steering groan
#1
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steering groan
Steering groan - seems to occur either during a low-speed, fairly tight left turn (and when parking, wheel cranked left). Intermittent; could not replicate at the dealer, of course! 2K left on CPO warranty…want to nail this before it expires, in case it's something covered. Fluid was OK. - 2009 A8 (short wheelbase)
#2
AudiWorld Super User
If it doesn't happen at a dealer, just make all your low speed, fairly tight left turns at a dealer.
Seriously, make a video recording with a good cell phone that shows what you are doing and catches the sound.
Then show it to the service adviser, Be prepared to email or memory stick the file for the technician to view.
Seriously, make a video recording with a good cell phone that shows what you are doing and catches the sound.
Then show it to the service adviser, Be prepared to email or memory stick the file for the technician to view.
#3
I've had a similar groaning sound on my D4 during low speed tight turns in parking lots since I bought it in March. I showed it to a service advisor during a drive and he said it was a "normal" sound due to the all-wheel drive system. Funny that I've had many other AWD vehicles from other brands that never made that sound....
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Worth doing an exhaustive search on this ===> bad steering rack?
I think I have seen it posted once or twice before. If I remember right, when the noise is specific to turning in one direction and it isn't the usual worn suspension bits, then it is the rack and it gets replaced. Expensive and painful to do, so worth searching thoroughly for any prior posts on it before your warranty runs out.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 01-04-2015 at 08:29 AM.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
P.S. on warranty--do thorough inspection now
From having "been there done that" on my W12, if you are about to run out on CPO, it is worth climbing over every inch of your car, top to bottom. I have the general knowledge to do it myself, but it could even be worth paying an independent shop experienced with 4.2 Audis and quattro to do so.
You can test every single electrical item of course. You would also want to give it a scan for every accumulated code with VCDS. Ignore the typical power management system ones scattered around the modules, but look for any other pointers to issues the electronics pick up. Don't clear them either, since dealer needs to see them for any related work. Also, be sure to go over entire underside of drivetrain looking for any fluid leaks. Plus, really thoroughly under hood with a flashlight--cooling leaks, oil, back of valve covers for leaks,etc. Go over the upper control arm bushings in the front suspension very carefully, along with the sway bar links, even if you don't have any noise so far. Those parts are a "when not if" replacement from what we have all found/experienced on the board over time.
When I did this on mine just before my CPO clocked out, I found both a leaking valve cover gasket, and especially a blown front torque mount. Back on original warranty I found a very tiny weeping in the main radiator. I found cracking in the control arm bushings under original warranty, and some wear in the sway bar links before the end of CPO. Neither really resulted in meaningful noise noticeable in a casual drive. But I flagged it anyway to the effect of "some creaking I could hear in the morning from the front suspension area on a cold day"--along with a casual mention of the suspect area ideas I was trying to prompt them to look at. I also started getting TPMS errors right before my CPO ran out. I didn't try to reset the system the second time it happened; that got me $800 or a grand worth of sensors at dealer prices (plus install); CPO covers the TPMS sensors and their life is right around 6 years. Still on those second round of OE sensors today.
On the CPO phase, my service advisor (who also is the manager) told me they had over twenty hours in plus the TPMS sensors and other parts; I happily paid my $85 (the old cost). The front motor torque mount in particular is a nightmare on a W12; I did it one my 2000 A6 4.2 myself, but I had the nearby cylinder head off the time that made (difficult) access way easier. I figured going over everything with the proverbial fine tooth comb saved me tons of time and/or dollars since it basically accelerated issues onto their nickel that I may not have otherwise particularly noticed for even years. Thus, worth a good Audi indy (or DIY if you know cars and Audis) preventative "proctology" exam before losing your coverage. $1-200 can save you literally a few thousand or more and avoid a variety of nearer term issues or frustrations.
