help freezing feet
#1
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help freezing feet
I cannot figure out how to get the heat directed to the floor for feet. I have looked in manual nothing checked every where no luck I like it to blow on floor not in face it smothers me I have a 06 a8 what setting do I use thx
#2
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I would like to second this.
My 97 A8 heat and AC is so smart. Puts the heat low and the AC high. The fan is hard to hear and does everything without notice. Never do you feel the blower it just gets to the temp you asked. Now I have this 2007. You can hear the fan and after 15 minutes of driving my feet are still cold. Hoping I can get into a setting someplace and set the Auto to go to the lower vents when heat is needed.
My 97 A8 heat and AC is so smart. Puts the heat low and the AC high. The fan is hard to hear and does everything without notice. Never do you feel the blower it just gets to the temp you asked. Now I have this 2007. You can hear the fan and after 15 minutes of driving my feet are still cold. Hoping I can get into a setting someplace and set the Auto to go to the lower vents when heat is needed.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
If you put it on Auto it should work probably the best it can. Audi guys spent quite a bit of time programming and testing that. They don't like cold feet either.
#6
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Dan
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Thanks for the info.
I am looking for a way to "fix" the Auto function to work as I think it should. Why would it not have the majority of the heat go to the floor in winter? Mine might be broken and I sort of hope that it is so I can fix it and have it work correctly.
I am looking for a way to "fix" the Auto function to work as I think it should. Why would it not have the majority of the heat go to the floor in winter? Mine might be broken and I sort of hope that it is so I can fix it and have it work correctly.
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
These are old but I seem to remember it working on D3 as well https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int6.shtml
As Misha said, VCDS will also give you a better idea.
As Misha said, VCDS will also give you a better idea.
#10
AudiWorld Super User
VCDS is the gold standard for DIY full Audi scanning; more info...
Still known by a bunch of us old timers as VAG COM--for those of us who could care less about Volkswagen's blustering about trademarks it doesn't even use.
Sold by Ross Tech, here: http://www.ross-tech.com. For owning a D3 this tool is literally just about as necessary as a Phillips, some Torx drivers, and 10, 13, 17 and 19 mm wrenches to cover about 90% of what's on the car. Moves fixing anything electronic from guess work and throwing parts at it to a likely specific diagnosis. In this thread for example, it would likely identify bad sensors or stuck flap door actuators, either of which could be at issue w/ what the post is discussing.
D3's need the more modern "CAN" type cable, which also works (backward compatible) to the older interface used with D2's, C5's, B5 or 6-ish, etc. A one time investment if you own, or plan to own, virtually any Audi or VW. I'm now using my D3 cable back to the now family owned prior C5 and forward to my 2013 Q5, including a bunch of modules and changes now common in Q5's, D4's, C7's, B8's, etc that are not in the D3 or have been superseded by newer designs. Their oft-updated software could care less which Audi I plug it into, and I pay no per vehicle license as long as I use their cable (where the electronic lock is of course).
There are rip offs sold on eBay or the web, which invariably lead to posts where the (poor sole) poster wakes up and realizes the supposed "just like" cable is hardly better than a throw away OBD II cord. Buy the real thing; it's actually the buy of the century as far as top scan tools, and the underlying software makes stuff for other vehicles like BMW's look like it is out of the stone age and hardly more than line editors when it comes to fun stuff like mods.
Sold by Ross Tech, here: http://www.ross-tech.com. For owning a D3 this tool is literally just about as necessary as a Phillips, some Torx drivers, and 10, 13, 17 and 19 mm wrenches to cover about 90% of what's on the car. Moves fixing anything electronic from guess work and throwing parts at it to a likely specific diagnosis. In this thread for example, it would likely identify bad sensors or stuck flap door actuators, either of which could be at issue w/ what the post is discussing.
D3's need the more modern "CAN" type cable, which also works (backward compatible) to the older interface used with D2's, C5's, B5 or 6-ish, etc. A one time investment if you own, or plan to own, virtually any Audi or VW. I'm now using my D3 cable back to the now family owned prior C5 and forward to my 2013 Q5, including a bunch of modules and changes now common in Q5's, D4's, C7's, B8's, etc that are not in the D3 or have been superseded by newer designs. Their oft-updated software could care less which Audi I plug it into, and I pay no per vehicle license as long as I use their cable (where the electronic lock is of course).
There are rip offs sold on eBay or the web, which invariably lead to posts where the (poor sole) poster wakes up and realizes the supposed "just like" cable is hardly better than a throw away OBD II cord. Buy the real thing; it's actually the buy of the century as far as top scan tools, and the underlying software makes stuff for other vehicles like BMW's look like it is out of the stone age and hardly more than line editors when it comes to fun stuff like mods.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 11-26-2013 at 02:24 PM.