Suspension Air Leak Troubleshooting
08-26-2014, 08:39 PM
#41
AudiWorld Super User
Just an update,
I spoke with my mechanic today and he said she needs a new strut, compressor and relay. Also recommends doing the other strut at the same time.
I was hoping the compressor wouldn't have gone its something like $1300 from the stealer. I guess in the < 2 miles between my failure of the strut, the compressor must've burned out. I'm surprised the engineers would'nt prevent the compressor from burning out when there's a leak in the system.
What I need to figure out is if I want to replace the other "good" strut now or wait until it fails as well. I'm worried when that side eventually fails I'll need to replace the compressor again.
As much as I love my car I'm starting to question if it's time to get her back on the rode and get into a newer A8.
I spoke with my mechanic today and he said she needs a new strut, compressor and relay. Also recommends doing the other strut at the same time.
I was hoping the compressor wouldn't have gone its something like $1300 from the stealer. I guess in the < 2 miles between my failure of the strut, the compressor must've burned out. I'm surprised the engineers would'nt prevent the compressor from burning out when there's a leak in the system.
What I need to figure out is if I want to replace the other "good" strut now or wait until it fails as well. I'm worried when that side eventually fails I'll need to replace the compressor again.
As much as I love my car I'm starting to question if it's time to get her back on the rode and get into a newer A8.
Compressor is protected from overheating, but if it is broken buy it on eBay. One from Germany (~$600). The other strut may outlast your ownership easily.
If you can afford new A8 go for it. If new car has to be downsizing to best Toyota in the world stay with A8 or you will be sorry.
08-26-2014, 09:38 PM
#42
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I would recommend that you replace the strut (only one) first. Buy refurbished one from eBay. Your compressor may be fine. Check the relay and the fuse. Post the scan here.
Compressor is protected from overheating, but if it is broken buy it on eBay. One from Germany (~$600). The other strut may outlast your ownership easily.
If you can afford new A8 go for it. If new car has to be downsizing to best Toyota in the world stay with A8 or you will be sorry.
Compressor is protected from overheating, but if it is broken buy it on eBay. One from Germany (~$600). The other strut may outlast your ownership easily.
If you can afford new A8 go for it. If new car has to be downsizing to best Toyota in the world stay with A8 or you will be sorry.
thanks for your advice. I mentioned to my mechanic about trying the rebuilt struts (I mentioned the Arnott) he didn't recommend it stating I'd be paying for labor again if there's a problem. I think he's charging around 400 labor for the strut but not sure yet.
Knowing I'm not doing the work myself would you still recommend a rebuilt?
also good news on the other strut and hopefully I'll catch a break with the compressor as well not sure if I can get the codes but he mentioned he couldn't pinpoint the leak since the compressor was out, I was hoping a broken line. perhaps the relay will fix the compressor.
btw I wish I could afford a new A8 - boy the look good, I meant to say a newer A8
08-27-2014, 07:24 AM
#43
AudiWorld Super User
If you do not have scan replacing a strut, or anything else, can be waste of money. As somebody said it may be just line and blown fuse or relay. Scan would show why the compressor is not working. Connecting direct power to it should be the next. If it works next is checking the fuse and the relay. If it doesn't replace it and than check for the leak. If it is strut replace it.
I would recommend rebuilt for more than one reason. Obviously price, but also you want fairly close performance of your shock absorbers and rebuild has one similar to your other shock absorber (they do not rebuild them). New one would work better and possibly create some weird swaying. Most of Arnott struts has no problem, so your chances are good.
$400 is too much for replacing one strut. It is 5 hours @ $80 per hour. I can do it in my garage, just with a floor jack, easy in 2. Some guys did it recently so they should correct me if I am too optimistic.
Problems like this is exactly why we recommend buying VCDS to all owners, not just DIY'ers. $350 would pay itself right away.
Edit: Newer A8 doesn't necessarily mean better. For example, if a previous owner was to enthusiastic over speed bumps struts may be worst.
I would recommend rebuilt for more than one reason. Obviously price, but also you want fairly close performance of your shock absorbers and rebuild has one similar to your other shock absorber (they do not rebuild them). New one would work better and possibly create some weird swaying. Most of Arnott struts has no problem, so your chances are good.
$400 is too much for replacing one strut. It is 5 hours @ $80 per hour. I can do it in my garage, just with a floor jack, easy in 2. Some guys did it recently so they should correct me if I am too optimistic.
Problems like this is exactly why we recommend buying VCDS to all owners, not just DIY'ers. $350 would pay itself right away.
