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Trunk Lock Replacement

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Old 05-21-2014, 02:39 PM
  #41  
mcs
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Originally Posted by crm297
I think there are a few different issues going on here.

Some people have had issues withe the latch not closing in cold weather, this seems to be temporarily fixed by lubricating the latch on the boot lid, or more permanently fixed by replacing the latch.

Then there is the issue of the broken/detached spring on the striker plate mechanism, again easily fixed.

I replaced the boot lid latch on mine and didn't solve the problem, and the spring was fine too.

My car is a UK spec car and does not have the automatic boot closure, it does however have soft close. The soft close appears to work by lifting the striker plate up slightly when the boot is opened, then pulling it back down again once the latch is re engaged. (This is what mine isn't doing, because the stinker plate is not lifting up it will only latch with a good slam.)

The striker plate is moved by a motor which is position on the right hand side of the car, behind the battery. This is connected to the striker plate mechanism by a cable/worm drive.

I started dismantling it all to see what I could find and after removing the 4 screws which hold the motor onto the worm drive I found that one of the metal gears which is driven by the motor had ground away the teeth of a plastic gear on the worm drive. (See photo below).

There are 2 micro switches on the assembly that determine the position of the drive and tell the motor which way to turn. The mechanism was not moving, the result of which was that the motor was running when I un-latched the boot but not when it was closed again.

It would appear that the mechanism or the worm drive is jammed somewhere. It looks then like my only option is to replace the whole thing. (The motor works fine but I doubt I will be able to get hold of the other parts without the motor)

Now we come to my problem. I cannot for the life of me remove the piece of plastic trim that covers the striker plate mechanism. (See other photo). It appears to be secured by 3 clips but I can see now way of removing these without destroying them completely. Has anyone removed this part before???

Thanks.

Chris.
I have removed this part as the cable came off the end of the motor. So I am left with a perfect motor and a dud cable.

Would you like the motor?
Old 05-21-2014, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mcs
I have removed this part as the cable came off the end of the motor. So I am left with a perfect motor and a dud cable.

Would you like the motor?
That is a very kind offer. Unfortunately it appears to be my cable that is the issue also. My motor appears to be working fine.

Thank you.
Old 05-21-2014, 03:13 PM
  #43  
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Keep a eye out then on ebay. I managed to buy one for about 30 pounds. I tried having the end of the cable replaced but it didn't work.

Mike
Old 05-28-2014, 05:51 PM
  #44  
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Default Just completed same repair/replacement

I had the same symptoms. The instructions were really good and clear. I ran into a trim cover that wasn't mentioned and partially hid one of the two 10mm nuts that bolts down the latch to the deck lid. Part 46 when you look at the parts diagram included in the thread. Easy/intuitive to pull off.

In my case, I separately had one of those annoying tiny rattles in the trunk lid somewhere near the tool area. Sure enough, when I pulled the big interior trim piece out, I found a little piece of broken plastic tab. No idea if it came from the latch or somewhere else, but it all went together fine and the rattle is now exorcised.

The latch part # I pulled off ended with an "A," while this was a rev. "D" part, so obviously it was modified over time. Mine had some cracking of the rubber around the latch itself, perhaps some or all of the issue.

I will need to cold weather test it in about 6 months, since my issue cropped up last winter and then I had it again a month ago when in Tahoe on a below freezing night.

Last, FWIW the T25 Torx screw on my interior emergency release handle was thoroughly frozen--a steel screw into an aluminum shaft. It took a ¼" drive to move it, and it predictably then sheared at the screw head. The release itself is riveted to the trunk deck, so no change out is practical, and I figured steel into aluminum was also a poor candidate for any drilling and easy out/extractor approach. So, 5 minutes later and a little quick set epoxy, it should now be on there "for life." For others, maybe an early shot of Liquid Wrench or something similar to the screw head area in the days leading up to the repair might help if your screw is frozen too.
Old 01-02-2015, 02:50 PM
  #45  
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Default All done

Just did this repair myself. Trunk latch went into "winter mode" and wouldn't latch. Managed to nurse it through the two previous winters with WD40, but this time enough was enough. Local audi dealer had one and wanted $140 for it. I laughed and told them the same part is $77 online. They sold it to me for $77, so I walked out happy.

No issues with doing the job thanks to this "how to". No siezed screws or broken clips so it took me about 20 mins.

Incidentally the failed latch that came out of my '04 was a rev. C. The new rev D version that went in had a few subtle casing differences but was largely the same so not sure exactly what the modifications are.

Anyway, all working now!
Old 01-11-2015, 10:12 AM
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Figured I'd try to help someone else who had this same problem. My trunk motor was disconnected b/c it was broken, then just recently, the trunk would not latch anymore.

*SYMPTOMS*
Manually close trunk, WOULD NOT LATCH SHUT. Trunk light on dash.

*FIXED FOR FREE*
Removed trunk latch from car.
Sprayed PB Blaster in it.
Worked the latch mechanism with a screw driver.
It finally started to lock again!
Old 01-11-2015, 10:51 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by rn3037
Figured I'd try to help someone else who had this same problem. My trunk motor was disconnected b/c it was broken, then just recently, the trunk would not latch anymore.