You can test every single electrical item of course. You would also want to give it a scan for every accumulated code with VCDS. Ignore the typical power management system ones scattered around the modules, but look for any other pointers to issues the electronics pick up. Don't clear them either, since dealer needs to see them for any related work. Also, be sure to go over entire underside of drivetrain looking for any fluid leaks. Plus, really thoroughly under hood with a flashlight--cooling leaks, oil, back of valve covers for leaks,etc. Go over the upper control arm bushings in the front suspension very carefully, along with the sway bar links, even if you don't have any noise so far. Those parts are a "when not if" replacement from what we have all found/experienced on the board over time.
When I did this on mine just before my CPO clocked out, I found both a leaking valve cover gasket, and especially a blown front torque mount. Back on original warranty I found a very tiny weeping in the main radiator. I found cracking in the control arm bushings under original warranty, and some wear in the sway bar links before the end of CPO. Neither really resulted in meaningful noise noticeable in a casual drive. But I flagged it anyway to the effect of "some creaking I could hear in the morning from the front suspension area on a cold day"--along with a casual mention of the suspect area ideas I was trying to prompt them to look at. I also started getting TPMS errors right before my CPO ran out. I didn't try to reset the system the second time it happened; that got me $800 or a grand worth of sensors at dealer prices (plus install); CPO covers the TPMS sensors and their life is right around 6 years. Still on those second round of OE sensors today.
On the CPO phase, my service advisor (who also is the manager) told me they had over twenty hours in plus the TPMS sensors and other parts; I happily paid my $85 (the old cost). The front motor torque mount in particular is a nightmare on a W12; I did it one my 2000 A6 4.2 myself, but I had the nearby cylinder head off the time that made (difficult) access way easier. I figured going over everything with the proverbial fine tooth comb saved me tons of time and/or dollars since it basically accelerated issues onto their nickel that I may not have otherwise particularly noticed for even years. Thus, worth a good Audi indy (or DIY if you know cars and Audis) preventative "proctology" exam before losing your coverage. $1-200 can save you literally a few thousand or more and avoid a variety of nearer term issues or frustrations.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 01-04-2015 at 10:31 AM.
#6
Good Advice
From having "been there done that" on my W12, if you are about to run out on CPO, it is worth climbing over every inch of your car, top to bottom. I have the general knowledge to do it myself, but it could even be worth paying an independent shop experienced with 4.2 Audis and quattro to do so.
You can test every single electrical item of course. You would also want to give it a scan for every accumulated code with VCDS. Ignore the typical power management system ones scattered around the modules, but look for any other pointers to issues the electronics pick up. Don't clear them either, since dealer needs to see them for any related work. Also, be sure to go over entire underside of drivetrain looking for any fluid leaks. Plus, really thoroughly under hood with a flashlight--cooling leaks, oil, back of valve covers for leaks,etc. Go over the upper control arm bushings in the front suspension very carefully, along with the sway bar links, even if you don't have any noise so far. Those parts are a "when not if" replacement from what we have all found/experienced on the board over time.
When I did this on mine just before my CPO clocked out, I found both a leaking valve cover gasket, and especially a blown front torque mount. Back on original warranty I found a very tiny weeping in the main radiator. I found cracking in the control arm bushings under original warranty, and some wear in the sway bar links before the end of CPO. Neither really resulted in meaningful noise noticeable in a casual drive. But I flagged it anyway to the effect of "some creaking I could hear in the morning from the front suspension area on a cold day"--along with a casual mention of the suspect area ideas I was trying to prompt them to look at. I also started getting TPMS errors right before my CPO ran out. I didn't try to reset the system the second time it happened; that got me $800 or a grand worth of sensors at dealer prices (plus install); CPO covers the TPMS sensors and their life is right around 6 years. Still on those second round of OE sensors today.