Edit: Newer A8 doesn't necessarily mean better. For example, if a previous owner was to enthusiastic over speed bumps struts may be worst.
Last edited by mishar; 08-27-2014 at 07:28 AM.
08-27-2014, 07:01 PM
#44
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If you do not have scan replacing a strut, or anything else, can be waste of money. As somebody said it may be just line and blown fuse or relay. Scan would show why the compressor is not working. Connecting direct power to it should be the next. If it works next is checking the fuse and the relay. If it doesn't replace it and than check for the leak. If it is strut replace it.
I would recommend rebuilt for more than one reason. Obviously price, but also you want fairly close performance of your shock absorbers and rebuild has one similar to your other shock absorber (they do not rebuild them). New one would work better and possibly create some weird swaying. Most of Arnott struts has no problem, so your chances are good.
$400 is too much for replacing one strut. It is 5 hours @ $80 per hour. I can do it in my garage, just with a floor jack, easy in 2. Some guys did it recently so they should correct me if I am too optimistic.
Problems like this is exactly why we recommend buying VCDS to all owners, not just DIY'ers. $350 would pay itself right away.
Edit: Newer A8 doesn't necessarily mean better. For example, if a previous owner was to enthusiastic over speed bumps struts may be worst.
I would recommend rebuilt for more than one reason. Obviously price, but also you want fairly close performance of your shock absorbers and rebuild has one similar to your other shock absorber (they do not rebuild them). New one would work better and possibly create some weird swaying. Most of Arnott struts has no problem, so your chances are good.
$400 is too much for replacing one strut. It is 5 hours @ $80 per hour. I can do it in my garage, just with a floor jack, easy in 2. Some guys did it recently so they should correct me if I am too optimistic.
Problems like this is exactly why we recommend buying VCDS to all owners, not just DIY'ers. $350 would pay itself right away.
Edit: Newer A8 doesn't necessarily mean better. For example, if a previous owner was to enthusiastic over speed bumps struts may be worst.
Ok great info I appreciate your response!!
09-06-2014, 08:59 PM
#45
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I just went through this myself - 2004 A8L. Error codes: Lower Limit Exceeded and Air Leak Detected. Culprit was the RF Strut. The diagnosis was pretty easy in this case. The system would attempt to level the suspension, and the strut was holding air well enough to pump up - but would lose it rapidly causing the pump to recycle . . . recycle . . . recycle. Visual observation (and listening to the air leaving the strut) made locating the problem rather simple.
The reality of driving our beloved 10 year old exhibits of German engineering excellence is that the parts do wear out, and these air struts are notorious for failing after 8-10 years and 100K+ miles. The air bladders eventually dry out and rupture. It's not a matter of if, just a matter of when.
My solution was to buy an Arnott rebuilt strut - just Google "Arnott strut Audi A4 20xx" and you will find many sources for these. I bought mine from Parts Geek for just under $600 US plus a $300 refundable core. If you have a lift or a good floor jack you can do it yourself - I don't, so I had a local mechanic who drives an Audi do it for me for a couple hours of labor.
The reality of driving our beloved 10 year old exhibits of German engineering excellence is that the parts do wear out, and these air struts are notorious for failing after 8-10 years and 100K+ miles. The air bladders eventually dry out and rupture. It's not a matter of if, just a matter of when.
My solution was to buy an Arnott rebuilt strut - just Google "Arnott strut Audi A4 20xx" and you will find many sources for these. I bought mine from Parts Geek for just under $600 US plus a $300 refundable core. If you have a lift or a good floor jack you can do it yourself - I don't, so I had a local mechanic who drives an Audi do it for me for a couple hours of labor.
09-26-2014, 11:24 AM
#46
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A8 Right Rear Strut Leak?
I've started having an issue with the adaptive air suspension on my 2006 A8, but unlike others here, my issue is with the rear. After about 30 hours of non-use, the right rear sags down to the bottom, and the yellow and green flashing low suspension lights appear on the dash. I believe the compressor is OK because as soon as the car is started, the suspension is recharged and the car levels out and drives great. As long as you start the car within the 30 hr. period, you would never know there is a problem.
I read the "home study" guide on the air suspension to learn a bit more about the system, and I'm guessing that these symptoms point to a slow leak in the right rear strut. I don't believe it's the extra pressure tank because it's only the right side.
I don't want to spend a lot of money on this as I plan on selling this car, as I recently purchased a third Audi.
