ltooz_a6_a8_q7

made the same mistake, missing the fishy stuff. Now I know to use both.

If you've seen the car and it's good, then I think it's OK. The only thing I would worry about is if it's just fixed recently, not knowing how well they fixed the car.

Cheers,

Louis

Dusty280z

Could you explain to me how you measured this and what to check?

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Take the tape measure - from the center of wheel to the lowest edge of the fender. Mine are off 1" max. I posted my measurement on 4 wheels, I can't find it anywhere.

Louis

Dusty280z

Excellent video thank you. I will be sure to go through everything I can to test it.

JohnnyJ A6Q

While what Louis stated is one way of checking, that is not how to check that all is square, you measure the centerline wheelbase on both sides, they should be the exact same, or out by a minimal amount, an 06 A8L has a wheelbase of 121", where the A8 SWB is 115.9", measured from centerline of the front wheel to centerline of the rear wheel as pictured, and the way that Louis did his is fine for checking front sub-frame assembly to body, but I don't get why he has a 1" difference side to side, that should not be.....


https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...+A8L+wheelbase

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I learn something new every day. Actually if we don't have the exact specs, as long as both sides have the same length, it's good?

Cheers,

Louis

SaltyIrishman

Dusty, please know this is coming from a position of trying to look out for my fellow Audi enthusiast and read it as such: Suspension WILL cost you MUCH more than $500. And there is dirty water in the passenger inside taillight. Not worth the $100-$150 to the dealer to replace the lens. And the rear license plate frame surround is on upside down...and you found out from a fellow board member that it was wrecked and the dealer didn't disclose this to you...I'd not be comfortable buying this car from a dealer that is so nonchalant. This is a pure auction to lipstick "quick flip" job, which is fine, IF everything works properly.

If $500 is a painful financial amount for you to part with, in my opinion, an A8 is not the car you want to purchase...ESPECIALLY one with known expensive problems. This car was $80K+ new and will cost money to maintain, even if it is $10K for you on initial purchase. Also, have you gotten insurance quotes? It is the most expensive car I have ever had to insure and I have a flawless driving record the last 10 years, am married and have multi car and house bundled into mine. More than my Porsche 996 and 993 when I was in my early twenties, renting, and unmarried.

Caveat Emptor

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

No dealer would take the deposit if the customer decided to walk away the deal. The problem is the car interior is so nice, all the options, it's easy to overlook all other problems.

MP4.2+6.0

Lesson in here BTW to put car deposits down on a credit card. Any car I have bought seems to allow at least initial (smaller) payments on a CC. Sometimes I even ask if they want a check given the couple percent they pay for CC transactions, and the salesperson always says no issue--as in, you can tell what they are comp'ed on (or not) and they want the sale ASAP.

Obviously the CC gives you that whole set of quasi self help dispute/challenge mechanisms if dealer balks at refund. If you used one, file a dispute ASAP. If it were me I would dispute the charge on the basis of fraud, misrepresentation and concealment from what has been described. And if you want to be hard line, file a dispute with the state level licensing board for dealers if one exists. Not representing things like accident repair correctly strikes me as more than a hand slap in at least some states, especially if there is prior history.

On the body and frame type stuff BTW, I would walk in general, but for those who want to check: Besides the wheelbase measurements side to side, you want to check it diagonally. Those should match of course too. Just like squaring and plumbing a wall or window opening. A little harder to do it without a real rack, but if you are inventive its possible. With wheels on car and steering straight ahead, take a level (or wood cut to right length of general tire diameter with a level along side) and run it vertically right at the hub centerline. Make a clean cross mark on the ground, preferably like a concrete floor. Or put blue tape down and mark on that. Do same for all four corners. Now move vehicle and you can check all the measurements with a std. tape measure. Front to back (wheelbase) and diagonals should each be very close--subject only to leveling errors or minor tire differences. Front and rear widths will always vary since Audi seems to love different front and rear tracks, probably to deal with the front push.

Dusty280z

I am taking all this to heart guys, I really appreciate the help.

I was really wanting another car on Monday but the dealer told me it was sold. I then called about this grey car and they said that people were trying to buy it and that they had submitted a credit application. Now being there were only two cars that fit my criteria for sale on the east coast I rushed into putting the deposit and stuff.

I have now found that the original car that I wanted is not sold after all and I have a feeling that I will be backing out of the deal on the grey car for this one: 2006 AUDI A8 L 4.2L

Carfax is clean. I asked for help from JohnnyJ to run the Autocheck for me and it came back clean as well. Overall this black car seems like a much better option. We don't get a picture of the Air suspension settings screen so I can't tell if it has the unselectable problem like the grey car does.

I am so very very glad I joined the forums and posted about that car because I would have it home and be knee deep in problems I could avoid.