Real time help, stuck at work.
08-16-2016, 06:58 PM
#11
AudiWorld Super User
Mister Bally carries an extra I think. I have one in the spare parts ready box--along with a suspension compressor relay. Both were going to get swapped out if I was fixing something else involving the same general area.
08-16-2016, 07:36 PM
#14
AudiWorld Member
08-16-2016, 10:20 PM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
08-31-2016, 06:42 AM
#18
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Follow up:
After driving the Caddy to work for a week, the part from ECS arrived (I elected not to pay for the speedy shipping). I replaced the part and pulled the codes (that's another story.... yikes!), now the A8 starts like it did before, no episodes of stranding since the replacement.
Tips-
If you need to do the brake light switch OR the compressor relay, do them BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. The same pieces need to be removed to gain access. I have done both of these replacements, at separate intervals. Neither the relay or the switch are expensive, and removing the trim is not hard- but it only makes sense to do the problem components at the same time. Doing both together would take maybe 30 minutes max. You could conceivably do the swap on both parts while waiting for your oil to drain during your next oil change.
To access:
Remove the center trim piece from the left side of the steering wheel, then at least partially remove the center trim piece from the right side of the steering wheel. (complete removal requires removing the card holder front piece, but I see no reason to remove that trim piece in its entirety- you can easily drop the cover under the steering wheel without doing so)
After you have removed or loosened the center trim pieces, drop the cover under the steering wheel- don't forget the screws covered by the fuse panel cover. I also disconnected the harness going to the head light switch, and ignition switch. I did not touch the airbag stuff. (please remember there is an airbag here- any work done in this area is at your own risk. Do not attempt to either energize or de-energize the system if you don't know what you are doing.)
After removing the screws and disconnecting the two switches, the cover will lay on the floorboard area just fine, giving you access to the compressor relay and the brake light switch.
The brake light switch is to the right of the steering column, and slightly below it. I found that the air duct in front of the switch can be pushed down gently to give better access. Simply twist the switch counter clockwise and it can be removed easily. Unplug the harness and re-install into the new switch. Becareful as you insert the new switch back into position that you do not depress the plunger on the end of the switch, this is slightly fiddly as the hole for the switch is about 3/4" in diameter. Place switch back into position and rotate clockwise until it locks into place. Easy as pie.
the compressor relay is located in the nest of fuses and relays to the left of the steering column, and is well covered in other posts.
After driving the Caddy to work for a week, the part from ECS arrived (I elected not to pay for the speedy shipping). I replaced the part and pulled the codes (that's another story.... yikes!), now the A8 starts like it did before, no episodes of stranding since the replacement.
Tips-
If you need to do the brake light switch OR the compressor relay, do them BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. The same pieces need to be removed to gain access. I have done both of these replacements, at separate intervals. Neither the relay or the switch are expensive, and removing the trim is not hard- but it only makes sense to do the problem components at the same time. Doing both together would take maybe 30 minutes max. You could conceivably do the swap on both parts while waiting for your oil to drain during your next oil change.
To access:
Remove the center trim piece from the left side of the steering wheel, then at least partially remove the center trim piece from the right side of the steering wheel. (complete removal requires removing the card holder front piece, but I see no reason to remove that trim piece in its entirety- you can easily drop the cover under the steering wheel without doing so)
After you have removed or loosened the center trim pieces, drop the cover under the steering wheel- don't forget the screws covered by the fuse panel cover. I also disconnected the harness going to the head light switch, and ignition switch. I did not touch the airbag stuff. (please remember there is an airbag here- any work done in this area is at your own risk. Do not attempt to either energize or de-energize the system if you don't know what you are doing.)
After removing the screws and disconnecting the two switches, the cover will lay on the floorboard area just fine, giving you access to the compressor relay and the brake light switch.
The brake light switch is to the right of the steering column, and slightly below it. I found that the air duct in front of the switch can be pushed down gently to give better access. Simply twist the switch counter clockwise and it can be removed easily. Unplug the harness and re-install into the new switch. Becareful as you insert the new switch back into position that you do not depress the plunger on the end of the switch, this is slightly fiddly as the hole for the switch is about 3/4" in diameter. Place switch back into position and rotate clockwise until it locks into place. Easy as pie.
the compressor relay is located in the nest of fuses and relays to the left of the steering column, and is well covered in other posts.
08-31-2016, 05:15 PM
#19
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I guess I spoke too soon. Wouldn't start after work again. I left it there, taking my vagcom to work tomorrow.
I had a thought... Could it be the weather? It has only ever failed to start when it has been hot outside, ambient temps in the 90s.
I had a thought... Could it be the weather? It has only ever failed to start when it has been hot outside, ambient temps in the 90s.
08-31-2016, 06:10 PM
#20
AudiWorld Super User
Are you able to move shifter now even if no start? If so you may have have a two-fer: hot (or erratic) fails may be the main crank sensor. Another known failure point, and there may be no codes.