My questions are: (a) is my diagnosis probably right? (b) is there something else that could be wrong/leaking? (c) is there a way for me to check? (d) is there a good source for refurbished rear struts? I checked Arnott, but they only seem to have front struts. eBay only seems to have used rear struts and refurbished fronts. (e) I am quite handy with "home" tools (renovated entire houses), but have never tried working on a car in a meaningful way -- is replacing a rear strut a DIY job? Any tips/advice?
Thanks for any advice!
I read the "home study" guide on the air suspension to learn a bit more about the system, and I'm guessing that these symptoms point to a slow leak in the right rear strut. I don't believe it's the extra pressure tank because it's only the right side.
I don't want to spend a lot of money on this as I plan on selling this car, as I recently purchased a third Audi.
My questions are: (a) is my diagnosis probably right? (b) is there something else that could be wrong/leaking? (c) is there a way for me to check? (d) is there a good source for refurbished rear struts? I checked Arnott, but they only seem to have front struts. eBay only seems to have used rear struts and refurbished fronts. (e) I am quite handy with "home" tools (renovated entire houses), but have never tried working on a car in a meaningful way -- is replacing a rear strut a DIY job? Any tips/advice?
Thanks for any advice!
09-26-2014, 12:22 PM
#48
AudiWorld Super User
Welcome!
a) You are probably right, but scan would help here. You should buy VCDS especially having few Audi's.
b) Yes. It could be air line and Valve Block, but it is probably the strut.
c) Yes. Spray it with soapy water and bubbles should show the leak.
d) Since most problems are with front struts eBay rears must be still good.
e) Handy is handy. You can do it yourself.
b) Yes. It could be air line and Valve Block, but it is probably the strut.
c) Yes. Spray it with soapy water and bubbles should show the leak.
d) Since most problems are with front struts eBay rears must be still good.
e) Handy is handy. You can do it yourself.
09-26-2014, 03:10 PM
#49
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I'm on my second urAllroad, an 02 w/about 200k and the 6MT . Purchased about 5k ago and just repaired my deflation problem; CHEAPLY. My mech was getting similar codes, but went straight to the Compressor.
I thought I had a bag leak up front, but he wanted to confirm there was sufficient air being created by the motor. Upon removal, it couldn't even push his finger off the outlet when the motor was energized.
Like many, eBay was the next search where we found plenty of new compressors for ~$500. Fortunately, there were rebuild kits listed too for about $20. We went this route.
Upon kit's arrival, we removed the pump from underneath the car, disassembled the piston ring, cleaned the gruve then reinstalled the new ring & rubber O-ring and put it back together. It was a very simple project.
Afterward, we turn on the ignition and waited for the purr from the motor. Silence. Next the scan tool was reconnected to clear some codes and the motor came to life. The suspension did its' Lazarus imitation (rising from the dead) to normal height. What a difference compared to zero travel!
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
Coindidentally, here's a story about contemporary air ride suspensions:
Air Ride Logic: How to Diagnose Common Behaviors
Happy motoring,
Dale
I thought I had a bag leak up front, but he wanted to confirm there was sufficient air being created by the motor. Upon removal, it couldn't even push his finger off the outlet when the motor was energized.
Like many, eBay was the next search where we found plenty of new compressors for ~$500. Fortunately, there were rebuild kits listed too for about $20. We went this route.
Upon kit's arrival, we removed the pump from underneath the car, disassembled the piston ring, cleaned the gruve then reinstalled the new ring & rubber O-ring and put it back together. It was a very simple project.
Afterward, we turn on the ignition and waited for the purr from the motor. Silence. Next the scan tool was reconnected to clear some codes and the motor came to life. The suspension did its' Lazarus imitation (rising from the dead) to normal height. What a difference compared to zero travel!
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
Coindidentally, here's a story about contemporary air ride suspensions:
Air Ride Logic: How to Diagnose Common Behaviors
Happy motoring,
Dale
10-10-2014, 12:38 PM
#50
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Need help in replacing rear strut
a) You are probably right, but scan would help here. You should buy VCDS especially having few Audi's.
b) Yes. It could be air line and Valve Block, but it is probably the strut.
c) Yes. Spray it with soapy water and bubbles should show the leak.
d) Since most problems are with front struts eBay rears must be still good.
e) Handy is handy. You can do it yourself.
b) Yes. It could be air line and Valve Block, but it is probably the strut.
c) Yes. Spray it with soapy water and bubbles should show the leak.
d) Since most problems are with front struts eBay rears must be still good.
e) Handy is handy. You can do it yourself.
I've found details and photos for a A8 D2 rear suspension, but could not find anything for a D3. Can anyone provide guidance, a link to step-by-step instructions, photos, or any other advice? Thanks
