Matt Pizzola

Update: rack is out. Really wasn't as bad as it looked. The rack on this car has three attachment bolts and comes out the drivers side. Couple things that the book didn't mention: I removed the entire section of line from banjo to union. This made a world of difference. Also the inner wheel well liners have some hidden 10mm nuts that the book fails to point out. The whole rack came out with tie rods attached without much trouble. If anyone is planning to do this and needs more tips hit me up. I'd bet now that I've done it, I could have the whole assembly out in less than two hours. Going back in doesn't seem fun but the garage is quoting 11 hrs labor...do it yourself.

MP4.2+6.0

Good work. Sounds like from what you say you could reinstall with the tie rods already installed. Those inner boot factory type single use clamps are royal pain in butt if you install them once in car, but it would be cake walk if you can do ahead of time and with way simpler tools and technique. May depend in turn on how access is to any hose bolt up point in the driver's area, but if you got it out in one complete assembly, sounds okay.

Hose bolt ups were the biggest challenge back when I did my one in the late 80's, especially the inner seal ring on far side of banjo any bolt that slips off oh so easily and can really try your patience. Again, if you removed the other end end of hose, sounds like at least one may be easier. Maybe another idea if still relevant to design and hassles would be to use a tiny bit oil resistant silicone and carefully essentially glue (and let dry) the seal ring on rack before any hydraulic oil gets on fittings and before threading assembly back into car.

Matt Pizzola

The banjos shouldn't be too bad and yes the tie rods and boots installed prior to going in with rack should make it much easier with clamps. Honestly I predict I'm going to play hell with getting the boot at the steering wheel shaft as the worst part of things. It will be a long time as I decided to have the rack rebuilt for around four hundred than buy a new one. It has a warranty so I'll chance it. New rack is 1751.00 and doesn't include new tie rods. I'll cross my fingers.. Let you know how it goes in a month or so..

Matt Pizzola

Well the rebuilt rack is in. So far so good. The pump even seems to be ok despite the extended run with no fluid. Have an appt for an alignment tomorrow.

My bottom line, while this wasn't "easy" by any stretch, it was very doable. I figure I have around 500 invested. I think if I were to have it done at a shop with a replacement rack I'd be looking around 3k. 1700 for rack. 11 hrs labor at around 100 bucks. New tie rods and fluid. Alignment etc. this took a long time but that's more because my time is limited. Turn around on the rack was around two weeks and I was pretty impressed with the customer service at CARDONE. They tolerated all my questions and had really reasonable answers. Seemed knowledgeable. Came with warranty. Anyway, thanks for all the help and if anyone is tackling this job feel free to hit me up. There were a few tricks I learned along the way.

blobby

Hi Matt, hope you are well. I have an issue with my A8 D3 4.0tdi. The steering rack is leaking from an internal seal and dumped a litre while I was trying to find the leak out of the driver side rubber gator. It looks like it has been going for a while because the paint has been melted away the lower member and the suspension arms are wet. Anyway, I have a used one from ebay, and have ordered new rubber boots with clips, banjp bolt washers and some other seals Audi recommended along with 3 litres of fluid. I would appreciate some guidance on how to replace this thing.I have VCDS and various tools including line wrenches, although I am not sure if I have the correct sizes. I also have various spanners and sockets etc. I already have the car on jacks with the wheels off and plan to remove the wheel liners to allow access.
How do I disconnect the steering column and where from ? Do I need a special spanner for this? I did the upper links recently so removing the pinch bolt should be easy but do I need to do this and move the hub carrier out of the way? Is it easier to disconnect the hoses at the other end, instead of at the rack?
Please let me know if there are any special tools I need and how to access the difficult bits. I plan to get it all done this bank holiday weekend.

Jack88

Sorry, Blobby, he made this post 18 months ago and hasn't been active since, he is unlikely to respond. Even if he did, he has a different motor and his car has his steering wheel on the other side of the car, so between those two facts, you can't be sure his experience will mirror yours. Best bet is to get the Bentley manual and have detailed instructions at your disposal.

BASARAB

I wonder how is that aftermarket rack holding up

blobby

Ok, so I have removed the steering column to steering box clamp and put aside, removed wheel housing on both sides. I am unsure what type of socket or spanner is required for the three bolts holding the steering box on. Does anyone know ?

Swes

I have a W12 and I’m going to be giving this a shot. I was hoping a rubber hose failed but no the passenger side of the rack spews oil. Going to start with the u joint and go from there.

Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT

You may want to have a look at this thread starting at around post # 16.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...y-input-2.html

Johnny