nismofreak1208

It has been an interesting year for my a8 and looks to be more fun in the future.

Replaced all 4 upper control arms as the driver side was done for and decided to do a full replacement with fresh arms and bushings.

Then just ordered 4 new tires as my kuhmos SPT finally gave in to separation and out of round after 23,000 miles thanks to hawaii roads.

Now my car is slow to crank as if it's not getting enough juice to crank over. Battery meter shows full charge but could I be looking at a bad battery soon?

Also, my air suspension is acting weird, when I select lift mode, it tries to go into lift and gets close then locks out with the symbol on the dash showing it's locked. Could my compressors be going bad?

Finally found the front anti rattle springs for the pads but is there an anti rattle spring for the rears as well?

Happy late new years and early spring break!

MP4.2+6.0

1. Get a new battery if current one is more than 3-4 years old and you are seeing any slow cranking or other watch areas. D3's are sensitive to battery flakiness and below std. electrical performance. Might not relate to your suspension worries, but won't hurt either.

2. Rear brakes may use a rattle plate between caliper piston and pad; depends some on pad supplier though. They definitely use them between pad ears and the caliper bracket area. They come with Audi rear pads, but not with many/most aftermarkets. They are stainless and tend to be long lasting. The front's use those clips too, but they don't come with the Audi front pads. Fronts of course have that quite visible clip that fits over the wheel side of the caliper too. You can buy the stuff from Audi as piece parts too, but they are pricy. Places like Rock Auto sell them from jobber sources. From having bought some, indistinguishable from what you get from Audi, but way cheaper.

nismofreak1208

Much thanks!

I purchased a new battery as it finally would not crank anymore. I am getting inconsistent starts with it as it died on me yesterday and started just fine this morning. But after a 20 mile drive and letting the car sit for half an hour after, it ran out of juice to crank the motor.

I'll look into the rear pads, I purchased a rock auto centric brand set of rattle clips to install.

Battery swap should be straightforward? I have a battery jump pack to keep the electrics alive while I swap. I read that only my battery meter will be incorrect until I recode it

MP4.2+6.0

You can't open the rear brakes except with VCDS--electric parking brake feature. Folks who have tried to get around it have often screwed them up. In general, you want VCDS anyway. See next refrain.

I would not put a battery charger or jump pack on it while changing myself. Not part of std. factory/manual procedure. All you lose is the clock, which takes 1-2 minutes to reset. Yes, the battery should be coded the car. Posted on many times before. If non-dealer, just add one to last digit. Again, takes VCDS to do. Unclear if car eventually re adapts anyway, but logically it probably should.

nismofreak1208

Thank you for the info, I was unsure about the non oem battery and it's effect on the vcds. Unfortunately due to the massive our ch *** for the car, I have to wait until next.month to purchase a ross tech cable. Have there been any issues of premature battery failure if it wasn't coded into the system?

Mister Bally

No.