OMP

Hi all.
I have what I guess general questions on some issues regarding my two 200`s ( I have an '89 MC1 Automatic with Stage 1 from QLCC ( 1.9 bar) and a European spec 200 20V).

Here I go:
- On the 200 10V : I have posted that I feel like a vibration coming from the engine starting at around 3800 rpm or so and it is just a slight vibration and an engine that seems to be lazy. On the lazyness part, I will be cheking my knock sensor torque ( I donīt think it has never been wrench torqued to be honest, so I donīt know how it is actually tighten). Car shows no fault codes, so everything should be OK. Anyway, the engine was rebuilt about 3 years ago and hasnīt been driven much. On the contrary actually. Thing is that when the engine was put in after the rebuilt, something that catched my attention ( and the mechanicīs) was the fact that the engine-transmission donīt go in a particular spot. It doesnīt have a hole for the mounts. I remember seen more like a guide where the engine could be moved ( I would say about an inch or maybe little bit less). I am thinking about this since maybe part of the vibration could ccome frm the fact that there is a misalignment somewhere that could cause that "vibration".....Any ideas? Was I drunk when I thought I saw those "guides"?

- On the 200 10V: What if I disconnect the knock sensor? Would this be retarding all the way the timing, kinda "safe" mode or something? Or would the car just be behaving with its timing advance BUT would not be retarding the timing when sensing some pinging?

- On the 200 20V: Where the door handles painted on the car color ? My 200 10V has the satin black ( not painted in car color) but my 200 20V has the door handles painted in the car color..........So, was this the set up for the 200V? I know the 200 10V IS how it came out of the factory because the car was bought almost new back in 1990, but I am not sure at all whether the 200 20V was like this or some PO just painted the entire thing.

- On the 200 10V: Maybe it has to do with the first issue posted above, but my swabar bushings have a significant play after just a few thousand milles ( maybe 5000 since there were changed by new ones. Car will vibrate when braking and it should come from there. But again, how come these bushings be worn just after a few thousand milles? Again, could "something" be misaligned so the swaybar makes much more pressure than it should? The car has never ( EVER) be in an accident, big or small, so frame is straight as new.

- On the 200 10V: I have read on SJM about the idle speed adjustment. First of all, Idle stands at a ( low) 600 rpm and my ISV Unit doesnīt have the input signal from the A/C to raise those rpmīs by the ISV. Wires were cut at some point in time and the car turns really slow when the A/C is ON, althoug it will never stall. Anyhow, Do you know what are the colors of the cables that are supposed to come from the A/C comppressor to the ISV control unit? What are the pins the signal must enter to to have the +9V coming out from the ISV UNIT to the ISV ( I believe this is how it works).
And on the idle speed, is there any simpler way to adjust idle speed. Mechanic does have a CO measuring machine which I believe is very useful for that. Is there any way to adjust idle with the fuel feeding plug on the fuel distributor and the air pass screw?

- On the 200 10v: Yesterday I took the car, and I have noticed ( it was not the first time) that hamering the pedal to the floor ( really, to the floor up to the kick down button) the car will not go over 1.2 Bar on the clock. However if I do ge up to 3/4 of travel on the gas pedal, the car will fly up to 2.0 Bar ( max I have seen).....So, why could this be? Ful full throttle will just not make it pass 1.2-1-4 but when driving normally and wanting to have power, it will build that turbo pressure pretty easily and fast).......Any thoughts?


Sorry for the long post
Thanks

Kneale Brownson

On the 20-valve. OEM color was satin black.