03_AR_CO

You have more to lose than you give yourself credit for. Once you have something that does not belong in this closed system you stand to ruin all that the system is. You have the motor, the reserve tank, there are check valves in the remaining 3 air struts. In addition there is the distribution block. So to save ~ $600 for a rebuilt strut, you are putting to risk thousands.

I had an allroad for a number of years, and have read as many nightmare stories about using slime, as there were success stories. I do not recommend this alleged cheap trick.

allenst

ok fair enough.

it's important to understand the risks

thanks

1Wasserwerks

If you are sure of which leaking strut it is, just check out https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...17_pid174.html
I have a front left that only loses pressure under 50F. I'll be getting one probably next month.

halik

I'd think you'll be looking at a new $500 compressor if you slime anything; those struts vent back to the valve body if my understanding is correct.

haggisuk

If he's using the car with a leaking strut then its most likely that the compressor going to get burnt out.

If you really can't get the money to repair the car right now then my recommendation would be borrow another car and park her up till you can repair properly or you will most probably end up with a worse situ than you have at present.

allenst

Ya I know, this is true what you say.
I'm really debating on even keeping it but this car is almost 'for parts only' now.
If I add the costs up:
$1000 air compressor. used $500
$1000 strut. rebuilt $800
labour guess 4-6 hours = $500
other things found $250-$500

we're talking about $3000 repair for 1 WHEEL.
they will all fail as will a host of other very expensive items.

So for me a $50 compressor repair kit and some slime (just a little) = $75-$100 repair and my time.

jmhjgh

I tried this on my 04. You need to remove the bronze fitting that the air line connects to at the top of the strut. It acts like a check valve and I wasn't able to get any slime in the strut through that fitting. Once I removed the fitting, I used an outboard motor lower unit hand pump to get the slime into the strut (the connection is quite high, and you can't just pour it in). My strut seemed to leak more air when the ambient temperature dropped (below 32F). The repair seemed to slow the leak, but was not a permanent fix and I replaced the strut after a few months. I don't think contaminating the rest of the system is a high risk. Good luck with your repair and I hope it lasts.

aTOMic

allenst

is this accessed through top of engine
or is it the valve that i see a red line running into the strut from my view in wheel well ?