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Old 08-26-2014, 08:31 PM   #1
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Default transmission troubles

I'm also having some trouble with my 05 4.2 A8L's iddle or transmission. (I have a post on air suspension trouble) The problems are currently minor but I fear could turn into a major problem.

My mechanic has checked out my transmission and found no problems, and recently did the fluid change at around 110,000 or whatever the interval was as part of that service.

>>I should mention that I had the "hooting" noise in my transmission at around 60,000 miles which the dealer corrected (while still under warranty) by using a different transmission fluid, I think it was the blue type. I'm sure he used the same type of fluid.
<<

The problems:
When the car is in gear (D or R) and my foot is on the brake I get some vibration as if the idle is to low and the car is going to stall.
I also occasionally get a rough shift even when i'm driving gently.

Again my mechanic has put it on a computer and found no codes said the pressure and everything looks good.

any ideas what could be going on?
also worst case has anyone had to rebuild their transmission?

Thanks
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:44 PM   #2
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Did your mechanic scan the engine too?
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by mishar View Post
Did your mechanic scan the engine too?
yes he did, didn't show anything.
I actually also just had the major service with new plugs etc, I was hoping I may have had a fouled plug but nothing...

He said she's clean
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:07 PM   #4
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Default Not enough data for anything definitive; speculation areas

If I were to guess, like others I would think motor first (plugs, coil packs, maybe a vacuum leak, etc.). Next on the vibration issue and maybe even the shift sensation, I would think about the motor mounts. Many ignore the codes for mount solenoids, and a lot seem to have them now in their scans. Also, if you also lose the torque mount (up on the front passenger (U.S.) side of the motor), from my W12 experience anyway you can get some more perceptible vibration. That one does not have a sensor from my W12 experience, so you won't get a code like you might for the primary two mounts.

Last, I would say maybe deep inside the tranny. Having dove way, way in on that recently, could be in the solenoids in the valve body (Mechatronic) and/or its seal to the main tranny case. A ZF specialized shop can deal with that as piece parts with the tranny in car, rather than a full rebuild, but they need to know what they are doing. Those generally won't show as codes and I'm not aware of any definitive test to prove the issue is there or not ahead of time, but you will get increasing shift issues as a clue--maybe the hoot, maybe a flared gear miss, maybe a hard shift clunk, etc. As it worsens it may kick out to "SAFE" mode if you don't adapt your driving to try to avoid the issue--not the way one wants to drive a nice car anyway though! A fluid drain that does NOT show any obvious bits of clutch, metal, etc. is an indirect pointer it is not a classic worn out or broken physical tranny, but something more subtle like in these parts.

FWIW, even though the 6 speed was also used in related flavors in tons of Audis, I could find very little about it. It is a very reliable tranny as they go, nothing like the comparative long term lemon five speed from the D2 that seemed to (un) reliably and pretty seriously fail at right around 100K. I get the sense there is almost no DIY serious wrenching and deep diagnostics going on for the D3 or Audi's more generally like there was back for the D2. If you tediously search, you can find some overlapping relevant info (including forum posts) for the very similar ZF six speed (RWD) fitted in the V8 BMW's, and some manufacturer type info from Jag and even Ford (Europe) and Hyundai IIRC. Often the earlier info is about the same "hoot" as Audi found (and Audi's TSB is as good or better than the others), but some of the BMW threads in recent years get deeper into the Mechatronic area.

Last, on the tranny, you can also try an adaptation to have it relearn its shifting. It is documented for how to do it toward the end of the hoot TSB; you need a VAG COM/VCDS to trigger it, then to run through a fairly precise driving cycle that takes about 30 minutes on a quiet mid speed road. I suspect in the real world a lot of dealers probably just trigger it and then drive it around some with a gentle foot; to do it "by the book" requires very long and gentle acceleration and then coast downs from 1 to 6 to 1 several times. It may help with shift quality issues, or it may result in very little difference unless you get deeper inside.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [If you want pics in foregoing links, ask AW where they went...used all to work] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


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Old 08-27-2014, 09:58 AM   #5
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Interesting post here from a Lincoln Navigator forum. It uses the same ZF 6HP26 transmission as our A8. Basically he did a full DIY fluid change for 70 bucks (Mercon SP is the same as LifeGuard 6 but a fraction of the price) and then went on to put new seals in the valve body.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1081568-06-navigator-6-speed-zf-automatic-transmission-fluid-change-procedures.html
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvs_dave View Post
Interesting post here from a Lincoln Navigator forum. It uses the same ZF 6HP26 transmission as our A8. Basically he did a full DIY fluid change for 70 bucks (Mercon SP is the same as LifeGuard 6 but a fraction of the price) and then went on to put new seals in the valve body.

