Anticipated maintenance cost for 4.2 vs. 3.0t vs. 4.0T?
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Anticipated maintenance cost for 4.2 vs. 3.0t vs. 4.0T?
Many of you seem quite well-heeled (congratulations!), but I am a mere plebe who loves driving a nice car.
D4s have depreciated sufficiently that they're on my radar. From what I've seen on the forum, they seem fairly dependable as well.
Would anyone care to hazard a guess what maintenance cost per year might be for a daily driver (say, 12k/year)? Any major differences between 4.2, 3.0T and 4.0T models?
One thing I've noticed is the 4.0Ts seem to need spark plugs every 35k, vs. 55k for the 3.0T.
Many thanks in advance!
Marc in CT
D4s have depreciated sufficiently that they're on my radar. From what I've seen on the forum, they seem fairly dependable as well.
Would anyone care to hazard a guess what maintenance cost per year might be for a daily driver (say, 12k/year)? Any major differences between 4.2, 3.0T and 4.0T models?
One thing I've noticed is the 4.0Ts seem to need spark plugs every 35k, vs. 55k for the 3.0T.
Many thanks in advance!
Marc in CT
#2
AudiWorld Super User
I couldn't give you #'s. You could call dealer and/or and indy shop advertising Audi service and ask each one for approx. major service cost.
Service interval on the 4.0T is 40K vs. 60K on 4.2 (normally aspirated so less plug wear, and less air pull through filter)) or 3.0T. Yes, it is shortened by 5K for first interval, but then follows the 40/60K pattern. Obviously 2 of them have a couple more plugs; rest of filters essentially the same. 3.0T needs the drive pulley belt (supercharger related) every 60K. Thus it is mostly the interval coming up more often on the 4.0T. Then also figure the heavier and faster ones will use brakes somewhat more often.
I would not assume gas use is much different, but those with 3.0T's might comment. 4.2 was known as somewhat thirsty pre-8 speed, but so is a supercharged motor. 8 speed helps in either case. Look at EPA ratings if nothing else.
Maybe bigger one at margin than any you flagged--check ins. rates w/ your broker. 3.0T might fit std. category, while the V8 ones are probably on the "performance vehicle" list. That may be as much or more that the other items above in trying to distinguish.
Last, you didn't mention TDI. Not a lot out there. Prices sagged obviously with VW stupidity cloud of them all. Shouldn't have the ins. surcharge. But I think of it as a higher performance everyday choice at margin than 3.0T given the usable torque. And it's a whole different league of fuel economy than the other motor choices.
Service interval on the 4.0T is 40K vs. 60K on 4.2 (normally aspirated so less plug wear, and less air pull through filter)) or 3.0T. Yes, it is shortened by 5K for first interval, but then follows the 40/60K pattern. Obviously 2 of them have a couple more plugs; rest of filters essentially the same. 3.0T needs the drive pulley belt (supercharger related) every 60K. Thus it is mostly the interval coming up more often on the 4.0T. Then also figure the heavier and faster ones will use brakes somewhat more often.
I would not assume gas use is much different, but those with 3.0T's might comment. 4.2 was known as somewhat thirsty pre-8 speed, but so is a supercharged motor. 8 speed helps in either case. Look at EPA ratings if nothing else.
Maybe bigger one at margin than any you flagged--check ins. rates w/ your broker. 3.0T might fit std. category, while the V8 ones are probably on the "performance vehicle" list. That may be as much or more that the other items above in trying to distinguish.
Last, you didn't mention TDI. Not a lot out there. Prices sagged obviously with VW stupidity cloud of them all. Shouldn't have the ins. surcharge. But I think of it as a higher performance everyday choice at margin than 3.0T given the usable torque. And it's a whole different league of fuel economy than the other motor choices.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-25-2016 at 09:11 AM.
