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The engineer in me says that the ramps are dangerous. There is no visible diagonal bracing. I would add two diagonal braces on each side in a X configuration from corner to corner.
Once that is done, then it should be good to go assuming that the X bracing was screwed into each upright.
I would use something like 2" right angle steel as X bracing. Steel would be cheap. One piece of steel on the inside and another on the outside of each ramp.
Last edited by richard-tx; 04-17-2015 at 06:27 AM.
The engineer in me says that the ramps are dangerous. There is no visible diagonal bracing. I would add two diagonal braces on each side in a X configuration from corner to corner.
Once that is done, then it should be good to go assuming that the X bracing was screwed into each upright.
I would use something like 2" right angle steel as X bracing. Steel would be cheap. One piece of steel on the inside and another on the outside of each ramp.
Old engineer in me says that 5/8" plywood backing glued and nailed is much stronger than braces and it is not in the way when stored ramps are used as sheaves.
The engineer in me says that the ramps are dangerous. There is no visible diagonal bracing. I would add two diagonal braces on each side in a X configuration from corner to corner.
Once that is done, then it should be good to go assuming that the X bracing was screwed into each upright.
...
? Plywood = inherent bracing in all directions, not just diagonal. Std. modern sheer wall. The more relevant diagonal brace would be between the two units so it can't pancake. But IIRC Misha may have some removable pieces there, plus I see the twin bolted cross pieces for starters.
Two post lift would be ideal, but you need a ton of headroom and in my case a new/heavily modified garage door as its an up and over type. Not to mention a house in the burbs. My downtown Chicago Townhouse twin garage just isn't spacious enough.
I would recommend simple and cheap ATF refreshment. Just draining about 5 liters and pouring 5 liters of fresh Lifeguard6 (or whatever is already in there). That is less than dropping the pan and replacing the filter, or flashing it three times in order to replace most of those 8 liters, but it is much better than "lifetime" ATF. Much cheaper too. Only important thing is proper level, but the procedure is not complicated.
Hello mishar, i'm EISENMANN from Spain. Your recomendation is just the same that told me the other week my ZF dealer ( friend of mine ) when he take a look in my S8 2008. In the S8 to fit out the pan you have to get out the 2 lines on the exhausts, and a lot of pieces, also one coolant Little line.
A lot of hours of job to get out the pan. My question for you is, if i drain and refill without touching the pan, the ZF dealer has to make some software actualization in the transmission ?.
I forgot to ask him about this. My car has actually ( 128.000 Kms ), he recomend me to do it about 90.000 milles ( 150.000 Kms ) or 8 years.
Hello mishar, i'm EISENMANN from Spain. Your recomendation is just the same that told me the other week my ZF dealer ( friend of mine ) when he take a look in my S8 2008. In the S8 to fit out the pan you have to get out the 2 lines on the exhausts, and a lot of pieces, also one coolant Little line.
A lot of hours of job to get out the pan. My question for you is, if i drain and refill without touching the pan, the ZF dealer has to make some software actualization in the transmission ?.
I forgot to ask him about this. My car has actually ( 128.000 Kms ), he recomend me to do it about 90.000 milles ( 150.000 Kms ) or 8 years.
Thank's
EISENMANN
If you refill it with same ATF there is no need for a software update.
04-16-2015, 07:23 PM
