2011 Audi A8L Oil Change
#11
There is a drain plug option as well but using a vacuum pump is much quicker and as far as I could tell you still got enough oil out.
I posted a basic procedure for the 4.2 FSI a while back, its here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...80100-2878331/
I posted a basic procedure for the 4.2 FSI a while back, its here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...80100-2878331/
#12
AudiWorld Super User
Sorry, I'll keep on my old school theme...
How exactly after he pumps the oil out is he going to change the filter? Or, he isn't? And if you have dealt with a cartridge filter in a non shop environment, FWIW the whole drain part will seem much cleaner as general mess and oily hands go.
If he is going to change it, where is the filter? Hmmm/hint.
Oh, also running into why the pump idea is also problematic here. So, how much to put in? Hard to know if you don't know how much is still left... A cup, a pint, a quart? More? Or, rely on the screen only?...w/ the dirty hands cycling the ignition and pushing buttons... Also need to be in that one quart zone and may not be quick response on sensor either.
How exactly after he pumps the oil out is he going to change the filter? Or, he isn't? And if you have dealt with a cartridge filter in a non shop environment, FWIW the whole drain part will seem much cleaner as general mess and oily hands go.
If he is going to change it, where is the filter? Hmmm/hint.
Oh, also running into why the pump idea is also problematic here. So, how much to put in? Hard to know if you don't know how much is still left... A cup, a pint, a quart? More? Or, rely on the screen only?...w/ the dirty hands cycling the ignition and pushing buttons... Also need to be in that one quart zone and may not be quick response on sensor either.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 06-06-2016 at 11:40 AM.
#13
AudiWorld Member
Draining and checking the engine at the same time is absolutely a better way as described by MP4.2+6.0.
The oil filter is on top on the 4.2FSI and very easy to get to. Just loosen and let air in before you start and let it drain as you pump out the oil. I managed to change the filter with minimal mess. Done it twice now and every 15,000km.
I think the manual says 7.7ltr and I assume max to min is around 1ltr , maybe a bit more.
Maybe start with 6.5 ltr and add in portions of 0.5 ltr while checking the readings, if you keep a charger on you can keep the system alive while filling up.
Make sure its not overfilled and if you are unsure then pump out some until it goes under max on the screen or get a dipstick as someone else did here if I remember correctly
The oil filter is on top on the 4.2FSI and very easy to get to. Just loosen and let air in before you start and let it drain as you pump out the oil. I managed to change the filter with minimal mess. Done it twice now and every 15,000km.
I think the manual says 7.7ltr and I assume max to min is around 1ltr , maybe a bit more.
Maybe start with 6.5 ltr and add in portions of 0.5 ltr while checking the readings, if you keep a charger on you can keep the system alive while filling up.
Make sure its not overfilled and if you are unsure then pump out some until it goes under max on the screen or get a dipstick as someone else did here if I remember correctly
#15
#16
AudiWorld Junior Member
First Oil change on my 2011 A8L was when I realized how much different an Audi was, then the rest of the world.
My local wheel works offers the full synthetic, low viscosity OEM oil and filter for $60 installed and that is by far the easiest solution.
I have managed to avoid wrenching on cars since my last old muscle car (69 eliminator) 20 years ago.
- No dipstick- WTF?,
- very hard access to the parts you needed to change.
- Audi dealership charges an arm and a leg for the oil change
My local wheel works offers the full synthetic, low viscosity OEM oil and filter for $60 installed and that is by far the easiest solution.
I have managed to avoid wrenching on cars since my last old muscle car (69 eliminator) 20 years ago.
#17
First Oil change on my 2011 A8L was when I realized how much different an Audi was, then the rest of the world.
My local wheel works offers the full synthetic, low viscosity OEM oil and filter for $60 installed and that is by far the easiest solution.
I have managed to avoid wrenching on cars since my last old muscle car (69 eliminator) 20 years ago.
- No dipstick- WTF?,
- very hard access to the parts you needed to change.
- Audi dealership charges an arm and a leg for the oil change
My local wheel works offers the full synthetic, low viscosity OEM oil and filter for $60 installed and that is by far the easiest solution.
I have managed to avoid wrenching on cars since my last old muscle car (69 eliminator) 20 years ago.
2. Not sure which motor you have but mostly just pull off engine cover to get at everything. Oil can be drained traditionally from underneath car or use oil evac system and go down dipstick tube. My TDI holds 6.8qts.of synthetic.
You can get the oil changed anywhere but you will probably want to go in with your own filter of call and make sure they have one on hand. (likely they won't) Also most of those 60 buck deals are good for up to 5 qts. The oil of proper spec for these motors is going to be rather specific. VW/Audi 503/507, not just any synthetic.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Big D
A4 (B6 Platform) Discussion
19
01-29-2003 09:26 AM