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While your in that deep I would recommend you pull the injectors and have them ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested on injector flow bench.
I don't know where your based buy over here there are loads of places with machines made by a company called asnu. Their flow benchs clean and test the injectors to ensure the spray pattern is optimal and that they are all within spec and not stuck open etc.
I am wondering if anybody ever installed a catch can on an S8 V10 instead of the stock PCV (I would not like to perform the intake port cleaning again)?
I am wondering if anybody ever installed a catch can on an S8 V10 instead of the stock PCV (I would not like to perform the intake port cleaning again)?
It will come down to whether you can connect it in line with the hose from the valve covers to wherever it sucks into the intake. On V10 I think it has a fine oil separator assembly rather than a PCV valve (whether basic or overdone like 4.2). If you notice those hose attachments and plastic corrugated hose in the APR picture, your challenge is to connect up correctly, plus have enough length to mount the catch can nearby. And, if you have two sets of hoses (for each side of V) like W12 has, you would need two of them absent something V10 or other dual sided specific. What it isn't is your oil vapor hose off a reel type splice in like a Mini or maybe Subie or something where these are more common.
There is a special adaptor that goes on the end of the crankshaft in the centre of the pulley, if you can't do it by hook or crook a quick bump on the starter win all the coils unplugged should get you what you need.
So some of you will be aware some of the first D3 S8's off the production line have had problems with inlet manifolds, there are plenty of stories of the flaps getting broken in the inlet manifold.
I too drive an early edition of the S8 so idle hands led me to have a look to see how things were today, thankfully mine are ok at present.
The following images and videos give you and idea of what to do to inspect them and how to go about it.
You will need to remove both air inlet ducts from the throttle bodies, like in the following two photo's
Intake pipe removed
Intake pipe removed
Crankcase hose separated from fine oil seperator
Bracket that is obscuring one of the fixing screws,<br/><br/>Remove bracket to gain access
A hidden screw that is the same size torx head as the other screws, its fixing the fine oil separator to the bracket on the throttle body
Plenum removed so you can get an idea of where the screws are that need removing
Plenum removed ready for insertion of camera, Iphone 6 is great for this
Looking up the inside of the inlet manifold at the flaps
Linkage rod to transfer movement to other bank of flaps
Linkage rod to transfer movement to other bank of flaps
A not so healthy inlet manifold, note the broken flap in the bottom of the manifold and others hanging down.
The small video of the Manifold flaps being tested using the Output tests of Module 01
This is an easy job with very little tools if you have the slightest bit of mechanical common sense, so don't be scared to have a go.
.....Great write up!!! I had a few questions though(sorry if its a little off topic), if I'm going to change both sides of the valve cover gaskets does the whole Throttle body assembly need to be removed, or we can work around it to remove the screws? Lastly, do you need to place a new gasket on the Plenum since you detached it?
08-20-2016, 10:54 AM