*SYMPTOMS*
Manually close trunk, WOULD NOT LATCH SHUT. Trunk light on dash.

*FIXED FOR FREE*
Removed trunk latch from car.
Sprayed PB Blaster in it.
Worked the latch mechanism with a screw driver.
It finally started to lock again!
You can nurse it back to life that way (as I did), but you're on borrowed time as it will fail again. They modified the part specifically to remedy this issue. The same part is used on virtually every VAG product.
Old 03-22-2015, 08:48 AM
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Default Trunk open light

I was able to replace my trunk latch and it works great now. The only thing is that my trunk open light on my dash is on. Anyone know how to reset this?

Thank you
Old 10-10-2016, 06:29 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 05SilverA8
I wrote up a quick fix for the trunk lock issue that causes a lot of grief and is relatively easy and inexpensive to fix.

<b>
<p>Instructions for replacing your upper trunk latch.</p></b>
<p>This resolves issues with having to slam trunk to get it to latch and having the trunk close and then re-open when you press the close button. The trunk latch was known to be defective and has been re-designed. This same part is used on the A4,A5,A6, Jetta and Passat.</p>
Time required less than 1 hour. <font size="3" face="Calibri"></font></font><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image002.jpg" border="0" alt="Tools" width="93" height="129"></a>
<p>Required Tools:<br> Torx 25 driver <br>Phillips screwdriver<br>Small flat blade driver <br>Plastic pry tool/putty knife or other instrument<br>10mm socket driver (not pictured)
<p>1) Order part number 4F5 827 505 D </span><a href="http://www.audipartsnationwide.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&amp;siteid=215503 &amp;chapter=&amp;sectionids=0,2822&amp;groupid=51 935&amp;subgroupid=3276&amp;make=2&amp;model=A8&am p;year=2005&amp;catalogid=2&amp;displayCatalogid=0 "><u><font color="#0000ff" size="3"><font color="#0000ff" size="3"><span lang="EN">Lock</u></font></font></span></a><font size="3"><span lang="EN"> from the online or from the dealer. Cost is about $45 online $68 from dealer</p></font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image004.jpg" border="0" alt="Part" width="226" height="155"></a>
2) If you go to the dealer pick up an extra metal clip that is used on the trunk trim that you will be pulling off. They get lost very easily.
<p>3) Pry off cover of emergency release to get to Torx 25 screw on emergency release handle</p></font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image006.jpg" border="0" alt="ERelease" width="263" height="154"></a>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>4) On the other side on the handle pull there is a small plastic door that when opened will reveal two Phillips screws that secure the
other handle lift to trunk. </p>
<p>Notice picture is taken from sitting inside the trunk.</p></font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image008.jpg" border="0" alt="Pull" width="284" height="177"></a>

</font></font></span><font size="3"><span lang="EN">
<p>5) Take out tool kit – 4 Phillips with plastic covers, and pull off black plastic cover over trunk lock</p></font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image010.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image010.jpg" border="0" alt="TrunkTool" height="186"></a>

</font></font></span><font size="3"><span lang="EN">
<p>6) Pry off back panel using plastic tool and pulling. Red indicated approximate position of clips</p></font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image012.jpg" border="0" alt="Lid"></a>

</font></font></span><font size="3"><span lang="EN">
<p>7) Disconnect trunk light wire harness. Place trunk liner out of way.</p></font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image014.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image014.jpg" border="0" alt="deck"></a>

</font></font></span><font size="3"><span lang="EN">
8) Disconnect connector to trunk release and remove 2 – 10mm nuts, note position of emergency release and lock cables.Remove lock cable first (cable coming from right bottom in picture). Unbolt unit and then slide emergency release cable out.
</font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image016.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image016.jpg" border="0" alt="motor"></a>

</font></font></span><font size="3"><span lang="EN">
9) Remove and replace motor assemble, and replace BOTH cables the same order as you took them out. Remember to replace flat plastic cover over release cables. Test emergency release and key by license plate before replacing panel.</font></span><font size="3" face="Calibri"><font size="3" face="Calibri"><span lang="">
<a href="http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/?action=view&amp;current=image018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/mbreitbart/Audi%20Trunk/image018.jpg" border="0" alt="NewPart"></a> </font></font></span><font size="3"><span lang="EN">
<p>10) Put back together and enjoy a working trunk lock!</p></font></span></font></font></font>
Hi! Looks like im having some issue with my trunk as well. it was fine in the summer but right now as we speak it isnt as cold yet. but anyways, it wont lock even if i close it manually or with the button. so basically it does not latch at all and wont lock.

it looks like just replacing the lock mechanism as mentioned here with that part number you posted should fix this issue? just want to make sure!

I have a 2004 A8L.

Please let me know! Thanks
Old 10-11-2016, 05:13 AM
  #50  
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Rather than leave the close switch connected and risk damage, unplug the wires from it then the liner can be removed and placed out of the way.


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