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Suspension strut or level control

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Old 11-21-2015, 07:24 PM
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I'm still back at a solenoid failure on the valve block. You had a code for that, specific to one solenoid. The code is also current (11/16/2015) rather than some old historical blip. And it also presumably means the valve block was talking to your suspension controller module, since I expect the solenoid set up is controlled and sends its signals back and forth only through the control unit. If in doubt, clear the code and run it again. If still there, I wouldn't be jumping to the brain unit in the absence of a code for it yet obviously with a code for the valve block.
Old 11-26-2015, 09:51 AM
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First lesson learned is to trust the fault codes from the scan and listen to advice on this forum. I managed to borrow a valve block and fitted it - car sat level again . I have now ordered a new replacement and am looking forward to not having the car look like its driving down hill all the time. I'm still curious as to why I could not communicate with the module . I will get back to that when the new valve block arrives. When calibrating the new block is the automatic setting considered "Normal mode" or is it comfort/dynamic. instructions say do it in Normal mode ?
Old 11-26-2015, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tedmur
First lesson learned is to trust the fault codes from the scan and listen to advice on this forum. I managed to borrow a valve block and fitted it - car sat level again . I have now ordered a new replacement and am looking forward to not having the car look like its driving down hill all the time. I'm still curious as to why I could not communicate with the module . I will get back to that when the new valve block arrives. When calibrating the new block is the automatic setting considered "Normal mode" or is it comfort/dynamic. instructions say do it in Normal mode ?
Normal/default would be comfort (top setting other than lift).

But, why is calibrating necessary if only valve block changed? It is just a set of pressure on/off set of switches in the end. You can reduce the variables with everything else in good shape physically to the level sensors at each corner deciding what the height is, and the control unit making the decisions and then turning on compressor when needed and actuating solenoids to send air to right place. On the other hand, if you want to rebalance the overall look/ride height or do the VCDS lowering tweak, then yes have at it.
Old 12-03-2015, 11:46 AM
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I fitted the new solenoid block and the car leveled up again. I did the calibration as well, don't know if I needed to but the car felt better afterwards. My next problem has now arisen. I left the car in for the bumper to be removed and I suspect they had it on a lift without putting it in jack mode. I was sure I had seen a 15 bar reading from the compressor but now am only seeing 7.8 as per the attached photos . I also had an over temp fault which I cleared. Am I looking at the correct blocks or is this a regulated pressure.
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tedmur
I fitted the new solenoid block and the car leveled up again. I did the calibration as well, don't know if I needed to but the car felt better afterwards. My next problem has now arisen. I left the car in for the bumper to be removed and I suspect they had it on a lift without putting it in jack mode. I was sure I had seen a 15 bar reading from the compressor but now am only seeing 7.8 as per the attached photos . I also had an over temp fault which I cleared. Am I looking at the correct blocks or is this a regulated pressure.
As far as I remember there is no pressure regulator other than max pressure switch (~16 bar). There is only one pressure sensor. Pressure varies as air is pumped or used for leveling. Max pressure is just after the compressor stop pumping.
Old 12-03-2015, 03:26 PM
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If that's the case then my compressor is only putting out half the expected pressure. I think I should order the repair kit any before I do more damage.
Old 12-03-2015, 04:49 PM
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If you want a definitive pressure test on your compressor run a Accumulator test using the basic settings as per the info in this thread

It should also be noted that when you run it, you will have tell it to run more then once to reach peak pressure as the function only runs for 60 seconds.

I made a screen recording doing the same thing on my car, the only difference is my screen will be different in the basic settings section due to custom label file but if you select the correct block as per the thread it will do the same test.

here's the video, pay attention to the accumulator charging part


Last edited by haggisuk; 12-03-2015 at 04:52 PM.
Old 12-04-2015, 11:33 AM
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Thanks Haggisuk
Some great info there with the video backup as well. I'll give that a go over the week end and report back . I do notice the car is slow to rise so I think the compressor rebuild will be required anyway.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tedmur
If that's the case then my compressor is only putting out half the expected pressure. I think I should order the repair kit any before I do more damage.
This does not sound right as a conclusion FWIW. Doesn't account for load/weight differences. Pressure should be relatively proportional to load on wheels. As in throw a bunch of concrete sacks, Mob bodies or whatever in the trunk and it will show a lot higher pressure than if car is sitting there empty and no one in it, and yet more so with even the almost 150 pound+ variance toward back wheels from simple things like full to near empty gas tank.
Old 12-04-2015, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tedmur
If that's the case then my compressor is only putting out half the expected pressure. I think I should order the repair kit any before I do more damage.
May be yes, may be no. Make your compressor work by lifting the car, wait until it stops and measure the pressure than. That would be max pressure your compressor produce.


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