2011 A8L front arm bushing noise
#11
AudiWorld Super User
made an appointment with dealer for next month. they offer for 150$, 300 point inspection for the car (end of warranty inspection) , and they promise if they find some thing wrong, they will fix. at the same time will do the sway bar links. i just did the rear and front brake pads last week ( the brake pad light was on). did not go to dealer , my total cost for pads and work was 570$
and the pads where original AUDI.
and the pads where original AUDI.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-13-2017 at 07:06 PM.
#12
Out of curiosity, has anyone replaced the arms/bushings themselves? If so, do you have to drop the shock assembly like in the D3 body? Im pretty sure i hear my upper control arms cracking every time i hit a small ditch or getting into my driveway and sometimes its very loud, as if its a metal on metal friction/bang. End links were replaced about 4k miles ago
#13
AudiWorld Super User
Out of curiosity, has anyone replaced the arms/bushings themselves? If so, do you have to drop the shock assembly like in the D3 body? Im pretty sure i hear my upper control arms cracking every time i hit a small ditch or getting into my driveway and sometimes its very loud, as if its a metal on metal friction/bang. End links were replaced about 4k miles ago
#14
ive read your whole post on it thats why i asked. Were you getting any noises from your UCAs before you replaced them? I'm pretty sure thats what it is now unless its my lower. Actually looking to take my tire off soon and get a better look at them that way
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Other place creaking can occur is the main sway bar bushing--where it bolts up to subframe On D3's I would say that is more common that lower arms. Neither are that common--esp. lower arms--but there have been reports over the years on the sway bar main bushings. D3's required whole bar to be replaced, but on D4 I think it is the more typical replaceable bushing rubber block.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-15-2017 at 03:38 PM.
#16
mine made a very loud and noticeable crunch when going over speed bumps and even larger dips in the road, sway bar links etc. replaced. sounded like the front end was going to come off.
#17
Thats the same noise mine makes. I got a code once i did a vcds scan and i got a code for a engine mount mechanical failure. Looked at my right mount from under the hood and it looks like theres oil on top of it. Not sure if thats the issue but in that case itll be a pretty expensive fix lol
#18
AudiWorld Super User
Thats the same noise mine makes. I got a code once i did a vcds scan and i got a code for a engine mount mechanical failure. Looked at my right mount from under the hood and it looks like theres oil on top of it. Not sure if thats the issue but in that case itll be a pretty expensive fix lol
Mounts are several hundred $. Labor depends on which motor and how hard to get at. If a main mount, motor is often lifted slightly (in place) to get part out and back in. Common enough procedure that indies who work on Euro vehicles should be able to handle.
#19
Yes, oil around or below a motor mount means its blown--it it isn't coming down a hose or off a valve cover or something like that. Blown motor mount oil I have encountered is typically quite dark; leaves a brown stain on parts it runs on too.
Mounts are several hundred $. Labor depends on which motor and how hard to get at. If a main mount, motor is often lifted slightly (in place) to get part out and back in. Common enough procedure that indies who work on Euro vehicles should be able to handle.
Mounts are several hundred $. Labor depends on which motor and how hard to get at. If a main mount, motor is often lifted slightly (in place) to get part out and back in. Common enough procedure that indies who work on Euro vehicles should be able to handle.
#20
AudiWorld Super User
First step for me would be to inspect all carefully, including the separate front torque mount that the motor probably has too--and that takes a lot of ...torque. Economy of labor also depends on how you lift motor--from above that probably gets both sides free, or below that likely focuses on the affected side. My DIY's are typically from below. Dealer did my D3 W12 torque mount near end of CPO warranty.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-17-2017 at 07:17 AM.