Ticking when starting...D3 S8
12-19-2012, 02:45 PM
#1
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Ticking when starting...D3 S8
Doesn't happen all the time, but prob 80%. Thought it might be the MMI motor at first (still could be), but it sounds like it's coming from under the hood, in between the windshield wipers.
When I start the car and everything powers up...a subtle tick..tick..tick. It fades away as opposed to stopping on a dime.
Any thoughts?
Another question:
I had my brakes redone (OEM rotors EBC pads) about 5K miles ago.
There is a fairly loud clank when I reach a certain pressure while braking. I'm thinking the front pads are the wrong size and sliding a little bit in the boot. Is that possible/probable? Again, it doesn't happen 100% of the time, but pretty often. Always in the front, and always at the same pressure. LAD looked it over and said all was installed correctly but blamed it on the "aftermarket pads"
When I start the car and everything powers up...a subtle tick..tick..tick. It fades away as opposed to stopping on a dime.
Any thoughts?
Another question:
I had my brakes redone (OEM rotors EBC pads) about 5K miles ago.
There is a fairly loud clank when I reach a certain pressure while braking. I'm thinking the front pads are the wrong size and sliding a little bit in the boot. Is that possible/probable? Again, it doesn't happen 100% of the time, but pretty often. Always in the front, and always at the same pressure. LAD looked it over and said all was installed correctly but blamed it on the "aftermarket pads"
12-19-2012, 05:44 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Brakes
Unless they put in fundamentally the wrong pads--unlikely since it would be pretty obvious and often wouldn't even fit in--I wouldn't expect it is an EBC issue. I have used the EBC's on my W12, which have the identical calipers and rotor size to the S8. No such issue. The backing plates are virtually the same from very detailed side by side comparo's I have done personally. Linked in my autosig below FWIW.
Variously I would look at:
1. The suspension bolt up points. Non brake. Look particularly at the front upper control arm at the bushing bolted toward the body side. Not uncommon to wear by 50K miles, and very common inside of 100K. A typical D3 and general Audi weakness, and if badly worn it can clunk. Ditto on looking at other suspension parts, but that specific one is most likely given the common failure history.
2. Brake bolt up points. I put this second actually, because it is a basic and unlikely error instead of a more common part failure. Look at the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub assembly. There are two very large bolts that take a lot of torque. If someone messed up, those could be shifting slightly under heavy load. Similarly, suspension bolt up points, more so if you have ever had any suspension parts replaced.
Long shots would be things like worn tie rods (though likely more felt through the steering), a loose subframe bolt, bad motor mount, etc. Also worn pins on which the calipers slide, but that would seem very unlikely unless this were a 20 year old car w/ hundreds of thousands of miles.
On HVAC, yes go w/ what Mister Bally says first. More generally, run a VAG COM scan to see if there are any faults. A bad door actuator would likely show up. Another idea from back on my C5 A6 is (at least then), there was a tiny fan inside the dash temp sensor. When the A6 is very quiet, I can hear a distant ticking. Another tick also happened with the A6 when the HVAC blower motor wore (had a solar roof, which seemed to aggravate blower wear). I first noticed it when very cold, like up in the mountains in winter.
Variously I would look at:
1. The suspension bolt up points. Non brake. Look particularly at the front upper control arm at the bushing bolted toward the body side. Not uncommon to wear by 50K miles, and very common inside of 100K. A typical D3 and general Audi weakness, and if badly worn it can clunk. Ditto on looking at other suspension parts, but that specific one is most likely given the common failure history.
2. Brake bolt up points. I put this second actually, because it is a basic and unlikely error instead of a more common part failure. Look at the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub assembly. There are two very large bolts that take a lot of torque. If someone messed up, those could be shifting slightly under heavy load. Similarly, suspension bolt up points, more so if you have ever had any suspension parts replaced.
Long shots would be things like worn tie rods (though likely more felt through the steering), a loose subframe bolt, bad motor mount, etc. Also worn pins on which the calipers slide, but that would seem very unlikely unless this were a 20 year old car w/ hundreds of thousands of miles.
On HVAC, yes go w/ what Mister Bally says first. More generally, run a VAG COM scan to see if there are any faults. A bad door actuator would likely show up. Another idea from back on my C5 A6 is (at least then), there was a tiny fan inside the dash temp sensor. When the A6 is very quiet, I can hear a distant ticking. Another tick also happened with the A6 when the HVAC blower motor wore (had a solar roof, which seemed to aggravate blower wear). I first noticed it when very cold, like up in the mountains in winter.
12-20-2012, 09:38 AM
#4
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Variously I would look at:
1. The suspension bolt up points. Non brake. Look particularly at the front upper control arm at the bushing bolted toward the body side. Not uncommon to wear by 50K miles, and very common inside of 100K. A typical D3 and general Audi weakness, and if badly worn it can clunk. Ditto on looking at other suspension parts, but that specific one is most likely given the common failure history.
2. Brake bolt up points. I put this second actually, because it is a basic and unlikely error instead of a more common part failure. Look at the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub assembly. There are two very large bolts that take a lot of torque. If someone messed up, those could be shifting slightly under heavy load. Similarly, suspension bolt up points, more so if you have ever had any suspension parts replaced.
1. The suspension bolt up points. Non brake. Look particularly at the front upper control arm at the bushing bolted toward the body side. Not uncommon to wear by 50K miles, and very common inside of 100K. A typical D3 and general Audi weakness, and if badly worn it can clunk. Ditto on looking at other suspension parts, but that specific one is most likely given the common failure history.
2. Brake bolt up points. I put this second actually, because it is a basic and unlikely error instead of a more common part failure. Look at the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub assembly. There are two very large bolts that take a lot of torque. If someone messed up, those could be shifting slightly under heavy load. Similarly, suspension bolt up points, more so if you have ever had any suspension parts replaced.
Funny you mention #1. I had the upper control arms bushings done at about the same time as I had the brakes done.
After the holidays, I am going to go at it myself and see what I can find...I'll update this thread at that time as I'm sure I'll need pointers along the way.
Thanks again.
- Joe
12-20-2012, 10:41 AM
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I too have that clicking in the dash at start up sometimes. It has always struck me as one of the electronic vent doors sticking or binding. It does go away after a minute or two. I have done several scans, and do not recall anything showing up for the vent controls, but I will have to do one again and check specifically for it. Typically I clear the codes, and it goes away because it does not happen all the time.
12-20-2012, 10:32 PM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
On control arms,
1. If you had just the bushings done, perhaps the wrong bushing was fit, or something odd about the press work. If it was the whole arm that was changed, less likely.
2. In either case (changed complete arms or just bushings), check the bolts on both ends of the control arms for good tightness.
Also, while you are at it, look at the lower links--the U shaped parts where the front antiroll bar bolts up to the suspension arm. Likely the second thing to wear after the upper control arms, though I haven't seen one tear out so much to where it would likely cause a clunk
2. In either case (changed complete arms or just bushings), check the bolts on both ends of the control arms for good tightness.
Also, while you are at it, look at the lower links--the U shaped parts where the front antiroll bar bolts up to the suspension arm. Likely the second thing to wear after the upper control arms, though I haven't seen one tear out so much to where it would likely cause a clunk
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