On the CPO phase, my service advisor (who also is the manager) told me they had over twenty hours in plus the TPMS sensors and other parts; I happily paid my $85 (the old cost). The front motor torque mount in particular is a nightmare on a W12; I did it one my 2000 A6 4.2 myself, but I had the nearby cylinder head off the time that made (difficult) access way easier. I figured going over everything with the proverbial fine tooth comb saved me tons of time and/or dollars since it basically accelerated issues onto their nickel that I may not have otherwise particularly noticed for even years. Thus, worth a good Audi indy (or DIY if you know cars and Audis) preventative "proctology" exam before losing your coverage. $1-200 can save you literally a few thousand or more and avoid a variety of nearer term issues or frustrations.
You can test every single electrical item of course. You would also want to give it a scan for every accumulated code with VCDS. Ignore the typical power management system ones scattered around the modules, but look for any other pointers to issues the electronics pick up. Don't clear them either, since dealer needs to see them for any related work. Also, be sure to go over entire underside of drivetrain looking for any fluid leaks. Plus, really thoroughly under hood with a flashlight--cooling leaks, oil, back of valve covers for leaks,etc. Go over the upper control arm bushings in the front suspension very carefully, along with the sway bar links, even if you don't have any noise so far. Those parts are a "when not if" replacement from what we have all found/experienced on the board over time.
When I did this on mine just before my CPO clocked out, I found both a leaking valve cover gasket, and especially a blown front torque mount. Back on original warranty I found a very tiny weeping in the main radiator. I found cracking in the control arm bushings under original warranty, and some wear in the sway bar links before the end of CPO. Neither really resulted in meaningful noise noticeable in a casual drive. But I flagged it anyway to the effect of "some creaking I could hear in the morning from the front suspension area on a cold day"--along with a casual mention of the suspect area ideas I was trying to prompt them to look at. I also started getting TPMS errors right before my CPO ran out. I didn't try to reset the system the second time it happened; that got me $800 or a grand worth of sensors at dealer prices (plus install); CPO covers the TPMS sensors and their life is right around 6 years. Still on those second round of OE sensors today.
On the CPO phase, my service advisor (who also is the manager) told me they had over twenty hours in plus the TPMS sensors and other parts; I happily paid my $85 (the old cost). The front motor torque mount in particular is a nightmare on a W12; I did it one my 2000 A6 4.2 myself, but I had the nearby cylinder head off the time that made (difficult) access way easier. I figured going over everything with the proverbial fine tooth comb saved me tons of time and/or dollars since it basically accelerated issues onto their nickel that I may not have otherwise particularly noticed for even years. Thus, worth a good Audi indy (or DIY if you know cars and Audis) preventative "proctology" exam before losing your coverage. $1-200 can save you literally a few thousand or more and avoid a variety of nearer term issues or frustrations.
#7
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Did you figure this out?
Did you ever figure out the culprit of the groaning? I have the identical issue.
Good advice, thank you though my warranty ran out last year, the dealer caught a leaking hydraulic engine mount. My car is making a groan noise when I turn and we replaced all of the controls arms on the left and right. Also replaced sway bar links. It was okay for a couple weeks then noise came back. I give up, I guess if something breaks I will know it.
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#9
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Is there any liquid leaking under the engine?
I was getting a steering groan and it turned out to be cracked power steering (plastic) reservoir in the L/F fender.
A deer had run into the car which required fender replacement (reservoir was leaking prior to the deer incident). During that process they discovered the crack and ordered a new reservoir from Germany. No more leak - no more moaning.
I was getting a steering groan and it turned out to be cracked power steering (plastic) reservoir in the L/F fender.
A deer had run into the car which required fender replacement (reservoir was leaking prior to the deer incident). During that process they discovered the crack and ordered a new reservoir from Germany. No more leak - no more moaning.
#10
There was no liquid leaking under my engine. I was mistaken, there is a lower control arm on passenger side that we did not replace yet after further inspection. We will take a close look at sway bar link and let you all know if lower control arm replacement fixes the issue.