mar5den

Hi all I bought an audi coupe gt 1985 2.2 today and ive noticed a few issues with the car ive listed the faults below




Makes funny noise in reverse
there is a bin bag over the scuttle
engine dosent stay at normal temp gets to the middle then starts to go back down
The engine makes a ticking sound on start up and somtimes while driving it
there engine temp light flashes when the ignition is on
there is a few connectors under the glovebox the are just loose
Whats lights should come on when the ignition is on because I beleave that the owner who had it before me has either removed fuses or bulbs because the hand break light dosent show on the dash and only 3 lights show on the dash

Rogviler

Is it a whine? I'd call that normal. Haven't heard an Audi (or many other cars) that didn't do that. If another sound, please come up with your best onomatopoeia.

Do you mean the seagull from The Little Mermaid or a pail for carrying coal? If the former, please remove the bag before he suffocates. If the latter, I'd just remove the coal-transporting device altogether.

I would consider yourself lucky. Most of the B2 cars are constantly on the verge of overheating. Does it seem to be causing a problem? Could be something like the radiator fan is stuck on, I suppose. Or perhaps a broken thermostat.

These engines have a fair amount of lifter tick when first started, when they've sat awhile, or if they're low on oil. Totally normal. Another ticking sound can come from the vacuum booster on the side of the head when it goes bad. It can be removed completely with no ill effects. (It basically makes it so that if you were flooring it and for some reason using the brakes at the same time, the brakes would still have vacuum assist.)

Is this all the time, like when you're driving? If so, the most common reason is that the coolant level sensor is bad. Simply unplug the connector on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank and make sure you check the level regularly. Or get a new sensor.

I'll have to double check on the instrument lights. Not sure about the glove box wires, although I heard that before somewhere...

Sounds like a few things to investigate further, some not to worry about.

-Rog

mar5den

It makes a crackling sound in reverse
as for the scuttle theres no seagull and mermaid just a bin bag lol
also the heater is allways cold
And as for the flashimg light its only when the ignition is on

Rogviler

So what is a scuttle? Google was of no help, apparently.

The sound in reverse would depend on where it's coming from. If it's coming from the back it could be the drum brake adjusters. If the front then it could be a CV joint (I'd inspect the boots anyway).

Someone else will have to chime in about the instrument lights, as one of mine is without a battery and the other is a project that has some bad dash wiring.

-Rog

mar5den

Its a plasitic cover that is beneath the vents on the bonnet drains the water out and the sound is feom the front also tje daah ligbts dont work is it easy to remove ive checked fuses

Rogviler

I see... I've only heard it called a rain tray, so I learned something new. If there's a bag over it, it's likely cracked, as most of them are, which lets water into the climate control area and also where the speedometer cable goes through.

The instrument cluster comes out with just a couple of screws. First the cover and then the cluster itself. Helps to take the steering wheel off, but it's not necessary.

I'd definitely check the CV boots for cracks and also see if there's any grinding when you turn at full lock.

-Rog

mar5den

Thanks for that whats the best oil to as so many people have told me use a diffrent variety I was told because its an old car to use slighly thicker oil if thats the case what should I get

TEF1701

Mine ticks all the time when I first start it up or if I get around 1/2 quart low on oil.

As far as oil goes, you can search the forums for MANY MANY discussions on the topic. The general consensus I've read is Castrol GTX 20W/50. The key is regular oil, not synthetic. I first tried synthetic, and my lifters ticked like crazy. Plus the sythetic was slipping past the rings causing some lovely white smoke on startup. At first I was like, "holy crap it's like pouring molasses into my engine," but it has actually quieted down my car quite a bit. It makes the whole engine seem tighter, if that even makes any sense. However, I don't drive it if the winter temps drop below 20 degrees or so. Seems a bit too cold for the thick oil. Some switch to a standard 10W/30 or 10W/40 in the winter. Up to you. Anything lighter weight and the lifters will tick like crazy. I would say start with the 20/W50 and go down from there until you find the one that's just right.

mar5den

Thank you for the advice

mar5den

hi all I need some advice the drivers side cv joint needs replacing but it wont come off any advice would be great I dont want to remove the shaft but I will if I have to thanks in advance