06 Navigator 6 speed ZF Automatic Transmission Fluid Change Procedures - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Are you sure the Mercon SP is the same as LifeGuard 6? This cuts the cost of a fluid change in half.
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvs_dave View Post
Interesting post here from a Lincoln Navigator forum. It uses the same ZF 6HP26 transmission as our A8. Basically he did a full DIY fluid change for 70 bucks (Mercon SP is the same as LifeGuard 6 but a fraction of the price) and then went on to put new seals in the valve body.

06 Navigator 6 speed ZF Automatic Transmission Fluid Change Procedures - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Quite a few of us did it on our A8's. It is a bit more difficult since there is no filling plug and it is much lower car. Generally it included dropping the pan and replacing filter and the seal, but it could be just flashed with 5 liters of fresh ATF. Actually I would recommend exactly that and done by oil shop. It is easy and inexpensive so it can be done more often. Changing half of ATF every 30-50K miles is much better than recommended fill for life.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:26 PM   #8
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Default You can find this speculated & debated endlessly on the web...take a spin?

No one knows, and ZF doesn't confirm it, nor as I recall do shelf brand fluids like Mercon tie explicitly to the ZF spec. Frankly, you can go buy the Hyundai fluid too, and I bet for a Hyundai instead of Audi price. Hyundai's documentation on the 6HP is actually pretty good. But, would you seriously pour (pump) Hyundai fluid in your tranny? Virtually the identical question used to be debated on the preceding generation 5 speed on the D2 forum and w/ the C5 A6 4.2. But since the tranny often blew up at about 100K, who knows if the real or alternate fluid even mattered. Fortunately, the 6HP isn't doing that and the internal design issues on the C5 eventually got understood--weak clutch basket and some other things.

Regardless, only about 5 grand if it comes out wrong on the fluid guess, but probably 90% chance it will all be fine. Kind of Tranny Russian Roulette, with say a ten shooter to improve the odds to make it interesting. Take a spin... Mercon, Hyundai, whatever. For me, unless it has the ZF spec compliance documented, non starter. As I recall Jag and BMW both do.

Having now seen the inside of the tranny myself, the fluid change to start often makes sense. Pick the weapon of choice for that. But, don't be surprised if in the presence of shifting issues it's not a cure all. As I have posted before, there is a weak rubber part inside that has been documented in BMW's and that I personally found in mine at an earlier stage, and a change in internal metals (no more lead compliance) confirmed by a leading ZF distributor that makes longest term wear a further TBD. But against the long term wear issue, some fluid change definitely makes even more sense regardless, and the path I am continuing on as well.

For those interested, my prior post/reply on this, with the confirming picture: Separate and Combined Trans Fluid Systems?! - AudiWorld Forums
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [If you want pics in foregoing links, ask AW where they went...used all to work] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 08-27-2014 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panelhead View Post
Are you sure the Mercon SP is the same as LifeGuard 6? This cuts the cost of a fluid change in half.
Yep. Some guy on bimmerfest actually got Mercon SP and LF6 samples chemically analyzed by Blackstone Labs and aside from color they were found to be identical. Plenty of examples out there of the less precious A6 boys putting Mercon SP in with zero issues long term. Who'd a thunk, huh?
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"The result is that Mercon SP gave the same results as LifeGuard 6

From Blackstone:
This sample of Mercon SP looks very similar to the Shell Lifeguard 6 sample. Note that both oils
contain calcium, phosphorus, and boron as additives, but this sample of Mercon SP contains just a little bit
more of each element. The viscosity of each sample was near exactly the same. No moisture, insolubles, or
wear metals were found in either sample. Both the Mercon SP and the Shell Lifeguard 6 should work well for
you as automatic transmission fluid. The Mercon SP is red in color and the Shell Lifeguard 6 is gold, but the color should not affect how these oils perform.

