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What's involved in a 90k service? (2005 Audi A8L)

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Old 11-21-2014, 06:15 AM
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Default What's involved in a 90k service? (2005 Audi A8L)

I need to take my car for an oil change and battery change so I'm wondering if I should just do the service as well or do without it and just do the 100k service. What would be the cost of doing a service like that too?

The following were done at the 75k service. The timing belt was the big one and it's already been done by the previous owner.

Headlights adjusted
Brakes checked
Engine/powertrain computer/module checked
Axles checked
Cooling system checked
Exhaust system checked
Exterior lights checked
Power steering fluid flushed/changed
Tire condition and pressure checked
Steering/suspension checked
Wipers/washers checked
Sunroof drain hoses serviced
Decarbon service completed
Battery serviced
Body lubricated
Sunroof checked
Wipers/washers serviced
Front brake pads and rotors replaced
Cabin air filter replaced/cleaned
Drive belt(s) replaced
Oil and filter changed
Timing belt replaced
Maintenance reminder reset
Old 11-21-2014, 06:38 AM
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http://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/a...-Year-2005.pdf
Old 11-21-2014, 07:15 AM
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Default I need to save this.

Couple items I have missed, like lubrication for the sunroof and wiper arms.
Get a vacuum pump and drain your power steering fluid reservoir. Refill, drive a couple hundred miles and do it again.
With a ten year old vehicle it is better to change now. Wait until the refills begin and it changes itself.
Old 11-21-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by theicon14

Headlights adjusted
Brakes checked
Engine/powertrain computer/module checked
Axles checked
Cooling system checked
Exhaust system checked
Exterior lights checked
Power steering fluid flushed/changed
Tire condition and pressure checked
Steering/suspension checked
Wipers/washers checked
Sunroof drain hoses serviced
Decarbon service completed
Battery serviced
Body lubricated
Sunroof checked
Wipers/washers serviced
Front brake pads and rotors replaced
Cabin air filter replaced/cleaned
Drive belt(s) replaced
Oil and filter changed
Timing belt replaced
Maintenance reminder reset
This is much of nothing, except oil change, front brakes, sunroof drains and timing belt. Too bad they didn't replace water pump and thermostat, but let's hope those will hold until next timing belt service.

It is not scheduled by Audi but I would recommend ATF flush, front and rear differential oil change. Just 5 liters of same ATF (most likely ZF Lifeguard6) and simple flush would do good to the gearbox. Same with differentials.

Flush the brake fluid. It should be done every two years.

VCDS scan must be performed. It would say if there are some problems so they can be addressed.

I would also recommend scrapping all those wiper checks and similar.

Last edited by mishar; 11-21-2014 at 07:38 AM.
Old 11-21-2014, 01:41 PM
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Default Timing belt was retroactively bumped back to 75K, even for older ones...

you can see it in Jakematic's posting of the 2005 schedule as an example. I know since it (retroactively) applied to my 2000 A6 4.2, that previously was on the 90K mile cycle. There's even older interval as I recall for something like my mid 90's C4, that was out at something like 105K.

Kind of sleazy how they did it too. First they cut extended AudiCare back from 75K miles in 2007 to 65K but no real price drop, then announced the retroactive belt interval switcheroo (would have been covered by AudiCare otherwise, as they realized belatedly with the 30K C5 RS6 interval). Now that belts are basically gone from current Audis, years later they have moved extended Audicare back to 75K and repriced it higher again. I knew that because I just happened to get extended Audicare when I bought my W12 in early 2007. I didn't have a belt. But for an extra $690 I got 12 more plugs, two more air filters, an HVAC filter, two more brake flushes, three oil filters, and 39 quarts of synthetic. Plus Fritz to do it. Same price as the A4 4 banger. Poor slob in bean counting who priced that one probably got the boot. Meantime for most everyone else, they slid in the timing belt interval whack and largely avoided covering it via extended AudiCare for those who bought it.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 11-21-2014 at 01:44 PM.
Old 11-22-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Panelhead
C
Get a vacuum pump and drain your power steering fluid reservoir. Refill, drive a couple hundred miles and do it again.
With a ten year old vehicle it is better to change now. Wait until the refills begin and it changes itself.
That's probably a good call...is the power steering the Pentosin stuff that they used to use back on the '03s (which is what I did for my old allroad)? Available only at the dealer (if I recall), and expensive as hell. What's the capacity of the reservoir? A quart (liter) of it should be more than sufficient I'd guess?

I'm at 85K on my original timing belt, was planning to push it to 90-100K or so.
Old 11-22-2014, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind
That's probably a good call...is the power steering the Pentosin stuff that they used to use back on the '03s (which is what I did for my old allroad)? Available only at the dealer (if I recall), and expensive as hell. What's the capacity of the reservoir? A quart (liter) of it should be more than sufficient I'd guess?

I'm at 85K on my original timing belt, was planning to push it to 90-100K or so.
Pentosin mineral oil is available at many import car part stores as well as by mail. usually 25-40% without the VW/Audi logo on the can. The reservoir on the D3's hold less than a 1/2 Liter. On my old '87 Audi, it held at least a liter. Then you have the steering rack, pump and on the older vehicles the accumulator that also holds fluid. The system capacity is probably 2L or more.

As for the timing belt, see my posts regarding mileage before replacement. Use the advanced search feature and look for threads started by my id as well as threads I've posted in. Quite a fun read.
Old 03-06-2015, 12:34 AM
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Hello guys, I don't know where to post this. My 05 A8L W12 AC is blowing hot air. It wasn't like this until we had to work on the from end. We inadvertently let out all the freon. Story short, tried to replace the freon, but will not allow all the freon to get in the system. Only took about 400grams. It was blowing cold. Then suddenly started blowing hot. Please help.

Also, my front shock stayed up high. What is the problem here. The car has been parked for a while though and I have not even started driving it yet. Thanks for all helps
Old 03-06-2015, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Omoige
Hello guys, I don't know where to post this. My 05 A8L W12 AC is blowing hot air. It wasn't like this until we had to work on the from end. We inadvertently let out all the freon. Story short, tried to replace the freon, but will not allow all the freon to get in the system. Only took about 400grams. It was blowing cold. Then suddenly started blowing hot. Please help.

Also, my front shock stayed up high. What is the problem here. The car has been parked for a while though and I have not even started driving it yet. Thanks for all helps
You read the first/top post on the index page of the D3 thread and do what it suggests. ( the one that says: New posters to this forum: PLEASE READ THIS ). Some of the things suggested include buying the servce manual for the vehicle as well as the Ross Tech diagnostic interface. Those items will help you find your answers.

Also best to start a new thread(s) if searching the forum does not help after you have the service manual and diagnostic interface.

You will also be using some "standard automotive (A/C and electrical system) troubleshooting techniques" as referenced in the above post. In this case, with a completely discharged system the only way to engage the compressor which will allow refrigerant to get pumped into the system you need to either 1: trick the low refrigerant cutoff circuit by jumping the pressure switch (here you use the service manual and wiring diagram to figure out which wires to jump). Another alternate is to charge the A/C discharge line with liquid refrigerant (you should be trained to do this as it is a dangerous procedure, doing so by following a Youtube video can hurt or kill you with the wrong equipment and/or procedure) which will quickly cause the pressure switch mentioned above to engage the compressor allowing you to fill the system back through the preferred (suction) line port.

Last edited by Mister Bally; 03-06-2015 at 03:09 PM.
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