1Wasserwerks

Well, swapping the snows wasn't too bad of a deal. While I was up under the left front wheel well, took a look at the front upper bushing, of course it is appearing to be cracked. I haven't heard any noises from the front but figured I would check while the wheel is off.
71K on the clock now, front pads looked good, starting to get the groove in the lip of the rotor, I am guessing at least these were replaced once. Also some inner most wear on the left front tire, so it looks like at least the upper front arm should be replaced. I am thinking that if I'm going in to replace that I might as well replace all 4 uppers. I still have to replace that left strut as well.
Rear pads need to be replaced, real soon. I know the procedure is here somewhere using vcds. Thinking I will stick with regular replacement pads at this point.
I'm going to miss my summer sneakers....

MP4.2+6.0

See my recent long post on upper control arms/bushings. As an S8, dealer is your only option for the S8 specific bushings. From having just done mine, the surprise to me was once I pulled them completely off the car and inspected carefully, it was actually the rear uppers that were somewhat more cracked than the fronts. I could not tell that from visual inspection. FWIW, I also did the sway bar links; relatively inexpensive--and easy--if you use the Lemforder OES ones. If you are running snows, replace at least your (ball joint side) pinch bolts too--prone to getting stuck on D3's in more severe conditions. I typically replace all the nuts and bolts now when I do suspension work, but certainly do those bolts; I also put some anti seize on the shafts (but not threads) on mine.

BTW, you will like the results post- suspension work and alignment rfom my own experience. Mine went from still feeling pretty good, but still like a (well maintained) used car, to pretty much feeling like when you first drive a new one home. Very nice! Your tire indicates you are getting pretty far along on the need to do the work BTW, and at 71K you are well due from my own experience and calculations. Expensive tire wear wise if you put off much.

Measure your front rotors with a micrometer if you have one. You will probably find new rotors will be in order on the next pad change cycle at those miles, unless they were done already. Mic'ing will tell you that--1mm wear from new spec probably already changed; more like 2mm likely not changed so far. Mic your rears when you do the pads too. You can get into the front rotors to grab a measurement with a micrometer with everything in place, but it seems impossible to find a decent spot to measure on the backs except when the caliper is removed to do the pad change.

1Wasserwerks

Thanks for the tips MP, I didn't want to hijack the other thread with my issues. I have calipers and micrometers so checkimg shouldn't be a problem. The fronts are getting the ridge, noticable, but not severe. The pads have lots of meat on them still, so I was anticipating new rotors with pads at some point. The rear rotors didn't appear to be worn as much, not sure on the frequency of pad changes on these bad boys, but my wife's 04' Passat eats them up around 40K iirc.
I redid the front end on her passat this past spring, so I am familiar with the suspension bits. Anti-sieze isn't a problem and I agree on replacing that outer pinch bolt. I just hope it isn't the same bitch to remove that the Passat was.

1Wasserwerks

These look great on here I think, wish I had these for summer wheels....

cre8value

Looks great! What wheels and tires for the snow setup?

MP4.2+6.0

See my mail follow up off line.

Meanwhile on brakes, given the W12 and S8 is basically the same brake set up and sizing, for rotors my measurements over a bunch of cycles now shows:

1. The rotors basically last two sets of pads. In other words, figure on every other time. Dealer rotor pricing on these has dropped a fair amount by the way, so not too painful even with OE parts. With my driving (more suburban stop and go a lot of the time), I see 35-40K miles on pads and about 75-80K estimated rotor life.

2. The rear wear cycle is actually about the same as the front on rotors. The reason is the overall spec. for the rears doesn't permit as much total wear--I think its 2mm in rear and 3mm in front (only on W12/S8 385mm's). Also, the rear pads are so much smaller than the fronts, so their cycle time is similar too.

3. For what its worth, I use EBC reds. I have also swapped back in dealer pads at one point. Really similar feel, just somewhat less dust. Similar pricing between EBC and discounted dealer. [later edited to say EBC, not ECS]

1Wasserwerks

@cre8value they are 19" Michelin Alpin PA4's on Hartmann somethings...Hartmann Wheels - Audi Wheels, stock replicas - hartmannwheels.com
Hartmann Wheels - Audi Wheels, stock replicas - hartmannwheels.com
@MP I received your email, thank you. I think I will just go for stock replacement rear pads at this point till the wear cylce matches up again then change rotors and pads all around and match them up with the EBC reds.