This sample of Lifeguard 6 uses calcium, phosphorus, and boron as it's main additives. The
viscosity read within the normal range for ATF oil and no wear metals, moisture, or insolubles were found.
The comparison between this and the Mercon SP ATF's additive package is about as close as can be
expected, though not exact. The additive packages are similar enough that they could possibly be from
different runs of the same fluid type. The only real difference was that this oil was gold in color whereas the color should not affect how these oils perform."
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0 View Post
If I were to guess, like others I would think motor first (plugs, coil packs, maybe a vacuum leak, etc.). Next on the vibration issue and maybe even the shift sensation, I would think about the motor mounts. Many ignore the codes for mount solenoids, and a lot seem to have them now in their scans. Also, if you also lose the torque mount (up on the front passenger (U.S.) side of the motor), from my W12 experience anyway you can get some more perceptible vibration. That one does not have a sensor from my W12 experience, so you won't get a code like you might for the primary two mounts.

Last, I would say maybe deep inside the tranny. Having dove way, way in on that recently, could be in the solenoids in the valve body (Mechatronic) and/or its seal to the main tranny case. A ZF specialized shop can deal with that as piece parts with the tranny in car, rather than a full rebuild, but they need to know what they are doing. Those generally won't show as codes and I'm not aware of any definitive test to prove the issue is there or not ahead of time, but you will get increasing shift issues as a clue--maybe the hoot, maybe a flared gear miss, maybe a hard shift clunk, etc. As it worsens it may kick out to "SAFE" mode if you don't adapt your driving to try to avoid the issue--not the way one wants to drive a nice car anyway though! A fluid drain that does NOT show any obvious bits of clutch, metal, etc. is an indirect pointer it is not a classic worn out or broken physical tranny, but something more subtle like in these parts.

FWIW, even though the 6 speed was also used in related flavors in tons of Audis, I could find very little about it. It is a very reliable tranny as they go, nothing like the comparative long term lemon five speed from the D2 that seemed to (un) reliably and pretty seriously fail at right around 100K. I get the sense there is almost no DIY serious wrenching and deep diagnostics going on for the D3 or Audi's more generally like there was back for the D2. If you tediously search, you can find some overlapping relevant info (including forum posts) for the very similar ZF six speed (RWD) fitted in the V8 BMW's, and some manufacturer type info from Jag and even Ford (Europe) and Hyundai IIRC. Often the earlier info is about the same "hoot" as Audi found (and Audi's TSB is as good or better than the others), but some of the BMW threads in recent years get deeper into the Mechatronic area.

Last, on the tranny, you can also try an adaptation to have it relearn its shifting. It is documented for how to do it toward the end of the hoot TSB; you need a VAG COM/VCDS to trigger it, then to run through a fairly precise driving cycle that takes about 30 minutes on a quiet mid speed road. I suspect in the real world a lot of dealers probably just trigger it and then drive it around some with a gentle foot; to do it "by the book" requires very long and gentle acceleration and then coast downs from 1 to 6 to 1 several times. It may help with shift quality issues, or it may result in very little difference unless you get deeper inside.

Thanks to MP4 and all other input on this topic.

I'm disappointed no-one could give me an exact, precise diagnosis with the amount of information I provided over the internet


Good info to know on the fluid
As I recall that fluid cost me about $40 per quart and I needed about 7 quarts. (As I remember I got that at a discount as well)
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by winy68 View Post
As I recall that fluid cost me about $40 per quart and I needed about 7 quarts. (As I remember I got that at a discount as well)
If you use blue ATF (G055162A2) than it is right price. Not discounted.
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:41 PM   #12
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Default BTW, I'm starting to think blue = bunk, though I run it post-change still

Read the hoot TSB carefully and once more for W12's. I think maybe they actually modified it later, long after I first read it. So, in the case of the W12 it actually says, switch to...gold!

Doesn't that undercut essentially any argument there is some magic refinement or additive in blue? I'm now starting to think/realize it was perhaps just some colorant, like they used in Ate Typ 200 brake fluid, in either blue or gold, before the U.S. nailed Ate for selling the blue Typ 200 that is. No info of course on what's going on, but certainly since they are sending W12's back to gold, hard to rationalize much now in my mind.

