sbcrazy

Hey everyone, I am going to order my parts for the Timing Belt job. I have read a lot of info on here about how to do the job. I wanted to get any feedback on my part list and what parts should be changed if needed.

From audiusaparts.com

-Water Pump (new)
-T-Stat
-T-Stat Seal

From ECS

Continental Timing belt kit; (confirmed with ecs all parts are cont. germany made.)
- Timing Belt
- Tensioning lever
- Small relay roller
- Large relay roller

oem timing belt hydraulic tensioner (do I need to replace this?)
cont. acc belt
oem acc belt idler pulley
1 gal g13 coolant

Thanks for any advice.

MP4.2+6.0

Be careful on the serp belt tensioner if you replace it use anything but OEM. I wasted my money on one (NTN) for my older A6 4.2 that literally went in the trash in a year or two when I found tracking somewhat of angle to the belt.

You need more than one gallon of coolant. One gallon only gets you to 8 quarts of radiator fill capacity at 50:50. Debating the exact ratio aside, you want at least two jugs. Do a full drain, including taking out the block drain plug. I'm not a G13 fan, but its all you can get from Audi now with its carbon scoring and enviro correctness. It's basically G12++ diluted with more glycerin to reduce Euro carbon math. G12++ is still findable via Pentosin ++ but not any cheaper. If you have older G12 in there as the early ones probably do, either ++ or 13 is better longer term.

sbcrazy

I should be more precise with the tensioner. It's the timing belt hydraulic tensioner, does that need to be replaced? I wasn't going to mess with the serpentine tensioner.

Jack88

Yes, it should be replaced.

sbcrazy

Ok thamks. Any thoughts on the continental relay rollers?

Mister Bally

I would use OEM from a dealer. That said, Continental is a very good name. You need to be mindful of counterfeit parts.

I also sent you a PM.

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, in theory on replace. Just be sober you are signing up for the proverbial Full Monty with that job wise. The main crank pulley gets in the way of the belt hydraulic tensioner, at least from my C5 4.2 work. See this post with a numbered picture at reply #2: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...b-job-2885062/ The hydraulic tensioner is down there at location B. I haven't done the D3, but from the similar C5 the main crank pulley then has to come out. It does not otherwise except for that. If you are already signed up for the full front clip pull, no incremental big deal. If you had any allusions of doing it without that, this would probably be about the proverbial straw breaking point.

No idea on Conti rollers. They aren't a primary bearing supplier like an SK, SKF, ***, etc. AFAIK so they are presumably repacking somebody else's product.

sbcrazy

thanks mp. Im pretty mechanically inclined. I Plan to do a full D.I.Y. write up with pictures for anyone else doing this. Mishars is good but not too in depth. It is going to be a full weekend project. should be fun!!!

Does anyone have any experience with ordering from audipartsusa.com (are they a good supplier)

and I have seen on a couple different sites that the Re Manufactured Water Pump has a metal Impeller. Is this correct? If so is a Metal impeller better?

MP4.2+6.0

I routinely use audiusaparts for virtually everything, and have for several years. There are a few other dealers who also sell online at similar discounts. For me they have the right mix of fully competitive on line dealer pricing, good responsiveness and follow up, reliable shipping and proximity to me (2 days from their ship date) but no sales tax. When I can get authenticated OES, then I may use an AutohausAZ or some others (including Amazon) to buy something like various Bosch, Lemforder, NGK or other parts.

Metal impeller. I have seen some really cheap crap metal impellers too that look like the half baked stamped cooling fan on my 1973 Audi 100LS alternator. Used to eat metal impeller pumps for lunch regularly BTW, along with head gaskets. Net, by itself I think it's meaningless. My W12 has a plastic impeller. So, is it crap? Don't quite think Audi would have gone with the lowest cost supplier idea on a W12, or the W8 which shares same pump. I just changed it by chance (and not clear if there was actually an issue but definitely not impeller). Impeller was still essentially same as new at 114K miles, other than stained like any impeller by immersion in coolant for 10 years. But hey, makes good web hand wave ad copy I guess to say metal impeller somehow.

On the other hand I have had to replace many a crap aftermarket water pump on Audis over the years that were peeing coolant liberally out the front blow out port or grinding its bearing brains out, or both. They used to be Italian specials (Fix It Again Tony...) like Graf. Most all I remember were metal impellers and aluminum castings, old American iron aside. Now they often have other cute Euro sounding names unless you look too close and find either they are made in some no name place in Central Europe or China. Easy for me; stock Audi, and stock Audi aren't known as weak or trouble prone. Pay me now or pay me later. Or for many of these non OE/OES parts, pay me and any mechanic involved twice or more until you conclude "cheap" means "cheap" in its multiple meanings, and different or gimmick or sometimes pretend Euro brands aren't any ticket to greener pastures.

Mister Bally

Net, make sure the water pump you get for the 4.2 BFM motor comes in a box plainly marked VW/Audi and that the part inside has a VW/Audi logo as part of the casting. I believe that those water pumps only have a cast (not stamped) aluminum/magnesium impeller.

For those replacing theirs the first time, they will understand why you don't want to have to replace it prematurely later. Also, the OEM gasket has a feel of quality versus the "fishpaper/meatwrap" one that Saleri supplies.