Rogviler

Might as well do a small update while I'm here (igor, go to the bottom of the last page for my reply to you)...

The AC switch I was using as a fault code trigger was a good idea and would have worked great if the LED didn't burn out immediately. Must not have been rated for getting 12v directly. While trying to dig it out I lost the tiny ball inside the switch, so until I can get a new stealthy switch I found a Dorman one that fits perfectly:



For the light, I'm just going to add an LED indicator light to my gauge panel (the one where the stereo used to be). Should be here in a couple days.

Side project, a strut tower brace:



It cost nothing, since I made it from old bunk bed pieces, so it's largely an experiment and if it sucks, no big deal (though it probably won't stay blue). As you can see I shifted it forward a bit and was able to get right between the brake and power steering reservoirs:



So we'll see how that works. Might get some more bracing. I know they're normally centered on the strut towers, but most cars also don't have the entire weight of the engine in front of the wheels... Plus the firewall is pretty close to the struts as well, so I'm going to see if it makes a difference having the brace shifted toward the end that's going to be floppier. Probably doesn't matter either way, since we're talking about maybe an inch of difference, but I'm all about asking questions and finding answers.

Anyway, it runs, but badly needs to get a full tank of premium and a hard drive, which will most likely have to wait.

-Rog

igor.p0984@gmail.com

thanx for the help.
if i wana keep fron facing trotle body where would i get a longer trottle cable?
thanx for the help i dint know u had soo much on here gona read all ur posts. thanx
hey what is that litttle fuel filter looking thing that goes on the turbo ecu?

Rogviler

The Ur-Q cable is the easiest, part #857 721 555. You could also very easily use the 5000 cable to extend the 4000 one using some cable crimps (spliced in a spot that won't bind on anything). Lots of other options, such as the solid linkage from the auto 5000, or of course using the 4000 intake and routing the intake tubes around the back of the engine.

It's just a moisture trap. I haven't seen much in it, although I have seen a few black flecks so I think it's a good place to see if there might be anything clogging that tube.

-Rog

AudiCoupeGT1986

Hey Rog,

any update on the 10VT project?

Rogviler

I started tinkering with it again, got it running but even less well than when I took the video a few posts back. It acts like there's a huge vacuum leak, but I can find none after multiple attempts. The check engine light is on and glows brighter at higher RPMs, so I think it's pulling the timing all the way back. Can't get it to give any codes, which I've seen other people having the same problem with the MC1...

I don't think it's a problem with the swap, so I stand by all the info here. It's possible that it's whatever sent the donor car to the junkyard (something about an "electrical problem"), though I went over the harness and it shouldn't have any issues.

But I'm moving to a place with less parking space, so I'm going to have to mothball it for now. I keep going back and forth between storing it for awhile and possibly coming back to an even bigger mess as it sits and festers, or just stripping it and using some of the parts, selling others. I don't think I'll do another 10vt again.

It's just hard to be motivated by an engine swap that didn't fire up the first time. And sure, maybe they don't always do that, but even with all the things I've gone through and it still barely runs it's just like, screw that. Thanks for nothing, George Lucas.

With all the sensors and crap, it could be so many things that it hurts my brain to even think about where to start. I've been having more fun with my Fox that has CIS basic. I can adjust the timing and it stays where I put it (not where the computer decides to randomly set it), the mixture is set my me, the idle is set by me. The only sensor is for the CSV. Something goes wrong and it's one of two parts. Just so much more pleasant. I'm even starting to like my diesel Mercedes, which is a colossal pain in the *** to work on. Runs though.

-Rog

AudiCoupeGT1986

Sorry to hear Rog.

When I eventually get around to starting my swap, I'll still definitely be using this thread as a major reference. It'll still be a while till I get there but I've been following this thread since you started and it was awesome to see the progression and the detailed information you provided.

Best of luck!

TEF1701

This may be a topic for another thread, but is there a way to downgrade to a CIS basic setup from the system that comes in cars like my 87.5 CGT? I've mentioned it before, but my other car is a 77 AMC Gremlin. What can I say, I love unique cars. Anywho, that car is stupid easy to work on. Fuel and spark. THAT'S IT!!! I guess I would just love a simpler setup in my Coupe.

Rogviler

Well, granted the car was CIS basic to begin with, but I replaced the fuel distributor with one from a Ur-Q in anticipation of adding a turbo. So you could do the same. You need a CIS setup that has the separate CPR (what people call a warm-up regulator for some reason) that normally bolts to the driver side of the engine.

I run my CPR un-powered and bolted to the radiator shroud in order to have carb-like tuning possible. I set it and it stays there (normally it changes fuel pressure based on being warmed by the engine). But you can tinker with it and see what works best. You can leave the electronic ignition as it is, since it's a pretty good system. I have points to deal with, but I'll be getting an ignition box at some point.

It may be possible to cripple the CIS-E system to operate the same way, but I've never dug into it.

It was really pretty simple to swap everything out. If you find any older 5-cylinder Audi (like '83 or earlier I believe) it'll have what you want. Just look for that CPR on the block with two braided fuel lines going to it and you'll know you're on the right track. I'll try to remember to take some pics.

-Rog

TEF1701

Thanks Rog. I love the car, but there are a few little gremlins (see what I did there) lurking in the engine. I just can't get it to idle really smooth. I haven't had a chance to do the smoke trick, so I'm sure I'll find a ton of leaks. I just like my engines to be simple.

westco4K

yesterday I drove out and took possession of this 4kq. lets just say city ordinances can be a real headache for us car people.

I would love to make it run and drive as is but time and colorado weather have not been kind too the bodywork. not to mention this thing had a very rough life before Rog ever got his hands on it, but not all is lost! the 10vt is still good and may find its way into another 4kq.

while the future is a little unclear at the moment, this car will be getting another lease on life. quite possibly as a swb quattro.