do not smoke. My rebuilt engines do not smoke. Your engine should not smoke. There are too many possible root causes to say why.

You can't just put rings in an modern engine and have it be right.

Time to find a nice used engine somewhere.

Jack88

Alright, let's start with putting the proper type of oil with the proper weight back in the car and see what happens. Fix what we know is wrong before further speculation.

MiMitch

this... rite here.

improper honing, wrong rings, cheap rings, tapered cylinder walls, even broken rings... theirs a number of reasons motors smoke after a rebuild, some of these problems will correct themselves after some break in, synthetic oil will increase the time for brake in. the amount of slop / taper that's been introduced to your cylinder walls will affect brake in period time... if stuff is too far out of spec it may never brake in. any motors I've rebuilt (small and big block chevys and 1 ford) have had a little smoke for the first 50 miles or so and have been run with "brake in oil" for the first 500 or so miles... this was honing cylinder walls with a honing attachment on a cordless drill :P

i don't know how much of this translates to audis, if audis have sleeved blocks then its just a matter of putting new cylinder sleeves in, if that's the case.... you shouldn't see any difference when compared to a new motor. if you had the motor rebuilt at a motor shop, they should have the rite tools to do the job way better than a grease monkey in a shed (me) and i would expect the motor not to have as much blow by.

one thing you can try, see if an auto parts store (autozone?) will rent you a "leak down" tester, this will measure the pressure in the cylinder and then you see how fast the pressure drops when you turn the cylinder to the top of a compression stroke.. a certain level of blow by is acceptable, one of the smart guys on here may know how much for an audi.... or you can ask google.

the next option is to bring it back to the shop and tell them to fix it, if you have a lot of smoke, they're probably crossing their fingers hoping it brakes in, but they know its messed up....

can you post a video? im curious to see how much smoke is "a lot"

1Wasserwerks

Odd that proper break-in oil was not used for a ring job. As far as remember break in oil contains high amounts of zinc, it's purpose is to effectively seat the rings in the cylinder. If non break in oil is used it would take a lot longer. With synthetic use probably a real long time. Last time I broke in a fresh rebuilt I had to go 1000 miles on the break in oil, then switch over to whatever brand/viscosity I was going to stay with. I would at least talk to whomever did the rebuild and make your concerns known.