#3
AudiWorld Super User
A TDI is a worthy consideration, to be sure. Lovely motor in the A6 loaner I had, I preferred it to the 3.0t I'd driven. I had a 4.2 for 2 years and 23k miles, and adding up all maintenance and repairs, $1900 total. 3 oil changes and the 55,000 mile service done at the dealer, and sway bar links and a camshaft position sensor, for a combined labor on my part of about an hour. Your experience may vary, however.
#4
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
#5
So far so good with my 3.0t, but then again my car just turned 11K. As far as mpg, I routinely get 29 highway primarily using the adaptive cruise set at between 75 and 80. I get very low 20's around town. Beats my previous X5 4.8 which averaged 14 on a good day.
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#8
The auto insurance is almost 3x the cost of my previous car (2010 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost), due to the potential repair costs of the aluminum body.
In the past 10k miles (I now have 56k), I've needed new cam position sensors, a new cat, and a new heater core control valve (all covered under CPO warranty). My guess is that the cam position sensors caused mixture conditions that were detrimental to the cat - but the service manager said that was impossible. I don't recall what the costs were, but I'm sure the cat wasn't cheap - and they had to wait a couple of weeks for one to become available (though, the L TDI loaner I had in the mean time was quite nice .
Other than that, I've done the 55k service (except for flushing the brake fluid and cleaning the throttle body) and a rear brake job. Disregarding the cost of the Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable ($350 - required to put the rear calipers into the service position) and an oil extractor (~$100 from Harbor Freight), the parts for the service and brakes (from Meadowlands Audi audionlineparts.com - a board sponsor) came to about $700.
The work was pretty simple if you're used to doing maintenance on cars, provided you've got the various inverted hex, torx, and triple square (potentially needed for rear caliper carrier) sockets required to turn some of the fasteners.
BTW: Dealer quoted $1300 for the 55k service and $1500 for the rear brakes.
This is my fifth Audi. The parts have always come at a premium. But, it's been my experience for about 20 years now: if you keep up with scheduled maintenance - and fix the cause of the malfunction indicator (engine light) coming on with haste - they're very reliable.
Something else to bear in mind if you purchase: Don't believe Audi's claim that the transmission fluid is good for a lifetime if you put high miles on the car. Change it (and the filter) every 70-100k, and check the CV joint boots with every oil change. They went pretty often on my old A6's, and changing them is much cheaper than replacing a half shaft
In the past 10k miles (I now have 56k), I've needed new cam position sensors, a new cat, and a new heater core control valve (all covered under CPO warranty). My guess is that the cam position sensors caused mixture conditions that were detrimental to the cat - but the service manager said that was impossible. I don't recall what the costs were, but I'm sure the cat wasn't cheap - and they had to wait a couple of weeks for one to become available (though, the L TDI loaner I had in the mean time was quite nice .
Other than that, I've done the 55k service (except for flushing the brake fluid and cleaning the throttle body) and a rear brake job. Disregarding the cost of the Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable ($350 - required to put the rear calipers into the service position) and an oil extractor (~$100 from Harbor Freight), the parts for the service and brakes (from Meadowlands Audi audionlineparts.com - a board sponsor) came to about $700.
The work was pretty simple if you're used to doing maintenance on cars, provided you've got the various inverted hex, torx, and triple square (potentially needed for rear caliper carrier) sockets required to turn some of the fasteners.
BTW: Dealer quoted $1300 for the 55k service and $1500 for the rear brakes.
This is my fifth Audi. The parts have always come at a premium. But, it's been my experience for about 20 years now: if you keep up with scheduled maintenance - and fix the cause of the malfunction indicator (engine light) coming on with haste - they're very reliable.
Something else to bear in mind if you purchase: Don't believe Audi's claim that the transmission fluid is good for a lifetime if you put high miles on the car. Change it (and the filter) every 70-100k, and check the CV joint boots with every oil change. They went pretty often on my old A6's, and changing them is much cheaper than replacing a half shaft