Alternately, since the ZF LifeGuard 6+ was discontinued by ZF in favor of 8 (even though Audi still sells blue) and the S8 with the similar more powerful motor like the W12 and the same general tranny set up with the beefed up coolers and such uses green/8 as I recall, I'm wondering if blue is just an early version of 8 with a dye marker, before they standardized it on green/8. Doesn't explain the TSB though where Audi sent W12 owners back toward gold for the hoot.

I do still run blue. AudiUSAParts has it in the mid $30 range last I purchased it, and ECS has it for $33.64, a lot less than their green price. But, green can be bought as ZF 8, unlike blue that now only comes from Audi.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [If you want pics in foregoing links, ask AW where they went...used all to work] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


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Old 08-27-2014, 09:43 PM   #13
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They recommend changing to blue for 4.2 and changing to gold for W12. Isn't that a way to conceal that life fluid was nonsense? Changing type of oil requires 3 flashes so it would be thoroughly changed.
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Old 08-27-2014, 11:03 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by mishar View Post
They recommend changing to blue for 4.2 and changing to gold for W12. Isn't that a way to conceal that life fluid was nonsense? Changing type of oil requires 3 flashes so it would be thoroughly changed.
using the blue that's like a $1,000 flush!!!
man - i need to re-read the comments on the other fluid.

Do you think the new fluid (partial flush) has anything to do with my issue? It did seem to occur shortly after the flush, and is getting more noticeable over time. again she's not telling any tales - clean codes, etc.
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Old 08-27-2014, 11:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0 View Post
Read the hoot TSB carefully and once more for W12's. I think maybe they actually modified it later, long after I first read it. So, in the case of the W12 it actually says, switch to...gold!

Doesn't that undercut essentially any argument there is some magic refinement or additive in blue? I'm now starting to think/realize it was perhaps just some colorant, like they used in Ate Typ 200 brake fluid, in either blue or gold, before the U.S. nailed Ate for selling the blue Typ 200 that is. No info of course on what's going on, but certainly since they are sending W12's back to gold, hard to rationalize much now in my mind.

Alternately, since the ZF LifeGuard 6+ was discontinued by ZF in favor of 8 (even though Audi still sells blue) and the S8 with the similar more powerful motor like the W12 and the same general tranny set up with the beefed up coolers and such uses green/8 as I recall, I'm wondering if blue is just an early version of 8 with a dye marker, before they standardized it on green/8. Doesn't explain the TSB though where Audi sent W12 owners back toward gold for the hoot.

I do still run blue. AudiUSAParts has it in the mid $30 range last I purchased it, and ECS has it for $33.64, a lot less than their green price. But, green can be bought as ZF 8, unlike blue that now only comes from Audi.


I would think one of the fluids has a different viscosity which would account for it resolving the hoot issue. It never seemed like the proper resolution to the problem and that it would eventually cause tranny problems.

but I'm happy to hear there's not a common problem (that is of owners who had the hoot problem switch to blue only to find out down the road their tranny is screwed up.) seems mine is an isolated incident.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:20 AM   #16
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Customer: My transmission is making a hooting sound.

Audi: oh yes, we know that problem and can fix it. The transmission needs new "special blue" oil.

Customer: mmmmm....blue. How much?

Audi: $1,000+

Customer: $1,000????

Audi: It's blue, that's why it's so expensive.

Customer: mmmm....blue. Ok do it!

Audi: oh crap, we've run out of the blue stuff. Quick someone get some blue food coloring and add it to this gold stuff we have and put it in that A8 up on the ramp over there.

Customer: hey that $1,000+ was really well spent! The free coffee, cookies and wifi were awesome, and the dealer staff so friendly! No more hooting, it's shifting better, and I now have totally awesome super cool blue tranny fluid. Wait till I tell my forum buddies, they'll be soooo jealous!

Summary: all it needed was a regular fluid change, but Audi found a way to charge over a grand to do it.
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:17 AM   #17
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Do you think the new fluid (partial flush) has anything to do with my issue? It did seem to occur shortly after the flush, and is getting more noticeable over time. again she's not telling any tales - clean codes, etc.
In your first message you said that you are sure that he (your mechanic) used same fluid for the last flash. So it would be blue fluid @$40 per liter. Are you sure?
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:11 AM   #18
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Default I stand on my prior comments.

Do the flush--the 3x cycle--or even jut some periodic, serial maintenance drains. But after that, move on from that supposed fix.

