A6 Quattro Transmission issue
#1
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A6 Quattro Transmission issue
I'll start by saying this is too good of a car to just throw away and be at the mercy of the crusher. The car in question is a 1996 A6 2.8L Quattro. Most of the options work and this car is CLEAN! Problem is the transmission...
When selecting (D) The car seems to make a turbine sound and does not move... well, it slowly creeps. If you rev it to about 4000rpm it slamms into 2nd gear, I have not done this but the previous owner said it happened once and it was parked for a year. However if you start in (1) and accelerate to about 5mph you can manually shift to (D) and all the gears seem to work fine until you come to a stop. Then you have to select (1) and do the same as previously stated...
Took the car to a certified Audi Tech and had tested with the VAG.
Only code that came up was the brake switch which from what I've read, only means the brake pedal was not depressed before the test, I may be wrong.
Any thoughts or input will be greatly appreciated!
When selecting (D) The car seems to make a turbine sound and does not move... well, it slowly creeps. If you rev it to about 4000rpm it slamms into 2nd gear, I have not done this but the previous owner said it happened once and it was parked for a year. However if you start in (1) and accelerate to about 5mph you can manually shift to (D) and all the gears seem to work fine until you come to a stop. Then you have to select (1) and do the same as previously stated...
Took the car to a certified Audi Tech and had tested with the VAG.
Only code that came up was the brake switch which from what I've read, only means the brake pedal was not depressed before the test, I may be wrong.
Any thoughts or input will be greatly appreciated!
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Also the trans fluid was changed correctly following Audi instruction. As was the filter. The tech said it smelt bad but not as bad as most, and the magnet was somewhat free of debris.
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Valvoline high mileage I believe. The label on the bottle showed that it met the requirements for audi/vw. The trans is a 4hp18fla is what I was told, if that helps...
#6
I would re-check the fluid level..sounds like it is too low. There is a a complicated fill procedure..but the simple solution is to get under the car (all the usual disclaimers about safety and risk inserted here)
With the transmission warm and engine running..remove the 22mm fill plug on the side of the transmission pan..the ATF level should slightly flow out..if not add some ATF. I had a similar problem after an ATF service on an A6...I was sure the level was fine but is was not. The transmission will rattle too when the ATF is low.
Our Audi transmissions are very fussy about ATF levels. It is worth checking.
The MaxLife ATF from Valvoline is just fine.
With the transmission warm and engine running..remove the 22mm fill plug on the side of the transmission pan..the ATF level should slightly flow out..if not add some ATF. I had a similar problem after an ATF service on an A6...I was sure the level was fine but is was not. The transmission will rattle too when the ATF is low.
Our Audi transmissions are very fussy about ATF levels. It is worth checking.
The MaxLife ATF from Valvoline is just fine.
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Another thought... I have not driven this car when the transmission was working properly so I cannot tell if there is a torque converter lockup issue. It will shift 1,2,3,4 but there is no rpm drop after 4 like other vehicles I have driven. Rpm stays up around 2500-3000 at hwy speeds. Could a torque converter issue cause the not engaging in (D,3,2)?
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After some more looking around the good ol interweb, it seems possible that the malfunction is keeping fluid from getting to certain parts of the transmission. For example, while going through the gears until getting to (1) all it does is make a whirring sound. Could it be that the solenoids or seals are letting fluid through or even preventing certain sections from building the pressure required to properly engage... Which makes me think that the fluid is either staying in a section or not going to a section in turn giving a false fill level situation. I'd love to take it in to a pro but myself being the only mechanic that I trust touching any of my vehicles and of course the common false diagnosis and "just buy a new one" mentality that most people have these days. I know this is something I can take on with a little bit of guidance. I've always been a ford, chevy, dodge guy but this new appreciation for German engineering and other European influenced cars makes me wonder why I was so biased in the first place