SS_RTR

Well, my alternator rebuild looks to be more than I expected. I got a 3/8" 4-point breaker bar in position to release the tension on the belt and it just turns. After getting some better lighting in the spot, it looks like it had previously been "stripped". Do any of you have a suggested way of proceeding to remove belt tensioner? I might as well replace the belt while replacing tensioner. Should I attempt to cut the belt or should I attempt to remove the tensioner given that it will be under load.

History on this is that I've been having some "battery drive voltage" on a few components, while the engine is running and an see that the voltage from group 4 under the engine module in VCDS jumps around between 11-12 volts with engine running. Also have a 9-10 amp draw with car off and I've verified that alternator is warm eight hours afterwards. Battery is about 1.5 years old. Local shop was going to rebuild alternator/diodes for me.

richard-tx

If the alternator has a shorted diode, it is possible that the stator is burnt. Pulling the stator is not fun on those alternators.

I personally would not mess around with repairing the alternator. I would find a good used one from the junk yard.

Since you need a new tensioner, feel free to cut the belt. Somehow I think that the failed alternator and damaged tensioner are related somehow.

SS_RTR

Alternator shop will rebuild alternator. They said if it is a hitachi, which it is, that it shouldn't be to difficult. I'll have them check the stator. I'll cut the belt tomorrow and finish removing the alternator.

Thanks.

SS_RTR

Update on this. I got the belt cut, tensioner removed, coolant and electrical lines disconnected. I've loosened both alternator bolts, but I don't seem to have the clearance to remove the top bolt. I've tried putting a piece of wood between engine and shroud and gently applying a little pressure to increase the distance. I'm disappointed in the Bentley manuals as it does not indicate removing fan shroud for this procedure. Unless anyone has any other suggestions, it looks like I'll be removing front bumper cover, lower front bumper, radiator, and fan shroud. I've been meaning to replace front headlights anyway. They are AFS - one has a bad motor, and a rock hit the the other one a couple months ago and cracked it. Hopefully my budget committee, a.k.a. my better half, will approve. Maybe I should shown her a dealer quote first. ;-)

Galco

If you show her the dealer quote, the car will put up for sale. Good luck with alternator and keep us posted.

MP4.2+6.0

Given area you are working in, make sure to look at front motor torque mount. Usually sort of difficult to get out (like what you are contending with), but it is right above alternator area. Make sure it isn't cracked or has oil coming out of it. Lost my W12 under CPO warranty and found my 2000 A6 4.2 cracked open (at higher relative miles) when I pulled cylinder head on that side.

Lexdiamondz10304

It will come out, just keep wiggiling. I just did this last week when replacing the oil cooler pipe. Dont need to remove anything else. To help with the reinstallation, I shaved off about 3mm from the 2 bolts. Went in with no problems.

SS_RTR

Thanks. I wiggled and preyed. Finally gave up and cut the head of the bolt off with a hack saw. Alternator wiggled right out after that. I figured any additional time is worth a couple dollars for a new bolt. Hopefully I will have better luck with the new bolt after making it a few mm shorter.

SS_RTR

Now that I have the alternator out, the front motor torque mount looks like it's in good shape.