As a long time board member, and maybe the one guy posting who has been inside the tranny beyond just a pan drop, I think the TSB has kind of run its course as some magic cure all for a variety of shift issues. That was written when the cars were young and the mileages low. As has been said by another poster or two, its probably the simple fluid changing to fresh lubricant with a fresh additive package that matters more now, IF that will improve the situation.

I have posted about a specific issue I found, and information I got from a respected ZF shop and found from BMW related places that seem to have gotten further into the tranny than in the Audi arena. The work and fix are ugly labor wise in my case, but the fix was also definitive. More generally, that things like valve bodies and solenoids--that control the shifts ultimately--wear and have issues over time is not news since when they first showed up with the D1. I happened to find--as have BMW types--that at least in some cases the o ring based seal upstream from that valve body also has issues.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [If you want pics in foregoing links, ask AW where they went...used all to work] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 08-28-2014, 09:24 AM   #19
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Default You might read my prior post again on the tranny

I'm not sure, but I don't think we are saying the same thing. I am saying:

1. Incidences of tranny issues on D3's are not high for the age of the vehicles, at least as far as postings. At a similar time in the D2 or C5 lifecycle-- the postings for the old 5 speed were fairly common and followed a pattern. But the D3 tranny is not a completely lifetime trouble free miracle box either.

2. Drains or flushes seem like a good idea, backed up by what the ZF specialist told me directly. Lead has been phased out as an internal coating on internal wear parts, so it can now be basically steel to steel at some important areas internally that have shift quality ramifications. Some of the parts rely on controlled fluid bleed through at the relevant interfaces, so wear gets things out of spec and can lead to issues.

3. Over time the solenoids and related moving parts and passages can both have issues and get gummed up.

4. The valve body itself is attached internally by a seal assembly that I found visibly distorted on mine, and some BMW owners have found literally crumbling apart which is at THE fluid passage from the main tranny unit into the valve body.

5. There is no definitive or magic test, VAG COM/VCDS or otherwise, that I believe will definitively resolve whether it is issues like various I mention or experienced myself and successfully resolved. Like many things that are not outright tranny failures, it comes down to educated guess work grounded in sets of experiences and cumulative learning.

FWIW, having changed four generations of ATF fluid in Audis from the 3 speed through the 6 speed (the later 3 speeds and the 5 speeds both being kind of lemon trannies longer term broadly speaking), I have never particularly noticed a fluid viscosity change in general. They are all what seems like a light oil. They all seem similar when collected into the recycle jugs and you jostle them too; apparent viscosity kind of similar to conventional brake fluids stored in quantity, though the make up of the two chemically varies of course.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [If you want pics in foregoing links, ask AW where they went...used all to work] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 08-28-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 08-30-2014, 03:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvs_dave View Post
Customer: My transmission is making a hooting sound.

Audi: oh yes, we know that problem and can fix it. The transmission needs new "special blue" oil.

Customer: mmmmm....blue. How much?

Audi: $1,000+

Customer: $1,000????

Audi: It's blue, that's why it's so expensive.

Customer: mmmm....blue. Ok do it!

Audi: oh crap, we've run out of the blue stuff. Quick someone get some blue food coloring and add it to this gold stuff we have and put it in that A8 up on the ramp over there.

Customer: hey that $1,000+ was really well spent! The free coffee, cookies and wifi were awesome, and the dealer staff so friendly! No more hooting, it's shifting better, and I now have totally awesome super cool blue tranny fluid. Wait till I tell my forum buddies, they'll be soooo jealous!

Summary: all it needed was a regular fluid change, but Audi found a way to charge over a grand to do it.

Ha yeah that's something the stealer would try to do.
Luckily it happened when my Certified Pre-owned warranty was still in effect (around 60,000 miles) so it didn't cost me a nickel, but the solution never really sat well with me. It just doesn't make much sense to me.

I seem to remember my service advisor showing me a bulletin that Audi published stated this was the fix for the hooting noise. (this was several years ago maybe even 6 or 7 years.)

I can verify that fluid change did silence the hooting, assuming that's all they did.

The 1,000 was my rough calculation for doing a thorough 3 times tranny fluid change. which I'm now paying for since my warranty is over.
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Old 08-30-2014, 03:18 AM
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