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2011 A8L front arm bushing noise

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Old 02-13-2017, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by yuvalw123
made an appointment with dealer for next month. they offer for 150$, 300 point inspection for the car (end of warranty inspection) , and they promise if they find some thing wrong, they will fix. at the same time will do the sway bar links. i just did the rear and front brake pads last week ( the brake pad light was on). did not go to dealer , my total cost for pads and work was 570$
and the pads where original AUDI.
Sounds reasonable and maybe essentially their CPO inspection and checklist. See: https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...-Checklist.pdf Per the Audi web site where I grabbed that link, they market CPO as including "Rigorous 300+ point dealer inspection." Sounds like a solid price on brake work too; pad sets are probably at least half of that, plus a wear sensor if it had triggered from the front, the legit incremental time for the VCDS or shop equivalent work to do the rears. Much more reasonable than a lot of the $$ numbers that get posted, particularly dealer brake work.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-13-2017 at 07:06 PM.
Old 02-15-2017, 02:59 PM
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Out of curiosity, has anyone replaced the arms/bushings themselves? If so, do you have to drop the shock assembly like in the D3 body? Im pretty sure i hear my upper control arms cracking every time i hit a small ditch or getting into my driveway and sometimes its very loud, as if its a metal on metal friction/bang. End links were replaced about 4k miles ago
Old 02-15-2017, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Nermb
Out of curiosity, has anyone replaced the arms/bushings themselves? If so, do you have to drop the shock assembly like in the D3 body? Im pretty sure i hear my upper control arms cracking every time i hit a small ditch or getting into my driveway and sometimes its very loud, as if its a metal on metal friction/bang. End links were replaced about 4k miles ago
I don't know, but FWIW from having done it you just have to loosen and lower the shock assembly slightly on a D3, not remove entirely. Comes up because of interference removing the inner arm bushing retaining bolts enough to get arms out of bracket.
Old 02-15-2017, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
I don't know, but FWIW from having done it you just have to loosen and lower the shock assembly slightly on a D3, not remove entirely. Comes up because of interference removing the inner arm bushing retaining bolts enough to get arms out of bracket.
ive read your whole post on it thats why i asked. Were you getting any noises from your UCAs before you replaced them? I'm pretty sure thats what it is now unless its my lower. Actually looking to take my tire off soon and get a better look at them that way
Old 02-15-2017, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Nermb
ive read your whole post on it thats why i asked. Were you getting any noises from your UCAs before you replaced them? I'm pretty sure thats what it is now unless its my lower. Actually looking to take my tire off soon and get a better look at them that way
On D3, I didn't really have noise. But I had slight vibration on braking--which was not the usual rotors or balance or anything like that. Once I pulled pinch bolt on the ball joint end and moved them around freely, that's when I could see the cracking had progressed and I ordered up parts. Replacement cured the braking vibration 100%. On prior Audi's when arm bushings get more worn, I have also seen the front tire inside edges start to wear away in a pretty obvious way.

Other place creaking can occur is the main sway bar bushing--where it bolts up to subframe On D3's I would say that is more common that lower arms. Neither are that common--esp. lower arms--but there have been reports over the years on the sway bar main bushings. D3's required whole bar to be replaced, but on D4 I think it is the more typical replaceable bushing rubber block.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-15-2017 at 03:38 PM.
Old 02-17-2017, 04:39 AM
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mine made a very loud and noticeable crunch when going over speed bumps and even larger dips in the road, sway bar links etc. replaced. sounded like the front end was going to come off.
Old 02-17-2017, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by frybear
mine made a very loud and noticeable crunch when going over speed bumps and even larger dips in the road, sway bar links etc. replaced. sounded like the front end was going to come off.
Thats the same noise mine makes. I got a code once i did a vcds scan and i got a code for a engine mount mechanical failure. Looked at my right mount from under the hood and it looks like theres oil on top of it. Not sure if thats the issue but in that case itll be a pretty expensive fix lol
Old 02-17-2017, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Nermb
Thats the same noise mine makes. I got a code once i did a vcds scan and i got a code for a engine mount mechanical failure. Looked at my right mount from under the hood and it looks like theres oil on top of it. Not sure if thats the issue but in that case itll be a pretty expensive fix lol
Yes, oil around or below a motor mount means its blown--it it isn't coming down a hose or off a valve cover or something like that. Blown motor mount oil I have encountered is typically quite dark; leaves a brown stain on parts it runs on too.

Mounts are several hundred $. Labor depends on which motor and how hard to get at. If a main mount, motor is often lifted slightly (in place) to get part out and back in. Common enough procedure that indies who work on Euro vehicles should be able to handle.
Old 02-17-2017, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Yes, oil around or below a motor mount means its blown--it it isn't coming down a hose or off a valve cover or something like that. Blown motor mount oil I have encountered is typically quite dark; leaves a brown stain on parts it runs on too.

Mounts are several hundred $. Labor depends on which motor and how hard to get at. If a main mount, motor is often lifted slightly (in place) to get part out and back in. Common enough procedure that indies who work on Euro vehicles should be able to handle.
i was even thinking about doing it myself. Just not sure if to replace both or just the defective one. Many say to change just the defective one and others say to replace both. Sucks as im only 3k out of warranty.
Old 02-17-2017, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Nermb
i was even thinking about doing it myself. Just not sure if to replace both or just the defective one. Many say to change just the defective onedi and others say to replace both. Sucks as im only 3k out of warranty.
First step for me would be to inspect all carefully, including the separate front torque mount that the motor probably has too--and that takes a lot of ...torque. Economy of labor also depends on how you lift motor--from above that probably gets both sides free, or below that likely focuses on the affected side. My DIY's are typically from below. Dealer did my D3 W12 torque mount near end of CPO warranty.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-17-2017 at 07:17 AM.


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