storka

Hi
Just wondering if anyone can tell what else I need for a timing belt change on my 2004 3.7. 75k never been done.
I plan to get all the gear and get my mechanic to do it.
The local Audi dealer does not fill me with confidence especially when the service manager did not even know it had one and a few other things they have and have not done.
I will print out the procedure from elsawin and there are utube clips of it being done. Also the write up from mr Baily. Is very helpful.
I know I need the cam locking tool and another two tools ( have them written down but not with me)
I can pick these up on eBay for a reasonable price.
The timing belt, rollers and water pump.
What else am I likely to need ?.
I am in Australia so I will see what's available here.
The 3.7 is the same as the 4.2 I think.
Oem or what to stay away from ???
Audi dealer was a bit vag(e) wither the price to do it.
Somewhere between $1,500 and 2,000 so I figure getting done elsewhere will come in on the low side.
While the front was off I was going to see about the front torque mount
Also I get the front torque mount short to plus error.
Always had this fault. I see it on a lot of other people's read outs.
Tried to read up on it.
Is it actually a fault with this or a gremlin in the coding?
I read it is not actually wired on the early models.
Sorry if this has been done to death somewhere else.
I have searched through the threads.
Cheers Graham

MP4.2+6.0

Also plan to do thermostat while in there (only accessible w/ belt off if like 4.2), and of course coolant. There are also the tensioners. Serpentine belt is a judgment call. I often do it; you are only at 75K miles but it is > 10 years. It has to come off anyway, so it's pure parts cost and no added labor.

mishar

You may also check the link in my signature.

storka

Ok thanks will do.
Forgot to say this will be a project for January.
Basically want to round up all the goodies so I don't have it sitting dismantled for 3 weeks.
Or The bride will start abusing me for tampering with it.
I would do it my self but not enough room in the garage.

the_duke

I did it a couple of weeks ago. I wasn't hard at all. Probably took me 6 hours. I could do it again in 3. But I wasn't is a hurry. The tread linked below is the one I referenced. Why are you buying all the tools if you are having your mechanic do it? If he knows VAG cars he should have most if not all these items. Crank lock pin is the same as my 2.7T and probably the same as others. Side note. Installing the lock pin was the hardest part. Access to that area is limited. I started it by hand and then used long and short extensions with a wobble or two in order to thread it all the way in. The torque mount is only electrically monitored on the early D3's. In the later years they did away with it. There is a TSB that basically tells you to install a resister to trick the ECU. I didn't mess with it as that code doesn't really matter.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ement-2887533/

MP4.2+6.0

Further to the duke's response, basic lock bar has been the same for years for the 90 degree V motors, deep back into the V6's. I used same lock bar on my 1996 2.8L 12V V6 for example. Similarly the other tools in general--lock pin, cam toothed/gear wheel puller, etc. A mechanic up to the job should already have and be experienced in those.

On front torque mount besides the electric stuff, look at the more basic question: is it cracked/broken or not? Mine was on my 2000 A6 4.2 by 130ish K miles, and my A8 W12 was even while still under CPO warranty. A cracked mount is broken, and you then find telltale this dark very thick oil (or dark stains) around lower part of mount or on surfaces directly below it. Easy to get at when doing belt and similar disassembly work up front. Hard otherwise. Important mount to keep engine from twisting when throttle position changing (..."torque"), and it also helps reduce idle vibration a bit.

storka

Great that's what I was looking for.
Also might see if vw mechanic around here has the tools.

storka

Well finally got it in for the timing belt change at my Indy mech.
There Audi specialist ( once did a timing belt on a A4 ) is on the job.
They rang about lunch time to tell they had been sent the wrong gates kit.
Last letter on the part number was wrong. Suppliers fault apparently.
Anyway stopped in and had a look. Front was all stripped down.
Gave them the Audi workshop manual and Mishars timing belt printouts.
He found Mishars easier to follow and more straight forward.
Anyway correct parts should be in a airbag here tomorrow.
He says there is a small leak around what he thinks is the cam angle sensor.
I will have a look if i can find some info on it tonight.
Or does anyone have any info or links to this repair ?
Anyway may be on the road again tomorrow.
I told them any thing suspect to fix I don't want to be taking the front off the car for a few more years.
Also doing the water pump. They seem to think its not worth doing the thermostat.

mishar

Be sure to replace thermostat. If it fails it is whole job again because it is hidden behind the belt.

storka

yes I know but he keeps saying it will be ok as its never overheated.
right from the start I asked them to order one.
well he services my work truck and I have been going to him for a few years
if it goes in the next few years I will remind him.
I might annoy about tomorrow when I go past.
Also when I was there today he had the grill and front out but not the head lights. I see you and other videos they do. He said I don't know why they take all the other stuff off?
also got to get him to fix the camshaft leaks.
If he has to order seals for the camshaft I will jump on him to get a thermostat.




Why replace your 4.2L V8 Audi A8 thermostat during timing belt service? The thermostat and housing is located behind the timing belt on the passenger side of the engine. It makes sense from a labor standpoint, since timing belt dis-assembly is required for thermostat replacement. The engine temperature is controlled by the thermostat. Near the end of it's designated service life the thermostat spring temper changes. This causes the thermostat to open too much allowing the engine to run cooler, resulting in poor fuel optimization, decreased fuel economy, and less horsepower.